J LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.) 



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THE BIBLE IN THE LEVANT; 



OE THE 

\ 



LIFE AND LETTEBS OE THE 



REV. C. E RIGHTER, 



AGENT OF THE AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY IN 
THE LEVANT. 



By SAMUEL IREKEUS PEIME. 






NEW YORK: 

SHELDON & COMPANY. 

BOSTON: GOULD & LINCOLN. 



3VZ3^ 



' p 



WASHINGTON- 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by 

SHELDON & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 

Southern District of New York. 



DEDICATION, 



TO THE MOTHER 

WHO FREELY GAVE HER BELOVED SON 

TO THE SERVICE OF G-OD IN" A FOREIGN 

LAND 

AND DID NOT REGRET THE GIFT WHEN HE DIED 
FAR AWAY, 

®fjte Book is 3&z8$ut{uU% Enacrt&rir, 



PREFACE. 



Few words of preface are required for this unpretending 
volume. 

A man's life is not to be measured by the number of his 
years. It has been well said that some die old at thirty 
and others young at fourscore. The subject of this sketch 
was formed for high accomplishment, and to all human 
appearances was destined to do a great work in the service 
to which he was called. His early removal was a sad blow 
to the host of friends who were looking to his future with 
high hopes. But the thoughts of. Infinite wisdom are 
higher than ours. And while we bow with resignation to 
the will of Him who called our friend and brother so early 
to himself, we find a mournful satisfaction in preparing 
these memorials of one whose name and virtues will long 
be fragrant in the hearts of all who knew him. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

The Author's First Meeting with Eight er — General Cha- 
racter — Striking Features — A Sea Voyage with him, . 7 

CHAPTER II. 
Parentage, Birth, and Early Education — Conversion and 
Religious Exercises — Revival in School, . . .12 

CHAPTER III. 
Choosing a Profession — Struggles and Decision — College — 
Theological Seminary — Letter from Rev. George E. Hill 
— First Preaching, 18 

CHAPTER IV. 
Hindrances — Failure of his Eyes — Goes Abroad — Crosses 
the Ocean — First Impressions of England — The Conti- 
nent, 24 

CHAPTER V. 
Extracts from his Journals — Paris — Meetings with Chris- 
tian Friends — Switzerland — Chamouni and the Alps, . 29 

CHAPTER VI. 
Travels through Italy and Greece — Into Turkey — Syria and 
Egypt— Returns Home and is sent back as Agent of the 
American Bible Society, 42 

CHAPTER VII. 
Mission to the East, 41 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

PAGE 

Visit to the Crimea, 61 

CHAPTER IX. 
Bible Labors in the Crimea, 75 

CHAPTER X. 
Bible Labors in Turkey, 89 

CHAPTER XL 
Letters Home, 102 

CHAPTER XII. 
Visit to a Ruined City, ' . . 110 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Visit to Greece, 122 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Visit to Egypt, . . . 131 

CHAPTER XV. 
Visit to Palestine, 154 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Bethany and Bethlehem, 177 

CHAPTER XVII. 
Jordan and the Dead Sea, 191 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Erom Jerusalem to Damascus, 203 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Journey to Nineveh, 216 

CHAPTER XX. 
His Journal, . 246 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Last Illness and Death, . . . . . .297 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Tributes to his Memory, .310 



CHESTER N. EIGHTEE. 



CHAPTER L 

THE AUTHOR'S FIRST MEETING WITH RIGHTER — 
GENERAL CHARACTER — STRIKING FEATURES — 
A SEA VOYAGE WITH HIM. 

Six years ago, in the spring of 1853, the writer 
of these pages, a poor invalid, was lying on a pile 
of trunks at the end of a pier in the East River, 
waiting, with many others, for the steam tug that 
was to take him and them to a ship in the stream. 
"Worn out with long protracted sickness, em- 
barking without a single companion for a year of 
foreign travel, he was sadly despondent and half 
inclined to abandon the voyage. At this moment 
two young men were introduced to him ; both of 
them ministers of the gospel, both of them just 
about to embark for foreign travel, both of them 
intending to make the tour of Europe, and to 
journey into the East. One of these gentlemen 



8 TRAITS OF CHARACTER. 

was the Eev. George E. Hill, of Boston, the other 
was Chester Newell Eighter, the subject of this 
sketch. A mutual sympathy seemed instantane- 
ously to unite us. In a few moments the plans 
of the year were compared, and without any fur- 
ther concert or agreement, it fell out that we 
joined our fortunes, and together made the jour- 
ney, with scarcely any separations till we returned 
home, in the same vessel, in the spring of 1854. 

Eighter was a genial, warm-hearted, noble 
young man. A good scholar, a fluent speaker, 
ready in 'conversation, full of ardor, enthusiasm 
and energy, buoyant and hopeful, never doubting 
or afraid, never sick or weary, with exuberant 
spirits and inexhaustible powers of enjoying or 
suffering, he was just the companion one wants on 
land or sea, in desert or city, by night or day. 

His eyes had failed while he was pursuing his 
studies for the sacred ministry, and he had been 
wisely counselled to spend a year in relaxation 
and travel. On shipboard the fine points of his 
character were soon developed. A week at sea 
brings out the weaknesses as well as the strength 
of men. He was with me in all weathers, and in 
various lands and seas, in times to try the pa- 
tience, and the faith, and every virtue of the soul ; 
and during all the time he was with me, I never 
knew him to be other than a high-minded, honor- 
able, faithful, Christian gentleman and friend. 



ON THE SEA. 9 

When others were sea-sick, when every passen- 
ger on the steamer was stretched out in helpless 
distress, victims of that malady which everybody, 
except the victim, laughs at, but to which almost 
every one succumbs, Eighter would stride the 
deck, swinging his arms and rejoicing in the 
storm — fearless of danger, and strong in his ex- 
emption from the falling sickness to which all 
around him were a prey. This was a fair type 
and exhibition of his character. What was to 
be done, he was ready to do ; what was to be 
borne, he was ready to suffer. Prompt in his de- 
cisions, tenacious of his purposes, self-sacrificing 
and obliging, when the feelings of others were 
involved, he was the first in every movement to 
promote the general comfort of the company, the 
last to yield when difficulties were to be over- 
come. 

His principles of right and wrong were intelli- 
gently settled, and he had no occasion to be 
" making up his mind " as to the path of duty. 
The way was always plain, and he pressed straight 
forward in the fear of God, and without any fear 
of man. Religion was a well-spring of life and 
joy in his soul. In all places and times he was 
the same earnest, outspoken, uniform Christian ; 
never obtruding his opinions on those to whom 
they were not due, but never ashamed, afraid, or 
unable to give a reason for the hope that was in 



10 ASPIKATIONS. 

him. Yet lie was modest with, all his self-reli- 
ance, gentle with iron firmness, easily to be en- 
treated, while he was bold as a lion. 

With such a rare and beautiful mingling of 
elements in his character, I marked him out as a 
man who had a work to do for his age and the 
world. Often we lay on deck as we were travers- 
ing from land to land the Mediterranean Sea, 
and when the stars were looking down on us we 
would while away the hours with long and wan- 
dering talks of the future, and then I found that 
the aspirations of his soul were in harmony with 
my hopes and prophecies of his career. He was 
burning to he what I was sure he ivould be, if God 
had work for him on this earth. No matter what 
it was, if the mountains were to be brought down, 
or the wilderness to be reclaimed by human 
agency, he was ready to do what the Lord would 
have him do. And more ; he was anxious to be 
at work. I do not know that the fires of an 
earth-born, selfish ambition, a paltry spirit of self- 
glory, ever burned for a moment in his manly 
breast. He must have been ambitious — it was 
part of his nature. But it was a noble, bap- 
tized, holy ambition, to do something for God 
and mankind. He longed to see the world, to 
know it, to take the measure of it, to compass its 
wants, to study the ways and means to meet them, 
and> with a full consciousness of his own inherent 



A BROTHER. 11 

physical and mental adaptedness to labor, lie was 
willing to give himself as a servant, a soldier, a 
follower, or a leader, to be used as the Lord should 
appoint in the field of the world. 

This was the man with whom I became ac- 
quainted under circumstances of peculiar interest, 
and in a few days, from a stranger, he became a 
friend and brother beloved. He grew close to 
my heart. He was with me in times of trial and 
peril; in seasons of rich enjoyment; the wonders 
and glories of nature and art, in the course of a 
year's travel in Europe and the East, were shared 
together, and when he went out again into the 
foreign field to do a mighty work, and there died 
in the midst of his labors, I mourned his death 
as that of a brother-; and cried with David over 
Jonathan, " I am distressed for thee, my brother : 
very pleasant hast thou been unto me, thy love 
to me was wonderful." 

And this tribute to his memory is but a feeble 
memorial of one of the purest, noblest young men 
it was ever my joy to know. • 



CHAPTEE IL 

PARENTAGE, BIRTH, AND EARLY EDUCATION — 
CONVERSION AND RELIGIOUS EXERCISES — 
REVIVAL IN SCHOOL. 

He was born September 25, 1824, at Parsip- 
pany, in New Jersey. His estimable parents 
were among the most respectable people in the 
rich, agricultural region of Morris Countjr. His 
mother was eminently a devout woman, full of 
faith and prayer, and consecrating her children 
with all the ardor of a mother's love and the con- 
fidence of a firm belief in the promises, to the 
service of God. 

All the children — there were two daughters 
and four sons — had the best opportunities of 
early education, and one of the sons studied a 
profession, and is a successful lawyer in the city 
of Newark, N. J. 

Chester, in very early life, disclosed a fondness 
for books. Apt to learn, and ambitious of excel- 
ling, he made rapid attainments in learning. At 
the age of twelve he was sent from home to a 
classical school at Wantage, N. J., under the care 
of his uncle, Mr. E. A. Stiles, where he pursued 



THE REVIVAL. 13 

his studies with, great success, and was fitted for 
college. One of his cousins, who was in the 
same family, has furnished me with a sketch of 
the character and progress of the boy, and it is so 
like the man that I must copy the portrait here : 
"Even then, when he was only twelve years old, 
were largely developed that fearless assurance 
and determined purpose which distinguished him 
in after life, and formed him for action in so wide 
a field. After a few months' study here, the 
school was suspended; Chester returned home 
and remained there two years and a half, and 
when his uncle, Mr. Stiles, resumed his school 
again at Wantage, Chester joined him, and re- 
mained under his instruction until he was pre 
pared to enter college. 

" During the second year of this period of study, 
a series of religious meetings was held in the 
Clove Church, about a mile from the school, by 
the Eev. T. S. Ward. The pupils were allowed 
to attend the services, or to stay at home, as they 
preferred. Eighter was one of the few who 
attended them from the beginning regularly. 
The interest in the meetings increased. On the 
third evening all the teachers and pupils attended. 
The house was thronged, and the audience deeply 
solemn under the preaching of the word. Many 
were powerfully impressed by the truth and the 
Spirit. The next morning young Eighter went 

2 



14 COXVEESION. 

to his uncle with the great question ' What must 
I do to be saved ?' That night on retiring to his 
room, he found his brother, who was a teacher in 
the school, sitting at his table writing, and he ex- 
claimed, l O brother, how can you sit still and 
write while I am perishing in my sins?' His 
brother invited him to repent of his sins and turn 
to Christ with all his heart. He bade him kneel 
with him and give himself up to the Lord Jesus 
Christ for time and eternity. They knelt, and 
prayed together ; wrestled long and earnestly on 
their knees, till the awakened, anxious, convicted 
sinner submitted to God. Light broke in upon his 
soul. Peace was shed abroad in his heart. He 
arose a new creature in Christ Jesus. 

"The next morning as he entered the parlor 
where family worship was to be held, his counte- 
nance reflected the calmness and joy of his soul. 
His teacher and uncle said to him at once : 

" ' Chester, I trust you have found the Saviour.' 

" l Yes, uncle,' he replied, 'I have given myself 
away to be his for ever.' 

" The interest of the whole school in the subject 
of religion was so great, it was thought best to 
suspend the usual studies and hold a prayer meet- 
ing in the parlor during the forenoon. Nearly 
all the pupils attended. Young Eighter was 
called on to offer the first prayer. A mere boy 
of sixteen, in the midst of his companions, it 



THE HAYSTACK. 15 

might have been feared that he would hesitate 
when thus suddenly summoned to stand up as a 
Christian. But he was ready. With equal 
modesty and decision he rose and began with 
humble confession of sin, grateful acknowledg- 
ment of his joy and gratitude on account of sins 
forgiven, and then he prayed that all his associ- 
ates might come to Christ without delay and 
share in the blessings of salvation. His words 
were fluent, for he had ready command of lan- 
guage, and his prayer was heard with deep emo- 
tions by his companions, and, we may believe, in 
heaven also, for the work of grace went on and 
others were brought in. With them he organized 
a prayer meeting, which was held daily, at noon, 
behind a haystack, in the midst of the winter 
season. If the daily noon prayer meetings were 
held earlier than this, I have not seen any account 
of them. These boys kept them up, with great 
interest, regardless of the weather ; their young 
hearts being warm and their petitions earnest for 
more and more of the Holy Spirit. This was the 
beginning of our friend's Christian life. In March 
of the same year, 1841, with thirty others, he 
made a public profession of religion, uniting with 
\ the Clove 7 church, in that neighborhood. Now 
he was a professed follower of Christ, a soldier of 
the cross, young but strong in the Lord. His 
face was set toward heaven, and so was his heart. 



16 HIS EXAMPLE. 

" Grace begun in his soul wrought a great and 
decided change. With the resolute will and 
energy, which I have mentioned, he had also an 
irritable temper, and these traits of character 
made him often overbearing. He had been the 
leader in the sports of the school, and many had 
found him too fond of having his own way. 
But it is the testimony of those who knew him 
then, that from the time he became a child of 
God, he was indeed a new creature. Patient 
perseverance took the place of fitful haste, deci- 
sion in the right succeeded to a desire to have 
things to suit himself. Moral courage was soon 
revealed in his unbending opposition to all that 
was wrong in the school, even when he was com- 
pelled to stand alone. His example was thus a 
powerful aid in the discipline of the school, and 
his influence was felt in-doors and out, upon all 
who were with him. The secret of this great 
change, and the rapid progress of grace in his 
soul, was his invariable habit of prayer. Without 
ostentation, he led a life of constant communion 
with God; seeking, day by day, the help he 
needed to overcome indwelling sin, get the victory 
over himself, and to be qualified for the service 
of the Saviour. 

"During a school vacation, he was at home. His 
father was not a professor of religion, but Chester 
was encouraged to conduct family worship, which 



HIS PEINCIPLE. 17 

lie did with readiness. One morning he had 
made arrangements with a friend for an excursion 
that required them to make an early start. The 
horses were at the door. His friend was impa- 
tient, and reminded him that his hurry seemed to 
be oyer, asking him why he delayed. Eighter 
simply remarked that the family were not quite 
ready for prayers, and he would start as soon as 
they had had morning worship. This friend was 
a neglecter of religion, and never had been in the 
habit of attending 'family pikers,' but without 
saying a word, he took his seat and remained, 
apparently interested in the service. 

" Such an incident serves to show the early de- 
cision which Eighter had made to be prompt and 
faithful in the performance of Christian duty, and 
the habit thus formed grew with him till it be- 
came a part of his sanctified nature, an abiding 
principle which governed him at home and 
abroad, on land and sea. He was a praying 
youth and a praying man. He obtained strength 
in prayer. Great trials and strong conflicts were 
before him. Few men have been so soon called 
to make such sacrifices as he made and to endure 
such temptations, and if he had not been strong 
with God, the world and the flesh would have 
prevailed. Then this record had never been 
made." 



2* 



CHAPTEE III. 

CHOOSING A PROFESSION — STRUGGLES AND DE- 
CISION — COLLEGE — THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY — 
LETTER FROM REY. GEORGE E. HILL — FIRST 
PREACHING. 

Eighter was now at a point in Iris history 
where the choice of a profession or pursuit must 
be made. In the ardor of his first love for Christ 
and his cause, we would expect him to look at 
the ministry as his field, and that he would throw 
himself, heart and soul, into the work of prepara- 
tion for that high and holy calling. Why should 
he not ? 

There were two reasons, at least, that he must 
meet and answer before he could decide the ques- 
tion that now pressed itself home on his con- 
science. 

He was naturally of a jovial disposition. Fond 
of fun and frolic when a hoy, he did not lose his 
love for innocent amusements when he forsook 
all that he knew were sinful. This was now in 
his way when he thought of entering the hal- 
lowed walks of the ministry. His fondness for 
pleasantry might degenerate into levity. Cer- 



A GREAT QUESTION. 19 

tainly he was now far from having that sobriety 
of manner which befits the clerical profession. 
If he should become a minister, and then disho- 
nor the name and office, by his inconsistent de- 
portment, to the injury of the cause and the ruin 
of souls, it were better that he had never been 
born, or that he had turned the current of his life 
into some channel where his example would be 
less conspicuous, and so less injurious. But this 
was not a fatal objection. He had found, by his 
own experience in the divine life, that grace could 
overcome nature, and his own good sense assured 
him that cheerfulness was far more desirable than 
austerity in the minister of the gospel. He was 
willing to trust God for help to subdue all that 
was positively wrong. While he would be a 
joyful Christian, he did not wish to appear to be 
anything else. This objection was, therefore, laid 
aside, but there was one more serious. 

The father of Eighter, if a Christian, was re- 
served in regard to his feelings, and made no 
profession, even to his nearest friends, of being 
interested, personally, in religion. Possessed of 
an ample property, and being largely engaged 
in business, he was a man of the world. Safe 
in his judgments, but enterprising and success- 
ful, he had several distinct branches of busi- 
ness, agricultural, mercantile, and manufacturing, 
in which he was engaged, with the aid of his 



20 HIS FATHEK. 

sons. It was against Iris wishes that his son, 
Chester, began to turn his thoughts toward the 
ministry. It would be far more to the father's 
taste if the son would enter into business with 
him. It was easy for Mr. Eighter to set before 
his son inducements of a worldly nature, that 
would compel him to pause, and think twice and 
long, before he threw them aside, as unworthy 
of his pursuit and love, Eighter has told me 
that this was a temptation and trial. While he 
justly regarded the gospel ministry as the wide 
field for usefulness that he burned to enter, he 
was not ignorant that he must sacrifice the pros- 
pect of wealth and future ease. But the trial 
was greater when he saw his father • advancing in 
years, and earnestly anxious to secure him in 
such pursuits as would make his son the compa- 
nion find comfort of his old age. To become a 
minister he must leave houses and lands, father 
and mother, for Christ's sake. This was the 
alternative. He has assured me that he was 
able without much of a struggle to forego the 
attractions of the world, but he desired greatly to 
please his father, and his mind was long in the 
balances of doubt as to what was duty in these 
circumstances. But the Lord was calling him, 
and the call proved to be irresistible. To his 
young and buoyant spirit no pleasure on earth 
was more alluring than the joy of publishing glad 



IN COLLEGE. 21 

tidings of salvation. No wealth was more pre- 
cious in his sight than the unsearchable riches of 
Christ, which one who called himself less than 
the least of all saints was permitted, to preach to 
perishing men. And when he saw in the gospel 
that, in this very connexion, he was told by his 
Master to leave father and mother for the sake of 
the work to which he was called, he resolved in 
the dew of his youth, to give himself to the minis- 
try of reconciliation. 

With this purpose once formed, he went for- 
ward steadily to realize the desires of his soul. 

In the fall of 1842 he entered Yale College, 
and after completing his course of study there 
and graduating with honor, he pursued the study 
of theology at New Haven and Andover. One 
of his classmates in College, who was afterwards 
an intimate friend, and our companion in travel, 
the Eev. George E. Hill, has given me a few 
memoranda of his literary career, which I here 
employ. 

"He entered college with high resolutions to 
lead a life of devotion to study, and to such disci- 
pline of heart as would prepare him for the pro- 
fession which he sought. He was regarded by 
his associates as exceedingly reserved and diffi- 
dent. His reputation was that of a diligent 
student, rather than a social companion, and 
rarely did he mingle in the sports of college life. 



22 me. hill's letter. 

With, his fine talents and this exemplary dili- 
gence, it was a matter of course that his standing 
as a scholar was high. Modest and retiring, but 
always a gentleman in his bearing and address, 
he was universally respected and esteemed. In- 
deed I never knew that he had an enemy. 

"We were together again in the closing year 
of our theological studies, and then for the first 
time I began really to know the value of our 
friend. He was still the same diligent student, 
but his soul was now glowing with a warm 
ambition to be useful in the service of Christ. 
His former reserve had melted away. He was 
ready to speak for his Master, and earnestly en- 
gaged in winning souls for him. This strong 
desire was seen and felt in his labors in a Bible 
Class connected with the Centre Church, New 
Haven. 

"I well remember too, the ardor with which 
he entered upon our first preaching enterprise, in 
the little brick school-house at Hampden, five 
miles east of the city. Here we held religious 
service every Sabbath evening, in the winter's 
cold, but we were warm for our hearts burned 
within us, as we walked by the way. It was 
then and there, in speaking for the first time as 
an ambassador of Christ to his fellow-men, that 
his tongue was really loosed, and his whole soul 
glowed in his earnest face as he besought men to 



HIS CHARACTER. 23 

be reconciled to God. How often on the vessel's 
deck, and in strange lands beyond the sea, as we 
have sung together those familiar songs of Zion, 
has he spoken of the meetings in the brick school- 
house, as among the happiest memories of his 
student life. 

" Of the subsequent character and career of our 
friend and brother I have no need to write to 
you, for you knew him afterward, even better 
than I. But his uniform benevolence, his un- 
selfishness, his tender regard for the interests and 
the feelings of others ; his unaffected modesty, 
coupled with a manly heroism that despised dan- 
ger and never felt fear ; his fervent and con- 
sistent piety ; his powers of endurance and his 
willingness to do and to suffer in the service of 
his Master, all this and more you know, and will 
portray, if you put your pen to the delightful 
work of perpetuating the memory of our beloved 
Bighter." 



CHAPTER IV. 

HINDRANCES — FAILURE OF HIS EYES — GOES 
ABROAD — CROSSES THE OCEAN — FIRST IMPRES- 
SIONS OF ENGLAND — THE CONTINENT. 

During the latter part of his course of theo- 
logical study, Righter was afflicted with weakness 
of his eyes. The usual remedies were resorted 
to, and temporary repose was tried without benefit. 
He was advised to spend a year or two in foreign 
travel, that entire cessation from study for such a 
length of time might give his eyes a fair opportu- 
nity to recuperate. Such a prescription was not 
disagreeable to the patient. It fell in with his 
own predilections, and finding in his friend Hill, 
whose letter has just been given, a congenial 
companion, he made arrangements at once for a 
journey into foreign lands. 

His journals during this tour were kept with 
great regularity, and a daily record is made of 
every event of interest that occurred, every place 
that he visited, every object that he studied, every 
notable person that he met. But these records 
are the briefest possible — often mere catchwords ; 
for the use of his eyes, even to make the entries 



going- away. 25 

in his diary, was a trial to which, he was afraid to 
subject them. He designed, if it were right for 
him to do so, to correspond with some newspaper 
while he was abroad, but after a few attempts at 
writing he was obliged to desist, and confine him- 
self to short notes in his journals, and occasional 
letters to his friends. These manuscript records 
of travel, going over the same ground that I tra- 
versed with him, are now lying around me, and 
they awaken a thousand pleasing recollections, as 
I turn over the pages and find my own name so 
often among the incidents of that varied year. 
His parting with his parents at the wharf, with 
other friends who went with us down the bay, 
his feelings in view of the separation and hopes 
of the future are hinted at in terms that are easily 
intelligible to the eye of affection, and disclose 
the warmth of his love. The voyage is to him a 
succession of joyous days and charming nights. 
In the morning he is getting up athletic sports 
for exercise : in the afternoon he is reading or 
talking French with the ladies : in the evening 
some literary exercise is on hand for the enter- 
tainment of the passengers. Sabbath comes, and 
he is holding religious meetings with the seamen. 
Others are stricken down with sea-sickness, and 
I find that he mentions me as the first victim, 
while he flatters himself that he will escape alto- 
gether. He does not. A slight attack knocks 



26 AT SEA. 

him over, and teaches him that he is not more 
than human. But he was speedily on his feet 
again, and that was the last of his maritime dis- 
asters. All the way over the sea he was rejoic- 
ing in the beauty, the grandeur, and glory of 
the ocean. In the storms he was confident, and 
delighted to fix himself in the bows of the ship 
that he might see and feel the power and majesty 
of the waves. And if he had been compelled to 
say with the Psalmist, " All thy billows have 
gone over me," I think he would have been 
calm and trusting, for he knew that in the utter- 
most part of the sea the hand of the Lord would 
lead and uphold him. He was not anxious to 
reach the shores of Europe. Our voyage in a 
packet-ship, Capt. Hovey, with a pleasant cabin- 
ful of passengers, was made in sixteen da3 r s, and 
Eighter was one of many who would have been 
glad to extend it a week longer. 

On landing at Portsmouth, on Sabbath morn- 
ing, he walked to the Parish Church of St. Thomas, 
where we united in thanksgiving to Almighty 
God for his care over us while on the deep. 
The next day he was wandering over the Isle of 
Wight. At Eyde he calls on the Eev. Dr. Fer- 
guson with whom he is greatly pleased, and the 
gratification would seem to have been mutual, for 
he acknowledges the gift of a volume of sermons 
from the Dr. as a token of his regard. He ad- 



ENGLAND. 27 

mires the lovely scenery through, which he passes ; 
the smooth roads, the hedges and flowers, and 
green fields, a vision of rural culture and wide- 
spread taste in the order of nature, which he had 
never enjoyed before. The ancient Carisbrooke 
Castle impresses him deeply with its walls and 
battlements, its remarkable well, its romantic his- 
tory. But even more does his spirit find refresh- 
ment and delight in a pilgrimage to the grave of 
the Dairyman's Daughter in Areton Church-yard. 
He notes the tolling of the bell and the funeral 
procession that marked his visit there. He gath- 
ers flowers from among the tombs to send to 
friends at home; for his heart was with them 
always, and when enjoying things abroad the 
most, he was always thinking of ways and means 
to share it with those far away. 

He hastens to London and records his "first 
impressions " of the great city. Lost in its vast- 
ness, he seems, from his brief notes, to be over- 
whelmed with a sense of the extent and power of 
the great metropolis, so that it required time to 
adjust his mind to the new world by which he 
was surrounded. But he was soon studying it 
systematically and thoroughly, visiting its great 
benevolent institutions, finding access to public 
men, enjoying the private hospitalities of many 
kind friends whom he found or made. 

He pursued his journey to France and Swit- 



28 ENJOYMENT. 

zerland, enjoying everything with a heartiness 
refreshing to his companions, and making notes 
in his journal, giving glimpses of his own charac- 
ter that will present him pleasingly tG the reader. 
We will make a few extracts from his note books 
which are before us, to the number of a dozen or 
more. 



29 



CHAPTEE V. 

EXTRACTS FROM HIS JOURNALS — PARIS — MEET- 
INGS WITH CHRISTIAN FRIENDS — SWITZERLAND 
— CHAMOUNI AND THE ALPS. 

FROM MR. RTGHTER'S JOURNAL. 

Sunday, June 10th, 1853. — In the afternoon 
we receive an invitation to attend a little prayer 
meeting of Americans at the house of a good lady 
resident here, and we hail the opportunity with 
joy; we go, and find a delightful little gathering 
and union of Christian hearts there, and it indeed 
seems like the house of God and the gate of 
heaven to our souls. It is proposed, as the need 
is peculiarly felt by those present, to make an 
effort to establish an American Church in Paris, 
where service will be performed for their benefit 
especially ; which shall be attractive to them, and 
will make them feel at home in their church in a 
strange land. It meets the approbation and ear- 
nest prayer of all present, and I trust may result 
through the effort and prayer of that little meet- 
ing in Rue d 7 Astorq. In the evening we hear 
Mr. Bridel in his neat little evangelical chapel. 
The tones of his voice are very touching, and 

3* 



30 HIS JOURNAL. 

much effect is produced on the audience. The 
singing in French, by the congregation, is very 
delightful indeed to us who have been so long 
from heart-felt devotional worship. 

Monday, June 11th. — In the evening we 
attend another meeting to consult in reference to 
the expediency of establishing an American 
Church in Paris. The need is felt deeply by all 
present. Rev. Mr. Bridel, the protestant evan- 
gelical French minister in the city, gives an affect- 
ing account of the cases in which young men 
from America, entire strangers, have written to 
him in times of sickness, to come and visit them. 
And how far more grateful and useful to them in 
such cases, would be an American Christian 
brother from their own native land. He would 
be the medium, also, between the Americans and 
French, the religious ambassador here. There 
are two hundred American families resident here, 
and five hundred or two thousand persons con- 
stantly here for business or pleasure. All these 
might be attracted to a house of God. I trust the 
movement will meet with a cordial response from 
America. 

Wednesday, July 27th, 1853. — At length we 
arrive in the lovely vale of Chamouni with the 
summit of Mont Blanc before us, and the mer 
de glace and mountain peaks around. It is a 
lovely spot in a clear summer evening, as the last 



CHAMOUNI. 31 

rays of the setting sun are lingering on the 
monarch of mountains rolled in clouds with a dia- 
dem of snow circling his brow. 

In the evening we go out to take a view around 
from the church steps near by, and here we fully 
realize the poetry, and yet the truthfulness of 
Coleridge's hymn written at Chamouni. The air 
is clear and cloudless now, a light is shining mid- 
way up the mountain ; the fire of a party who are 
making the ascent, and have encamped there for the 
night, and Jupiter, bright and beautiful, is shining 
just above the summit. It is indeed a most sub- 
lime view. We gaze and admire for a time, then 
return to our hotel, engage our guides and mules, 
and make all our arrangements for the ascent of 
the Jardin on the morrow. 

Thuksday, July 28th. — The morning breaks 
bright and clear. We rise at six and mount our 
mules provided with guides, provisions, thick 
shoes, Alpine stock, green vails, spectacles, and 
thick coats, for the journey to the Jardin. We 
cross the green meadow, the Arve, and ascend 
the mountain side. A party of ladies are before 
us winding their way up the mountain side, a 
picturesque view. We soon overtake and pass 
them. Then we have a party above, and these 
far below, in connexion with the valley beneath, 
the green mountains far above, the lofty range on 
the opposite side, the silver-threaded cascade 



32 THE JAKDIN. 

winding adown it, the mer de glace, the swift run- 
ning Arveiron at its base, all form a panoramic 
view, the most sublime and beautiful. "We cross 
frequent Alpine torrents and pass fountains 
gushing from the mountain side. At one a com- 
pany of Swiss girls tempt us with water and re- 
freshments for sale. We take a hasty draught, 
and mount up, until at length in three hours we 
reach the Montanvert, the best point for viewing 
the mer de glace, and the surrounding scenery. 
Here we take a little wine, leave our trusty mules, 
and commence the ascent to the Jardin on foot. 
We pass along the steep mountain side, clinging 
with our hands and pointing our pike, where a 
single slip would precipitate us hundreds of feet 
into the chasm below. Yet so great is our ex- 
citement and courage for the moment, and, more- 
over, so faithful are our guides that we have not 
the least sense of danger. Now we reach the oner 
de glace, & sea of frozen waves, with deep crevasses , 
and gorges, worn by the melting snow, and water- 
falls rushing down the mountain side. This 
seems, indeed, frightful, accompanied with the 
roar of the water far below, the fall of the 
rocks, and the avalanches from the peaks on 
-either side. Yet we advance, leaping the chasms, 
and guarding against the covert pitfalls till 
we have crossed a portion of this frozen sea and 
reached an intermediate point of rocks and 



GLACIERS. 33 

stones, borne down by the winter's avalanche. 
We look back and are amazed at the dangers we 
have passed, yet, there are still more before us. 
The view is now grand indeed; the summits 
around are covered with snow; numbers shoot 
up far into the sky of solid rock — massive, and 
of purple hue, while one just before us, is clad 
with green grass and blooming flowers. We 
strengthen ourselves by a draught of cool ice- 
water, and advance over a still more dangerous 
path, till we reach the base of this peak, two hun- 
dred feet high. Here the sun shines in the rari- 
fied air with scorching heat. We put on our 
green veils and spectacles, and begin the toilsome 
ascent. So bracing and exhilarating has been the 
air thus far, that we scarcely feel fatigued ; but 
we have now passed from winter to midsummer 
heat, and begin to feel quite exhausted, and we 
sit down here among the violets and Alpine roses, 
and refresh ourselves with the beautiful view of 
summer and winter, side by side, and rocky- 
snow-capped grandeur all around — perhaps the 
most impressive of all, the sea of glaring ice 
spread out in front. We toil up this steep ascent, 
cross another belt of snow and ice, and at length, 
reach the Jardin — a beautiful little oasis of green 
grass and flowers, amid a desert of rocks and 
snow around. A stream of cool water gushes 
from the rocks, and flows through for the refresh- 



34 CLIMBING. 

ment of the weary traveller, and the sun shines 
here with warmest ray. We find a lady has 
reached here before us, and is beautifully basking 
in the sunshine — (where will not enthusiastic wo- 
man go ?) We pay our compliments to the fair- 
lady, then bestow ourselves on the grass for rest, 
refreshment, and enjoyment of the scene. How 
excellent we relish our cold food — ham and wine • 
but the panoramic scene spread out around must 
not be lost ; we must pluck some flowers, as sou- 
venirs of the place and day, and we cannot re- 
main here but a half hour, yet we have been 
walking five hours in succession, over snow and 
ice ; clambering rocks and climbing the mountain 
peaks, and we throw ourselves down upon the 
rock and enjoy a few moments of refreshing sleep. 
Now we begin our return — three hours again over 
the same dangerous path, to Montanvert. The 
day is clear and almost cloudless, and we enjoy the 
most perfect view of the sublime scenery, all the 
way in clear sunlight. Frequent rocks and ava- 
lanches are falling and roaring around us, to give 
effect to all, and we return unharmed, through 
the guidance and protection of our God, to the 
mountain where our mules are waiting to take us 
again to Chamouni. We refresh ourselves again 
with a cup of milk, and begin the descent. This 
seems more dangerous than all (though our mules 
are most trusty), for a single step would plunge 



GETTING DOWN. 35 

us down a steep precipice and dash ns to pieces ; 
and the path is steep, jagged, and winding zig- 
zag down, yet we are so excited with the scene 
and situation, that we do not fear the danger be- 
fore us. How beautiful the green valley of grass, 
and grain, and trees, stretches below, as the sun- 
light falls upon it ; how the last rays of the set- 
ting sun play upon yonder summits, till at last 
they have gone from all save Mont Blanc — still 
they bathe the monarch's brow with purple and 
gold, and finally are gone from view. The whole 
view seems now more picturesque than ever. 
The water courses of the avalanches above, now 
clothed with green, the meadow, the silver cas- 
cades, the mountain peaks, the mer de glace — all 
in the mellow light of sunset, are surpassingly 
beautiful. 

At length we safely reached our hotel at Cha- 
mouni, after fourteen hours of climbing up and 
down on foot and on mules — feeling that we had 
never enjoyed such a day before, and full of gra- 
titude to our God that he has brought ns thus 
happily to its close. 

Though the sun has been intensely hot, and the 
reflection from the ice and snow very great, yet 
our green vails have protected us almost entirely 
from sunburn and blister, so frequent and so dis- 
tressing in such cases — let me recommend it to 
all. Thus passed a most memorable day of my 



36 COL DE BALME. 

life, in ascending the Alps to the " Garden of 
Flowers, 77 and returning to the vale of Chamouni. 
A refreshing supper, a warm bath, and bathing 
also the face and feet with cream and brandy, 
prepared us for a good night's rest. 

Saturday, 30. — The morning dawns clear, 
and betokens a fair day for the mountains. We 
mount our mules at an early hour for Chamou- 
ni, a ride of eight hours across a difficult pass. 
As we pass through the valley we meet pea- 
sant girls riding " stride their mules," at full trot, 
with morning provisions for the village. "We 
choose the most difficult pass of the Col de Balme 
for the benefit of, by far, the finest views, in a 
clear day. We mount up the mountain side four 
hours, passing many cascades, mountain torrents 
and courses of the winter avalanche by the way ; 
also villages where the peasants live in some 
sunny spot on the mountain side. Here they 
cultivate their little patches of grain and pota- 
toes, and grass for themselves and cows, in store 
for winter, while they drive their cattle far up in 
summer to pasture, ^he scene of the herds on 
the hill-side, and the tinkling of a hundred bells 
as we pass along, is most delightful. At length 
we reach the top, where is a comfortable house 
of refreshment for the traveller. Here the finest 
view of Mont Blanc and the vale of Chamouni 
is obtained, and we realize, as never before, the 



MONT BLANC. 37 

majesty of this monarch of mountains, and still 
more of Him who made this mount glorious as 
the sun, clothed him with rainbows, and spread gar- 
lands at his feet of loveliest hue. We invert our 
faces as we have done before, and it changes all into 
a fancy Alpine scene ; we recommend the experi- 
ment to all. Here, also, the coileau alone wings 
his flight above the clouds. But the air blows 
cold and chilly from Mont Blanc and the snow 
around, and I dismount my mule, and descend on 
foot. The scenery is grand and beautiful — of 
Alpine summits pinnacled in clouds above and 
below me, and the mule path I am to follow, wind- 
ing far through the valley. I am above the limit 
of trees or vegetation, save two months in sum- 
mer. I pass a little chalet where the shepherds 
keep their cattle, and make abundance of cheese 
and butter in the summer months and pass a 
pleasant word with them. The Swiss peasantry 
are most sociable and polite to strangers, always 
bidding you good morning, and giving civil 
answers to your questions. 

I gather flowers as I descend ; the number, and 
variety, and beauty of these Alpine flowers, grow- 
ing wild upon the mountain side, is almost beyond 
conception. I find two little kids sleeping in my 
path ; I approach them gently, and caress them, 
and they return the attention as kindly as if I 
were their guardian friend. How magnificent 

4 



38 THE SWISS. 

the view in this clear full sunlight, amid these 
crags, and peaks, and flowers, and waterfalls, as I 
descend alone, in advance of my party, the zigzag 
path down the mountain. I had experienced such 
emotions of sublimity, and power, and grandeur, 
as I have never felt before. 

In two hours I reach the base, and rest at a 
sweet little cottage in the valley, for my friends 
to overtake me. The family soon gather around 
me — father, mother, daughters, children and all. 
I tell them I am from America, and invite them to 
sing a Swiss song. To this one readily consents, 
and the music is most beautiful in the open air, 
and in the magnificence and beauty of nature 
around me. A little girl brings me flowers, and 
they set out fresh strawberries, cream, and wine, 
for my refreshment; and under these circum- 
stances I appreciate and enjoy the view of the 
valley, cascades, clouds, sky, and mountain gran- 
deur, as I had not done before. How much 
the presence of human nature, however humble, 
adds to the beauty of nature herself, however 
grand. 

My friends soon came upon their mules, and I 
join the party, bidding farewell to the pretty little 
Swiss demoiselle with twinkling eyes, with whom 
I had formed a surprisingly romantic glancing 
acquaintance in so short a time. We ascend two 
hours, and descend two hours more, amid the most 



GOITRE. 39 

sublime of scenery; viewing the valley of the 
Ehone, the road of the Simplon, and the vale of 
Martigny, lying below us ; and at six in the even- 
ing reach our hotel, quite satisfied with the ro- 
mance of mule riding, for the present. But this 
is a low alluvial valley, filled with stagnant water ? 
and infested with malaria and damp ; and all the 
women as well as many of the men, have the 
goitre— a large conical or circular swelling in the 
throat, six or eight inches in circumference ; num- 
bers also have the fever and ague. It is the hot- 
bed of disease ; we cannot think of spending the 
Sabbath here. "We take a little refreshment of 
strawberries and cream, and engage a voiture for 
the baths of Larey, two hours and a half distant. 
Little girls meet us at every turn, with flowers, 
cherries and strawberries for sale ; the women and 
peasants are bringing home upon their heads large 
bundles of hay and grain from the mountains ; they 
are too poor to keep mules or donkeys, and they 
carry everything, wood and all, upon their heads, 
most enormous loads. The air blows damp and 
pestilential through the valley, yet we must open 
our carriage windows to see this beautiful cascade, 
falling hundreds of feet from the solid rock. How 
splendid is the white dashing spray in the evening 
light ! We ride on, and in one hour reach the 
baths of Larey; here a worthy host and good 
hotel receive us for the Sabbath. The evening 



40 SABBATH. 

scenery is beautiful; of a rocky amphitheatre 
around and a quiet valley below, while the tur- 
bid Ehone roars swiftly through. Many ladies 
appear in front to greet our arrival. It is a 
French watering-place, and a party of Americans 
are quite a novelty here. We, however, take a 
mineral bath and bestow ourselves to bed, much 
fatigued by the mule and foot mountain travel of 
'the day. 

Sunday, 31. — The morning breaks again, clear 
and balmy ; it is the Sabbath and our hearts in 
unison with nature around, join in praise to God 
for this sweet secluded Sabbath in a vale of Swit- 
zerland. The whole scenery around seems in har- 
mony with the day ; the sky is more pure, and the 
clouds float more gently on the Sabbath, and I 
read my Bible with more spirit and unction than 
since I left the shores of America. Service is 
held in French, in the saloon of the hotel. It is 
evangelical and devotional, and much we enjoy it. 
The singing is touching to the Christian heart. 

After service we sang several of our American 
hymns. After dinner I walk out alone, and enjoy 
the beauty of the scene and hold communion with 
God. It is a most lovely Sabbath to me ; the 
clouds resting far down the mountain sides, and 
clinging round the summits, or floating high above 
all, are beautiful indeed. 

In the evening we have service in the private 



SERVICE. 41 

parlor of Mons. Deprezenski, and afterwards have 
an American service by ourselves, apart, and 
much enjoy the Sabbath in spiritual devotion. In 
the afternoon I walk up to a little summer house, 
and there hold fellowship with nature and Grod in 
his sublimest goings forth. 



4* 



CHAPTER VI. 

TRAVELS THROUGH ITALY AND GREECE — INTO 
TURKEY — SYRIA AND EGYPT — RETURNS HOME 
AND IS SENT BACK AS AGENT OF THE AMERICAN 
BIBLE SOCIETY. 

It would be more than pleasant to me to follow 
him, or rather to go again with my friend through, 
the remainder of this year's journey, revisiting 
the scenes that had such a charm for him, and are 
now to me invested with a sacred interest associ- 
ated as they are with the memory of one who has 
" passed into the skies." Hand in hand we visited 
Genoa and Turin, and Milan, whose Cathedral 
Eighter admired more than any building he saw 
in Europe ; and he climbed to its roof before sun- 
rise to see the first glory of the morning break on 
the distant mountain tops ; and Venice where he 
was in a dream of delight in the silent streets and 
decaying palaces of that mysterious city; and 
Florence, in whose galleries of art we studied day 
after day, and at night enjoyed the society of 
friends from our own land; and Borne, once 
called the Eternal city, now the city of the Past; 
and Naples and its environs — the sepulchres of 



IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 43 

cities. And here we took ship again and touched 
at Malta, and then passed into Greece and climbed 
the Acropolis at Athens, and sojourned with Drs. 
King and Hill, and their families, and the Buels and 
the Arnolds, devoted Baptist missionaries there ; 
and then we passed across the Archipelago and 
touched at Smyrna, and then went up the Helles- 
pont into the Sea of Marmora, and visited the great 
city of the Orient, on the Golden Horn and the Bos- 
phorus. What impressions this visit made upon 
him I would give in his own words, but his jour- 
nals, during this tour, were never written up, and 
although voluminous, they are not complete. 
The sentences are imperfect and mere catchwords 
often used that were sufficiently suggestive to 
himself, but quite unintelligible to others. His 
visits among the families of the American mis- 
sionaries in and around the city were delightful. 
He rejoiced in their work, and his heart was burn- 
ing to be engaged in the same blessed labor. 

One morning during our stay in Constantinople 
we were visiting the Bible House, where the Holy 
Scriptures, in fifteen or twenty different languages, 
are kept for sale. Eighter and Hill were the com- 
panions of my walk this morning. While we 
were in the store, two Armenians, native preachers, 
came in and made a formal appeal to my two 
young friends, to remain in Constantinople and 
devote themselves to the Missionary cause. Or, 



44 A SUDDEN CALL. 

if they could not now remain they were implored 
to take the subject into serious consideration, and 
if possible to revisit the East and spend- their lives 
in this work. They received this appeal with 
much emotion. It was an unexpected and extra- 
ordinary call. It was not easy to respond to it at 
once, but they thought of it long and earnestly, 
and often recurred to it as one of the most inter- 
esting incidents in the East. It was not long 
after this, before Eighter, obedient to clear mani- 
festations of his duty, was on his way back again 
from his native country, to distribute the Word 
of God among the Armenians and Moslems, of the 
Levant. The coincidence is striking, that the 
call was first given to him in the Bible House, 
and in the specific work of Bible distribution he 
returned to Constantinople and laid down his life 
in Asia Minor. 

We shall be with him here again and will not 
linger now. He passed on by steamer to Beyrut, 
and thence by land to Sidon, Tyre, Nazarethy and 
down to Jaffa. The unsettled state of the country 
rendering it unsafe to travel in the interior, we 
sailed from Jaffa to Alexandria, visited Cairo and 
the Pyramids, and then came home by way of 
Malta, Marseilles, Paris, London, and Liverpool. 

Just one year had been spent in this journey. 
The great benefit to his eyes, and decided mental 
improvement he had received from the year of 



THE BIBLE CALL. 45 

travel, gave zest and interest to the labors on 
which he was determined to enter. He would at 
once seek, a pastoral settlement, and give himself 
wholly to the work. 

The American Bible Society had for some time 
past been looking out for the man to take the 
place that had been so filled with, so much effi- 
ciency and ability by the Eev. Simeon H. Cal- 
houn, its agent in the Levant. Attention was 
drawn to the two young gentlemen who had 
just returned from the East, and had made them- 
selves well acquainted with, the field. There was 
work for both of them, and the subject was laid 
before them. Mr. Hill had already made up his 
mind to enter a field of labor at home, and he is 
now the faithful and able pastor of a church in 
Sheffield, Massachusetts. 

Mr. Eighter was urged to take the office and 
return at once to the Levant. There was but one 
objection that seemed to him insuperable — and 
that was his filial desire to remain and comfort 
his parents, now far advanced in life. He visited 
me in the country, and laid the whole case in my 
hands, begging me to tell him what was his duty 
in the premises, and declaring himself perfectly 
willing to go or stay, if he could be assured of 
the mind and will of his Father in heaven. That 
was more than I could show him; but I was 
strongly impressed with the conviction that his 



46 ORDINATION. 

duty lay in the foreign field. His piety was 
above doubt. His energy with perseverance, and 
lis zeal with, prudence, were well tried and known. 
His heroic fortitude and his high enterprise would 
make him ready for bold and noble deeds of 
moral daring in the great work of giving the 
Bible to the Orient, and I confess I had strong 
desires that he should undertake the service. 

He accepted the appointment, and was ordained 
by the Presbytery of Newark, in the city of 
Newark, N. J., to the work of the ministry. 



CHAPTER VII. 



MISSION" TO THE EAST. 



Mr. Righter left this country, for the last time 
as it proved, on the 30th. of September, 1854. He 
sailed in the steamer Pacific, which, was lost in 
the following year, haying never been heard from 
after leaving port. A large number of his friends 
were on board to bid him farewell, in the confi- 
dent hope of greeting him again after an absence 
of three years. He departed cheerfully, joyfully, 
to enter upon the great work that had been com- 
■ mitted to him, that of disseminating the Word of 
God throughout that part of the world where it 
was first published, and where the gospel had its 
earliest triumphs. The voyage across the Atlan- 
tic was pleasant and prosperous. He writes to 
his mother, on board the 

" Steamer Pacific, Oct. 1th, 1854. 

" My Dear Mother : How well I remember 

the last look of friends at parting, their farewell 

adieus on the wharf ! How they linger with me 

still, by night and by day, as I sail upon the ocean, 



48 LETTER TO HIS MOTHER. 

assuring me, in tenderness and love, that I do not 
go alone, but the Spirit and prayers of friends en- 
compass me round in all my way. Though far 
on the wide waters I am not alone or lonely — the 
same stars gleam nightly in the sky as at home — 
the same moon shines out to cheer us on our 
voyage — the same God, who upholds the pillars 
of the land, doth likewise plant his footsteps in 
the mighty deep, and place around and under- 
neath us his everlasting arms. He commands the 
winds and waves concerning us to bear us safely 
over the sea, and we thus go on our way rejoicing. 

" I enjoy much the purity and poetry of the sea, 
the ideas of grandeur and sublimity it inspires, 
constantly mirroring to us God in his attributes 
of infinity and eternity, and lifting the soul away 
from earth to heaven. ' Whither shall we go 
from his presence, whither shall we fly from his 
Spirit ? If we ascend into heaven he is there ; if 
we make our bed in hell, behold, he is there ; if 
we take the wings of the morning and dwell in 
the uttermost parts of the sea, even there shall 
his hand lead us, and his right hand uphold us.' 
Above, beneath, around, all speaks to us of him, 
the same ever-living, ever-acting, wonder-working 
God. 

" We have had a delightful passage, speeding 
on through the ocean day after day, calm and 
tranquil as a May morning. Varying incidents 



LANDING- AT LIVERPOOL. 49 

are constantly occurring to interest and entertain. 
Now, we see a steamer in the distant horizon ; 
now a vessel with all sails spread to the breeze, a 
splendid sight upon the wide ocean ; and now a 
whale spouting the water high in air ; and then 
an iceberg, an hundred and fifty feet above the 
water, resplendent as the sunlight falls upon it 
from afar. Then new and pleasant acquaintances 
are formed on board ; new entertainments invent- 
ed — games, concerts, and lectures — all to make 
the time flit quickly by, yet as the sun sinks in 
liquid, golden glory, behind the western wave, our 
thoughts ever turn toward home, and those we 
love in that far-off land. Indeed, the ties that 
bind us there seem to grow, at once, stronger and 
more tender as time and distance intervene the 
more between us." 

Landing at Liverpool on the eleventh day, he 
proceeded the next morning to London. Here 
he called upon the officers of the British and Fo- 
reign Bible Society, who received him with great 
cordiality, promising to co-operate with the Ame- 
rican Society in giving the Bible to the Eastern 
nations. He found that the British institution 
was printing an edition of five thousand copies 
for circulation at Constantinople and in the vici- 
nity, and that it had a number already on de- 
posit there, which could be brought into imme- 

5 



50 ISLE OF WIGHT. 

diate use. The cordial reception which, he met 
with from the friends of the Bible in London was 
very animating to his spirits, which were always 
buoyant and hopeful. 

Here he spent one or two days in company with 
his friends, Kev. E. D. Gr. Prime, and Mr. D. E. 
Hawley, of New York, who had left home with 
him, and who were to be his travelling compa- 
nions until they should reach Rome, where they 
were to separate. At Havre they were joined by 
Mr. Eichard 0. McOormick, Jr., Corresponding 
Secretary of the New York Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association, who went with him to the Cri- 
mea, and subsequently left him at Constantinople. 
The time that they spent in the Isle of Wight was 
passed delightfully among the scenes of beauty 
and of interest with which that charming spot of 
earth abounds, the most interesting of which are 
the sacred places that have become familiar to the 
whole Christian world, through the sweet pages 
of Leigh Eichmond's " Annals of the Poor," the 
cottage and the graves of the " Pairyman and 
his Daughter," and the home and burial-place of 
" Little Jane.' 7 In a letter to his brother he says : 

" "We made an excursion to the Isle of Wight, 
which we saw in the full perfection of autumnal 
beauty. Here we visited the grave and cottage 
of the ' Dairyman's Daughter ;' saw the room in 



ON THE CONTINENT. 51 

which she died, and the old Bible she used to 
read, with her name inscribed by her own hand ; 
and then we went and stood beside the grave of 
'Little Jane,' the young cottager, and felt our 
piety quickened and strengthened as we called to 
mind the life and death of these lambs of Christ's 
flock, who are now clothed with all the purity 
and holiness of heaven." 

At Paris Mr. Eighter, keeping the objects of 
his mission constantly in view, called upon seve- 
ral brethren interested in the Bible, cause, from 
whom he learned many encouraging facts, not 
only relating to the circulation of the Scriptures 
in France, but especially in reference to the sup- 
ply of the army going into the Crimea. The go- 
vernment had placed no obstacles in the way of 
furnishing the soldiers with the Bible, and the 
opportunity had been readily embraced as far as 
the funds in the hands of the Paris committee 
would allow. Dr. Grand Pierre, M. Presence, and 
Dr. Frederic Monod were especially interested in 
the objects he had in view. 

At Geneva, in Switzerland, where he paused 
for two or three days, he called upon Dr. Cesar 
Malan, whom he had met on a previous visit; 
upon Dr. Merle D'Aubigne, and Col. Tronchin, 
who gave him much interesting information in 
reference to the efforts making for the spread of 



52 GENEVA. 

the Bible in Sardinia, in which the friends of the 
cause in Geneva were aided by funds from the 
American Bible Society. Here he also found the 
Rev-. Mr. Whiting and his wife, missionaries to 
Syria, who had been spending the summer in 
Switzerland for the improvement of their health, 
and whom he had once met, and expected again 
to meet, on missionary ground. The Madiai fa- 
mily, who had well nigh proved martyrs to the 
reading of the Bible in Tuscany, were also so- 
journing in Geneva at the same time. Having 
been acquainted with them on his former visit to 
Europe, Mr. Eighter renewed the acquaintance 
with heartfelt pleasure, sympathizing with them 
in the persecutions which they were called to 
endure, and as a representative of the friends of 
the Bible in this country, tendering to them the 
sympathy of Christians in America. This is, per- 
haps, the most appropriate place in which to insert 
a letter addressed to him by these exiled and suf- 
fering servants of Christ, in reply to one he had 
written from Constantinople about two months 
after this visit. 

"Rue St. Antoine, Maisox Boeri, 
" Ancienne route de France, Feb. 2d, 1855. 

" My Dear Sir : I feel most grateful to you 
for your kind remembrance of us, and very much 
obliged to your dear mother for the beautiful spe- 



THE MADIAIS. 53 

cimen of the silver- weed, as well as for the very 
appropriate verses which accompanied it. I shall 
preserve it carefully in my English Bible as a 
memento of Christian kindness and sympathy 
from the New World. It touches me much that 
Mrs. Eighter should have given such an honora- 
ble place to such an unworthy gift. 

" I regret to say that the Bible, in question, was 
taken, with many other books by the Tuscan Go- 
vernment, and we have never been enabled to 
recover them ; so that you see it is quite out of 
my power, unfortunately, to grant your request. 
I hope you will be so good as to mention this to 
Monsieur le Docteur Brigham. 

" Two months back I took the liberty of writ- 
ing to Mr. Cook, encouraged to do so by his hav- 
ing desired me, should I want anything, to ad- 
dress myself to him ; as through the Lord's good- 
ness I had not any personal favor to request, I 
ventured to ask his aid for an object which I have 
very much, at heart, namely, the educating of four 
young girls (children of parents who have suf- 
fered for the truth), and who are to be afterwards 
employed, if the Lord will, as teachers in schools, 
in order to disseminate the pure light of the glo- 
rious gospel in this benighted land. I also asked 
his help to get some tracts printed in Italian, which 
have been already translated, and which we would 
have distributed in the mountains as well as in 
5* 



54 TURIN. 

the towns of my native land. The funds we have 
are quite insufficient to complete either of these 
objects, they are more particularly under the di- 
rection of the Count Guicciardini, who is a well- 
known Christian, and extremely generous for 
everything which tends to promote the glory of 
his Lord and Master. A letter addressed here, to 
the Poste-Eestante, to him, or to the Doctor Ma- 
lan, at Geneva, would be sure to find them. 

" My husband joins me in every kind wish for 
you and your mother, Mrs. Eighter, and he de- 
sires me to salute you both in the words of the 
sixth chapter of Numbers, verses 24, 25, and 26. 
" And again cordially thanking you for your 
welcome letter and acceptable present, 
" I remain, 
" Your humble servant in the Lord, 

" Francesco and 
"Kosa Madiai." 

After pausing in Geneva Mr. Eighter proceeded 
on his journey reaching Turin on the afternoon 
•of Saturday, and left immediately for the Wal- 
densian valley, where he spent the Sabbath, to- 
gether with two friends, who were his travelling 
companions, Messrs. Prime and McCormick. This 
visit was one of deep interest to all who shared 
in its opportunities of Christian intercourse. The 
party arrived late in the evening at La Tour, but 



WALDENSIAN WOBSHIP. 55 

upon calling in the morning on the professors of 
the college they were warmly received, and the 
Sabbath, spent in communion and in worship- 
ping with the Waldensian Christians, was one 
never to be forgotten. They were invited in the 
morning to walk out some two or three miles to 
one of the mountain churches, where they found 
the young men of the parish drawn up in martial 
array, fully equipped, as for an engagement. This 
had been their practice since the days when their 
fathers had to worship God in the constant ap- 
prehension that their persecutors might the next 
moment be upon them to silence the voice of 
prayer and of praise. It was a touching sight, 
on entering the little mountain chapel, to see the 
aged fathers and mothers assembled for the morn- 
ing worship waiting in silence for it to commence, 
and with a devout and humble spirit entering 
heartily into the service. As one and another 
entered they stood for a few moments in silent 
prayer, and then sat down to unite in the service. 
Near this chapel, upon the mountain side, was a 
rock overhanging a precipice, from which, in the 
days of persecution, many victims of papal malice, 
chiefly women and little children, were thrown 
and cruelly murdered — a spot which awakens 
memories and emotions thrilling to every Protes- 
tant heart. But it was a pleasure to these Pro- 
testants from the New World to find the children 



56 TURIN AND FLORENCE. 

of the persecuted, and the children of the Most 
High, enjoying such peace and prosperity, where 
their forefathers had suffered the most inhuman 
cruelties, and where myriads had suffered mar- 
tyrdom, for no other crime than that of rejecting 
the idolatries of the Eomish Church. 

In the afternoon these friends attended the pa- 
rish church at La Tour, and in the evening met 
the professors and students of the college, and 
enjoyed some hours of most delightful Christian 
intercourse, which was closed by addresses ex- 
pressive of the mutual interest which this inter- 
view had afforded. 

After spending the following day in pleasant 
intercourse with Dr. Eevel, then Moderator of 
the "Waldensian Synod, and with other Christian 
friends, the party returned to Turin. Here Mr. 
Eighter was visited at his hotel by a number of 
Italians, who, having learned that his visit was 
in behalf of the Bible, earnestly importuned as- 
sistance in circulating it throughout Sardinia and 
other portions of Italy. Thus, at every step in 
his journey, he met with encouragement in re- 
gard to the great work upon which he had set 
out. The same, to a limited extent, was true 
even in Florence, where the imprisonment of the 
Madiai had suppressed all public efforts to circu- 
late the Word of God. Even at Eome he was 
not without encouraging evidence that the Word 



REACHES CONSTANTINOPLE. 57 

of God was circulated to some extent, and that it 
was desired by many more. 

Touching at Malta, on his way East, he had 
conferences with the English residents in regard 
to the work and its progress. Hearing that the 
cholera was raging at Athens, and that he could 
not accomplish anything material toward carry- 
ing out the object of his mission until the next 
season, he determined to sail directly to Constan- 
tinople. On the voyage, November 26, he makes 
the following note in his journal : 

" It is a lovely morning. We have an hour of 
communion, and social worship together in our 
state-room, McCormick, Wortabed, and myself. 
The Assyrian seems to have a tender and warm 
Christian heart. We had a pleasant converse 
together. Eead Psalms xci., xcvi. ; John xiv. ; 
Eev. i." 

Mr. Eighter spent a day at Smyrna, where he 
saw several of the missionary and other brethren, 
and reached Constantinople December 1st. It 
appeared as if the time of his coming was not the 
most auspicious, owing to the existence of the 
war, and the disturbed state of the Eastern world 
in consequence. But he soon found that a spirit 
of inquiry was beginning to prevail extensively 
among the people of the country, and that the 



58 BIBLE MEETING. 

presence of four large armies of itself opened a 
vast and interesting field for the circulation of 
the Bible. Mr. Barker, the agent of the British 
and Foreign Bible Societj^ had already com- 
menced the supply of the soldiers and sailors con- 
nected with the British army and shipping, and 
those in the hospitals, both sick and wounded. 
Mr. Bighter at once entered with him into this 
work, visiting the hospitals, and having access to 
those on their way to the Crraea. 

On the 6th of December a meeting of the Con- 
stantinople Bible Society was held. The Ameri- 
can minister, Mr. Spence, piesided, and made the 
opening address, urging the circulation of the 
Bible as the most effectual means of promoting 
peace and good will among men. Bev. Mr. 
Thompson, the Secretary, read the report, from 
which it appeared that much had been accom 
plished in the supply of the English and French 
armies, and even of the Bussian prisoners of war. 
Addresses were also made by American and Eng- 
lish clergymen present, and officers of the English 
army and navy, and by Mr. Bighter, as a repre- 
sentative of the American Bible Society, who as- 
sured them of the cordial co-operation of that So- 
ciety in giving the Bible to all the dwellers and 
sojourners in the East. The meeting was held in 
the hall of the principal hotel, and was attended 
by a large assembly of ladies and gentlemen, who 



VISITS THE HOSPITALS. 59 

listened for three hours with unabated interest to 
the proceedings and addresses. The effect of the 
meeting was to give still greater encouragement 
to all engaged or interested in the cause. 

On the 12th of December a meeting of the 
Committee of the Auxiliary Bible Society was 
held. Mr. Kumberlach presided, and made some 
very interesting statements in reference to the 
Eussian prisoners. They received the Testa- 
ments gladly, and one officer in particular, who 
had killed a number of English, earnestly be- 
sought the gift of a Testament, and others joined 
in the same request. This led to a motion re- 
commending the publication of the Old Testa- 
ment in modern Eusse. 

Mr. Eighter describes one of his visits to the 
English hospital, where the wounded, some hav- 
ing lost arms and others legs, and others wasted 
with long sickness and suffering, were lying in 
great numbers, but all at length well provided 
for. He says, "'The Testament is placed within 
the reach of all, and I saw many of them atten- 
tively reading it as I passed. I called upon the 
chief surgeon, who gives his sanction and encou- 
ragement to the circulation of the Bible, and then 
upon Miss Nightingale. "Was delighted with her 
benevolent expression and gentle spirit. She re- 
ceived me very kindly, and thanked me for the 
interest that is felt in America in her benevolent 



60 FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE. 

enterprise, and in the suffering English, soldiers. 
She has distributed many Testaments. The Ro- 
man Catholics receive them gladly, but the priests 
interfered. She requests the Douay version for 
them. They have 3,000 sick and wounded here, 
and are expecting 1,000 more from the camp." 



CHAPTBE VIII. 

VISIT TO THE CEIMEA. 

Haying accomplished all that required imme- 
diate attention in connexion with the Bible cause 
at Constantinople, Mr. Eighter determined upon 
making a visit to the camp of the allied armies 
at Sebastopol, to ascertain by personal inspection 
what opening there might be for the circulation 
of the Holy Scriptures among the troops. Ac^ 
cordingly he called upon Admiral Boxer to ob- 
tain an order or permit to visit the Crimea, which 
was cheerfully given as soon as the object of the 
visit was made known. Mr. Eighter hastily packed 
up about a hundred Bibles and Testaments for his 
own personal distribution, and in company with 
his friend, Mr. McCormick, on the 21st of De- 
cember, went on board the transport steamer Med- 
way, bound for the Crimea. 

An account of his visit is given in his own 
words, taken from a letter to the editors of the 
" New York Observer." It is a graphic descrip- 
tion of the horrors of war, and of the desolation 
which it leaves in its track. 

6 



62 LETTER. • 

11 Camp before Sebastopol, December 24, 1854. 

" Messrs. Editors : It was thought desirable 
that I should visit the Crimea for the purpose of 
making arrangements to supply the English and 
French troops with the Bible. We are in -camp 
before Sebastopol, on the field of Inkerman, within 
the roar of the enemy's cannon, and in the midst 
of shot and shell flying and bursting on either side. 
The officer who entertains me was engaged in the 
battle, and he walks with me a few steps upon the 
hill and points out the field. ' This,' said he, 
4 where we are now standing is the famous sand- 
bag battery which was taken and re-taken three 
times in the engagement, and here the Eussians 
and English lay in heaps together. There the 
Cossacks came up the valley at half-past six in the 
morning 60,000 strong to surprise our little band 
of only 8,000 men, and we fought them, hand to 
hand, with sword, pistol, and bayonet, for four 
hours, when we began to feel that we must soon 
be overpowered by numbers and entirely cut off 
to a man ; but the timely relief of the French, 
under General Bosquet, revived our drooping 
courage — we charged down the hill — soon put 
them to flight and drove them from the field, and 
the French closely pursued them even within the 
walls of Sebastopol. But what a terrible sight it 
was the afternoon and evening after the battle, to 
see the dead and dying strewn over the field, 



HORRORS OF WAR. 63 

mangled and cut to pieces ! and -then to hear the 
moan of the wounded and suffering as it sounded 
in our ears. Our tents, too, were all riddled and 
torn by balls and shot from their cannon and 
musketry, and our poor fellows were groaning for 
assistance. And we scarcely dare walk among the 
wounded, for the savage Eussians, just able to 
crawl, would bayonet and shoot our men, as they 
were giving a cup of cold water to their suffering 
comrades. They even fired upon us from their 
batteries when we were burying their own dead 
upon the field. The next day we buried a thou- 
sand Eussians in one grave, and when we came to 
one Englishman, our men said, " He must not go 
in with the Cossacks." I said, "Yes, they will 
now surely sleep quietly side by side," and we put 
him in too, and one grave closed over them all. 
I never saw a battle before, and never wish to see 
another. It was awful beyond conception. 7 

" Such is the description given me by one who 
was eye-witness and took part in this terrible con- 
flict. I then proposed to walk across a little ravine 
to an adjoining height, where I could have a good 
view of Sebastopol. 

" 'Yes,' said he, 1 1 think it can be done now 
with safety, there is less firing than usual this 
afternoon, I would go with you, but I am on 
double duty and cannot leave the camp. Be care- 
ful and not get beyond our entrenchments. Lord 



64 VIEW OF SEBASTOPOL. 

Dunkellin was taken prisoner by a party of Bus- 
sians just below this.' 

" After a refreshing cup of tea, I retired for the 
night. There had been cheering along the lines 
in the evening, and we thought it might be a 
signal for the assault which was daily expected, 
and as you might well imagine, my dreams were 
filled with sounds of cheers, and charge, and all 
the excitement of battle. Nor was it all a dream, 
for the Bussians made a sortie upon the trenches, 
and there was a heavier cannonading than usual 
that night, which shook the ground and tent 
around me. In the morning I was aroused early 
by the notes of the bugle, and beating of the 
morning drum to order and to arms for their 
daily drill. The music sounds beautifully through 
the encampment. The whole camp is soon astir, 
and formed in line, and as we ride along four 
miles in front, it presents a brilliant scene, with 
all the pomp and circumstance of war. "We have 
now reached the extreme left of the English de- 
fence, and another officer wishes to accompany us 
for the purpose of giving us 'the best possible 
view of Sebastopol and the entrenchments. , We 
walk a few steps to a height above the camp, and 
thence, with a good glass, can look directly into the 
town, the fortifications and batteries in front of 
the walls, and it indeed seems as if the Allies had 
not 'made the least impression upon it. As our 



VALLEY OF DEATH. 65 

friends themselves assured us, ' it is stronger now 
than when they first began the siege, for the Eus- 
sians have speedily repaired every damage, and 
have even erected mud batteries outside the walls 
to fire upon our lines.' 

" ' Now,' said they, ' if you will walk half a mile 
farther in front we will give you a still nearer 
view.' So we descended into a deep ravine called 
4 The Valley of Death,' and here the shot and 
shell, thirteen inch, and twenty-four and fifty -six 
pounders, lay like hailstones covering the ground, 
most of which, we were told, had been thrown 
from the Eussian batteries during the first day of 
the bombardment, but now occasionally one is 
added to the number, not a very comfortable an- 
nouncement. We then ascended the height, and 
here we could not only see the streets and build- 
ings of the town, and the whole line of fortifica- 
tions and entrenchments, but also the flash of the 
evening guns, and could hear the shells whizzing 
through the air and bursting around us. The 
English were firing from their battery a few rods 
below, and the French had just opened a new bat- 
tery a short distance to the left ; and the Eussians 
were answering their fire from the town. I asked, 
1 Is it not rather dangerous here?' 'Yes,' said 
they, l a chance shot might strike us, or it would 
not be surprising if the Eussians should direct a 
shell toward us, seeing a little company together 

6* 



66 THE FRENCH CAMP. 

with, spy-glasses in our hands.' We then rode 
across a large ravine, and came to the French 
camp. They occupy the extreme left or south 
side of the town, while the English hold the posi- 
tion to the right and north. The French have ad- 
vanced much nearer the walls with their trenches 
than the English, and say they will be the first 
to make the assault and enter the town, and 
that they will even go in alone if the English are 
not ready to join them. From this point we had 
a fine view of the allied fleet lying off Cape 
Chersonese, watching the movements of the Eus- 
sians, though they do not venture to enter the 
harbor and risk a hand-to-hand engagement with 
them. 

" So I set out alone to cross the valley and 
ascend the hill ; and then I saw another hill be- 
yond, where a still better view might be obtained, 
and having gained this, I could see the Eussian 
fleet, Fort Constantine, the narrow entrance of 
the harbor, where they have sunk their ships, the 
walls and fortifications of the town, with perfect 
distinctness. Yet I saw another height beyond, 
still nearer, and was advancing toward it when I 
suddenly came upon a dead Eussian lying beside 
his horse upon the field, and then another near 
by, and cannon balls and shells were now scat- 
tered thick around, and the dogs, preying upon 
the dead horses, began to bark at me, and the 






SUFFERING SOLDIERS. 67 

battery opened its fire, sending large shells whiz 
zing through, the air. Just then, too, I looked 
down into the ravine below, and saw a suspicious- 
looking party of men, and all at once it flashed 
upon me that I had probably gone beyond the 
English lines. I immediately beat a retreat and 
hastened back to the camp, where I related the 
adventure to my friend. It was wise that I had 
returned, for, said he, the enemy's advance battery 
is just there, and the Cossacks frequently come 
over the hill, in reconnoitring parties. 

" It is now evening and quite too late to return 
to-night to Balaklava, seven miles distant. I 
therefore accepted my friend's kind invitation to 
spend the night in his tent. We have very plain 
fare, cold salt pork, hard sea-biscuit, and coffee 
that is picked green and roasted, and pounded 
fine with large stones, and this at the table of a 
commissioned officer in the English army, yet I 
relished it well since it was most heartily given. 
As it is clear moonlight I spend an hour in visit- 
ing the soldiers in their tents. I found one or more 
sick and suffering in almost every tent, wrapped 
in blankets, and lying on the cold, damp ground. 
They complained of want of warm winter-cloth- 
ing and suitable provisions, having nothing but 
salt meat and no wood to cook it, stale pilot-bis- 
cuit, and green coffee, and no fire to roast it, and 
no medical attendance whatever, and yet they 



68 , VIEW OF THE ENCAMPMENT. 

are obliged to lie out in the trenches at night 
exposed to the wet and cold, and in constant fear 
of attack from the enemy. The night before six 
had been frozen to death there, and the night be- 
fore that the Eussians had made a sortie upon 
them and bayoneted ten others. l Our sufferings 
are very great,' said they, c but we are ready to 
meet the Cossacks at any moment, and die for the 
glory of our country.' I could not but have a 
great sympathy for the poor, brave fellows. I 
spoke a kind word of encouragement, and distri- 
buted a few Bibles and Testaments to them, which 
they received with much gratitude and thankful- 
ness of heart. 

" As I returned home to my tent, the view of 
the encampment, stretching for miles along the 
hillsides and in the valleys around, and the watch- 
fires blazing upon the heights afar, were pictu- 
resque and beautiful. My worthy host meets me 
at the door of his tent, l Do you see/ said he, 
1 that smoke curling in the distance ? You see, 
then, how near we are to our enemies. That is 
the smoke of the Eussian camj). They have a 
battery just across the ravine, and they frequently 
open their fire upon us, though they have been 
silent for some time past. Their men and ours 
often go down to this stream and water their 
horses on opposite sides.' 

",I then proceeded to head-quarters, and called 



CALLS ON LORD RAGLAN. 69 

upon Lord Eaglan in behalf of the American 
Bible Society. He received me very kindly, and 
invited me to dine with him on the following 
day. At his table I had the pleasure of meeting 
the officers of his staff, and an English lady, the 
Hon. Miss Derryman, who had come to the Cri- 
mea to visit her brother, a young officer wounded 
at Inkerman. His lordship asked me many ques- 
tions about America, and was much interested, as 
they all were, to know the feelings of Americans 
in reference to the war. 

" His Lordship lives in a large house appro- 
priated to the purpose, about two miles from the 
front camp, and maintains grand style with his 
suite of apartments, and silver plate and service. 
The houses and stables for his grooms and horses, 
the large marquees of his officers, and the guard- 
tents pitched around with flags floating from them, 
form quite a military settlement and a gay scene. 

" But it was now getting late, and his Lordship 
inquired, ' If we certainly knew the road to Ba- 
laklava, five miles distant,' saying, ' the path was 
quite uncertain at night.' "We replied with some 
degree of assurance, took leave of his lordship, 
and set out on our way. But we had not pro- 
ceeded far before a thick fog arose, and soon dark- 
ness closed around us. My friend, who assumed 
to be the guide of our party, said it was now all 
confused to him. He knew not whether we were 



70 LOSING THE WAY. 

going right towards, or right from, our point of 
destination, and we were beyond the line of tents, 
and saw camp-fires far in the distance. As we 
rode on, however, we saw an object just before 
us that appeared like a sentinel at his post. We 
knew not whether he was Cossack or friend, yet 
we ventured to hail him with the watchwords, 
4 Who goes there?' ('Qui vive') and no answer 
was returned ; but as we advanced still nearer, 
we found he was a stray horse, and could, there- 
fore, give us no direction in the road. We rode 
on another half hour, and then saw a company 
of men on the hill above us, yet were in doubt 
whether they were friends or Cossacks ; we slowly 
drew near and listened to their voices, and could 
not distinguish whether they were speaking Turk- 
ish or Eussian. But we had lost our way, and 
must summon up courage to hail them. Happily 
they proved to be French, on their road to the 
camp, and, with the politeness of Frenchmen, di- 
rected us in the right path. We had not pro- 
ceeded a half hour, however, before we found 
ourselves again in the brushwood, quite out of 
the path ; but fortunately, we once more heard 
voices in the ravine below, and this was a little 
company of Irish soldiers, who had also lost their 
way, and were pitching their tent for the night. 
Said I, { Can you direct me the way to Bala- 
klava ?' One of them at once accompanied me 






THE ROADS= 71 

up the hill, and said, ' This is the road, sir.' ' Are 
you quite sure V I asked. l An' faith, I am cer- 
tain, sir, for I have just come it myself.' Thus 
encouraged, we rode on with lightsome hearts ; 
presently the moon shone out in clear sky to 
cheer us on our way, and then we saw the High- 
land camp in the valley below to guide us for- 
ward, and in one hour more we reached Bala- 
klava and our good ship in safety, with much 
rejoicing and gratitude of heart. 

"It is impossible to describe the state of the 
, roads and country trodden and trampled down in 
every direction. The work of war. The land- 
marks are removed, the trees cut down, the houses 
torn down, and the furniture, even chairs^ pianos, 
and sofas, everything consumable has been used 
for fuel by the army. It was indeed a beautiful 
country when the Allies first landed, abounding 
in vineyards, cultivated fields, and lovely country 
residences ; now it is a waste of perfect desolation. 
The heavy rains and dragging of artillery, have 
made the mud half knee deep, and the horses, by 
being overworked, are dying by hundreds in the 
fields, and even the men are sinking down by the 
roadside, and dying under their heavy burdens, 
for as the horses have failed, they are obliged to 
transport their provisions, and even their heavy 
fifty-six pound shot and shell, to the camp on the 
backs of men. There is great suffering too in the 



72 SOLDIEES DYING. 

front camp, for want of stores and warm clothing. 
They are dying there at the rate of sixty per day, 
and coming down sick to the Hospital at Balaklava 
more than a hundred a day. And with the Turks 
it is still worse. It even amounts to a plague 
among them. They are dying by fifties, emaciated 
and loathsome in the extreme ; you see them lying 
dead and borne on litters in every direction for 
burial ; cast in pits, and loose dirt or stones thrown 
upon them. It is dreadful to behold. 

" The French, on the contrary, are better fur- 
nished with clothing, provisions, and medical 
attendance; they have fresh bread every other 
day in their camp, warm tents and fires, yet such 
is the severity of the season here, and so great is 
the exposure in the trenches at night and from rain 
and snow, that the mortality among them is also 
very great. 

" Thus the Czar has likewise two powerful allies, 
winter and disease, which are making fearful ra- 
vages among the allied troops. Eeinforcements 
are rapidly arriving from France and England, 
but the new troops are dying faster than the old 
ones, who have been.longer here, and are hardened 
to the exposure. The Allies occupy fifteen miles 
of defence, constantly exposed to attack from the 
Russians, who are near their lines on all sides, and 
have free communication with the fleet and fortress 
of Sebastopol, as well as their provinces by the 



TREATMENT OF TURKS. 73 

way of Perekop on tlie north*. The Allies have 
100,000 men and 650 heavy guns, while the Eus- 
sian army has 150,000 men, and 700 guns of 
]arger size than the Allies, as well as the advantage 
of strong fortifications, and ammunition for two 
years. I also notice that the Czar has just issued 
a ukase for a new levy of one man to every 
thousand in his empire, which will increase his 
army more than a million. So that there must be 
terrible fighting yet, and there - is every prospect 
that Sebastopol will not be taken at least before 
next Spring. 

" The most perfect good feeling exists between 
the French and English on the part of soldiers 
and officers ; they salute each other with the com- 
mon term, 'buono Inglese,' 'buono Francese,' 
good English, good French, and both equally detest 
and despise the Turks, kicking and beating them 
like Turkish dogs, as they themselves formerly 
treated the Christians. I myself saw a Turkish 
officer, with his face all cut and bleeding from the 
sword of an English soldier, who escaped with a 
slight reprimand, whereas if the offence had been 
committed against an English or French officer, by 
a Turkish soldier, he would have been immediately 
shot. 

" I would also add that my esteemed friend, 
Mr. Eichard C. McCormick, Jr., Secretary of the 
Young Men's Christian Association of New York, 



74 MR. m'cormick. 

who lias been my travelling companion from Paris 
to the East, likewise acompanied me to the Crimea, 
and has been of essential service to me in my 
efforts in behalf of the soldiers. His health still 
continues good. 

" Most sincerely your friend, 

"C. K KlGHTER." 



CHAPTER IX. 

BIBLE LABOES IN THE CRIMEA. 

The letter given below was addressed to the 
Secretary of the American Bible Society, and 
contains a deeply interesting record of the perse- 
verance and the success of Mr. Eighter in his efforts 
to secure the distribution of the Bible in the allied 
armies of England and France. 

"Camp before Sebastopol, Dec. 26, 1854. 

"My Dear Brother: As I found that all the 
avenues for Bible distribution among the soldiers 
and sailors at Constantinople were occupied by 
the agency of the British and Foreign Bible 
Society, I decided with the advice and approba- 
tion of our good friends, to make a visit to 'the 
camp at Sebastopol, for the purpose of ascertain- 
ing the demand there, and making arrangements 
for the supply. Accordingly I was kindly pre- 
sented with an order from Admiral Boxer for a 
passage on board an English transport ship to the 
Crimea. It was a lovely afternoon as we sailed 
from the Golden Horn through the Bosphorus out 



76 DIFFICULTIES. 

to the Black Sea, and thence two days upon its 
stormy waters to Balaklava, the fine little harbor 
for English shipping and stores for the army of 
the East. I took a hundred Bibles and Testa- 
ments with me, and on my arrival was received 
by Mr. Matheson, agent of the Soldier's Friend 
Society, who gave me a cordial welcome, and re- 
marked that my visit there at the present time 
was most providential, and I could have brought 
nothing more acceptable than Bibles. He said, 
however, there was great opposition on the part 
of the chief chaplain to any religious effort in be- 
half of the soldiers. He himself had been forbid- 
den the camp by this authority, and whatever he 
was able to accomplish must be done in the most 
clandestine manner possible. And as I accompa- 
nied him in his benevolent work, I soon found it 
was but too true. He seemed afraid to let it be 
known that he had tracts or religious books. He 
kept them concealed under his coat and in his 
pockets, and as he met the soldiers singly or in 
little companies off duty, he would secretly slip a 
tract or religious book into their hands for them to 
carry to their tents and read. Yet I was glad to 
notice how thankfully all received them at his 
hands. ' Don't you see,' said he, ' how guarded 
I must be not to attract attention from the officers 
or chaplains in my work, or I would be immedi- 
ately expelled from the field ; yet I am daily dis- 



THE CHAPLAIN. 77 

tributing my hundreds of tracts, and they are 
doing their good work in the army and navy.' I 
asked if it were not possible for me to obtain per- 
mission from the officers for the distribution of the 
Bible among the troops. ' There is not the least 
possibility of it,' said he. l I would not advise 
you to call upon them for that purpose, it will 
only excite their opposition.' 

" I then called upon Eev. Mr. Hay ward, the 
chaplain of the royal forces at Balaklava. He re- 
ceived me very kindly, and said that Bibles were 
much needed by the soldiers, but to how great an 
extent he knew not. He had received a small 
supply from England, and had only given them 
sparingly, and thought many more might be 
wanted. I found him to be a man of excellent 
Christian spirit, denying himself the ordinary 
comforts and enjoyments of life, and laboring 
night and day for the spiritual welfare of the suf- 
fering and dying soldiers. And it was delightful 
to see how kindly these rough soldiers received 
his visits, and listened to the words of love and 
Christian admonition he addressed them. He 
seemed fully imbued with the spirit of our Savior, 
' who went about doing good.' Yet when I pro- 
posed, in accompanying him on his visit, to give 
a few Bibles and Testaments to those who desired 
them, he replied at once, ' It is contrary to gene- 
ral orders, and I would not dare give my consent.' 
7* 



78 DISTRIBUTING BIBLES. 

I then asked if it were not possible to obtain such 
authority from the commander-in-chief. He said, 
1 You may make the effort, but I am quite sure 
you will not succeed. I should be right glad if 
it were so.' Notwithstanding, I set out next 
morning early for headquarters at the camp, four 
miles distant, putting a few Testaments in my 
pocket for distribution by the way. As we were 
trudging along through the mud half-knee deep 
(it is impossible to conceive the state of the roads 
which the heavy rains and artillery wagons have 
made), I saw the wife of a soldier, in the midst 
of the din and confusion of the scene, stopping to 
rest by the wayside, and her interesting counte- 
nance attracted my attention. I stepped forward, 
spoke a pleasant word to her, and asked her if she 
had a Bible or Testament in her tent. ' Oh, no,' 
said she, 'we have just come from Varna, and if 
you could give me one I should be very thank- 
ful ;' and an old soldier coming up, said, ' If you 
could give me one, too, sir, I would think very 
much of it. I belong to Captain Frazer's battery, 
and we have no Bibles there.' So I gave them each 
one, and went on my way rejoicing. In two hours 
we reached the headquarters of Lord Eaglan. Here 
I called upon General Estcourt, his principal secre- 
tary, and stated the object of my visit, in the 
name of the American Bible Society, to obtain 
permission to supply the soldiers of the army with 



LORD RAGLAK. 79 

Bibles and Testaments. He received me very 
kindly, and said he would at once present the sub- 
ject to Lord Eaglan, who would undoubtedly 
grant my request. 

"I then proceded to 'headquarters 7 of the 
French General, Canrobert, for a like purpose in 
reference to the French troops, stating that the 
Emperor had given such permission for the camp 
at Boulogne, and in France Bibles were stamped 
for general circulation by authority of govern- 
ment. His aide-de-camp kindly offered to take the 
matter in charge, and send me the General's an- 
swer next morning. Subsequently I called upon 
Lord Raglan in person. He gave me a very gra- 
cious reception, and invited me to dine with him 
on the morrow, when he would have a written 
communication prepared. Accordingly, the next 
day I had the pleasure of dining with his Lord- 
ship and staff, and of receiving from his secretary 
the following letter : 

" ' Camp before Sebastopol, Dec. 28, 1854. 
" ' Sir : I have this afternoon seen Lord Eaglan, 
and have communicated to him the desire of the 
American Bible Society, and the purpose of your 
visit to Balaklava at this time. I am directed by 
his Lordship to express the thanks which are due 
from the army to the American Bible Society for 
their benevolent intentions, and to say that his 



80 GENERAL CANROBERT DECLINES. 

Lordship can have no objection to the distribution 
of Bibles to the soldiers of this army ; quite the 
contrary ; but he thinks it desirable that it should 
be intrusted to the chaplains of the army attached 
to the different divisions, or at any rate, that it 
may be done in concert with them, so that they 
may be made acquainted with all that is done. 

" 'If it should happen that the Society should 
wish to send a gentleman of their body to watch 
the distribution of their bounty, I must request 
that he will first call on me, bringing with him 
the authority of the Society for acting in their 
behalf. 

" 'I have the honor to be, sir, 

" 'Your most obedient servant, 

" 'J. BlTCKNALL ESTCOURT, A. J. 
" 'The Rev. C. N. Righter.' 

" The Society understand, I hope, that the dis- 
tribution of Bibles cannot be allowed to entail 
any sort of ministration to the soldiers. I have 
to add, that I received yesterday evening a note 
from Major Clairmont, attached to the headquar- 
ters of the French army, and he begs me to say 
that your views in respect to the French army 
would be contrary to their rules, and therefore 
that the General Canrobert must decline to give 
his sanction to your request. 

" His Lordship likewise remarked he was very 



ENTERS ON THE WOEK. 81 

happy such a benevolent work was designed on 
the part of the American Bible Society, and hoped 
it would still further have an influence to promote 
good feeling and Christian fellowship between 
England and Americ^. Whereupon I took my 
leave, thanking his Lordship cordially for his kind 
expressions and entertainment. I then proceeded 
at once with the letter in hand (having l War,' 
and l on Her Majesty's Service,' printed upon it 
in large capitals) to the advance camp in front of 
Sebastopol, there to ascertain whether the soldiers 
really needed Bibles, and how they would receive 
them. It was evening when I arrived. The can- 
nonading from the town was unusually heavy 
that night, and shot and shell were firing and 
bursting on either side of us, though providen- 
tially none reached our camp. In the course 
of our conversation, the officer who entertained 
me remarked, he had lost his Bible that he 
brought with him from England, and a good 
lady at Constantinople had given him another, 
which he valued very much. I then said, that 
was the object of my visit, to learn if there were 
not other officers and soldiers who also wished 
the Bible. He did not doubt I would find many 
such. Thus encouraged I set out by moonlight 
to walk around our little cluster of tents, com- 
prising one division only, while the whole en- 
campment stretches fifteen miles along the hill- 



82 SOLDIEES ASKING BIBLES. 

sides, and through the ravines around. In the 
first tent I entered there were three soldiers, and 
when I inquired if they were all supplied with 
Bibles and Testaments, one poor fellow, lying on 
the damp ground wrapped in his blanket, raising 
himself up, said, ' I would like very much to 
have one, sir ;' then the others expressed the 
same desire ; and as I gave them each a Testa- 
ment they thanked me with heartfelt gratitude 
for coming so far to give them the Word of Life ; 
and would not let me go without receiving some 
gifts of nuts and almonds from them in return. 
In the next tent I found three others, and one of 
them shivering with the ague ; and upon repeat- 
ing the same question, he roused up, and said, ' I 
would like very much to have a Bible : I had 
one when I left England, but I lost it at the bat- 
tle of Alma ; and since then I have had nothing 
but a prayer-book, which I plundered from the 
knapsack of a dead comrade at Inkerman.' I ac- 
cordingly offered him a Bible, remarking that it 
was our custom to sell to those who were able to 
buy, and give freely to those who were not. ' I 
have money,' said he, L and would gladly pay for 
it : I should value it the more. How much shall 
I give ?' I said, c Whatever you choose.' He 
handed me at once 35. 6d. sterling, or seven shil- 
lings in our money. I gave him back twenty- 
five cents, saying it was too much for a poor sol- 



A soldier's offering. 83 

dier to pay. l Oh, no/ said he, ' keep it all. I 
give it all as a free-will offering to the American 
Bible Society' I gave the others Testaments, and 
as I left they pronounced many blessings on my 
head, for bringing them the "Word of God, say- 
ing, 4 the last thing they would throw away again 
on their march would be the Bible. 1 In the next 
tent I met with a like reception. One soldier 
said he wished to have a Bible, { and, 7 said he, L I 
rather think I will take two ; for I am quite sure 
my brother, who is out on duty in the trenches, 
would like to have one also ;' and he handed me 
out 45., or one dollar of our money, saying he 
was very ^thankful to receive them for that ; and 
one, sitting beside him, politely took off his cap 
to me, and said, l Now I can enjoy the Word of 
God too ; for though I cannot read myself, I can 
hear it from this man, and it will do me as much 
good as him. We have been in all the battles 
together, and, thank God, we have both been pre- 
served. But can you not come to-morrow night, 
when the others will be in from the pickets ? I 
am sure they would all like to get Bibles of you. 
Oh, sir, if we could only have the like of you 
to come and see us in our tents, and speak a 
kind word to us, how thankful we would be !' 
I was pleased, too, to notice the respectfulness as 
well as kindness with which they received me, a 
stranger, bearing the Bible. I remarked, ' The 



84 STOCK EXHAUSTED. 

medals voted by Parliament for those engaged at 
Alma and Inkerman are coming soon.' l Yes,' 
said they, L and we will be glad to get them ; but 
we would rather have your Bibles.'' I said, ' Then 

I hope you will read and treasure them, as the 
Word of God which maketh us wise unto ever- 
lasting salvation.' l Never fear that,' says one, 

I I have a sister at home, who sends me a good 
tract every time she writes to me ; and I have 
read and kept them every one, and now I have 
the Bible, which is better than all.' As my little 
stock was thus so soon exhausted, I returned to 
my tent, rejoiced that I had been privileged to 
distribute Bibles and Testaments to those noble 
soldiers in camp on the field of Inkerman, and 
prayed that God would abundantly bless his 
Word to their spiritual good. 

" In the morning early, at the beating of the 
morning drum, I hastened down to Balaklava, 
where my good friends were delighted to hear of 
my unexpected success, both with officers and 
soldiers, and they heartily thanked God for it. 
Eev. Mr. Hayward said at once he would take 
1,000 Bibles and Testaments for distribution, and 
would send us in return a part of his stated col- 
lection at the church service. Eev. Mr. Camp- 
bell also wished 600, and many more would be 
required by the other chaplains. Mr. Matheson 
also begged that he might be constituted agent 



RUSSIAN PRISONERS. 85 

for the work, as lie regarded it even more import- 
ant than distributing tracts, to circulate the Book 
of God. ' And/ said he to me, ' we haye the 
Word ; now we only want the Spirit ; we must 
have earnest prayer for that.' 

" I then called upon the chief of police, for the 
purpose of obtaining access to the Russian prison- 
ers, and supplying them with the Bible. I found 
the officer himself was out, but his deputy was 
sitting behind the desk, and it seems he had re- 
ceived intimation that I was coming, for he asked 
immediately, 'What is it you wish, sir? Is it 
anything I can do as well ? I rather think it is 
something in the missionary line, isn't it ?' I re- 
plied, l Yes ; I wished to see the Russian prison- 
ers, and give them the Bible, if they desired it.' 
'Well,' said he, 'I always like to help on. the 
good Cause, and will be glad to accompany you.' 

" We accordingly took with us an interpreter, 
and proceeded to the guard-house. The sentinels 
on duty demanded our business. He stepped 
forward and said, ' We wish to see the Russian 
prisoners. This man is a missionary : this is Mr. 
Upton, and I am deputy-provost ; and whatever 
is done well, or whatever is done ill, I will be 
answerable for it.' The sentinels immediately 
stood aside, and we entered the guard-room. 
Here were eleven prisoners, only one of whom 
could read ; and upon asking him if he would 



86 KETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 

like to receive a new Testament, lie expressed 
great desire to have it, and when I gave it in his 
hand he manifested much thankfulness, and said, 
he would not only read it himself, but would also 
read it aloud to the others that the "Word of God 
might be multiplied. The officer insisted upon it 
that he must receive and value it as the Book of 
Salvation, and he replied with many expressions 
of gratitude for so precious a gift. And when I 
thanked the officer for his kind assistance in the 
matter, < Not at all,' said he, l these things do me 
as much good as you.' And I am happy to add 
that I have received the same generous aid, in 
furtherance of my Bible efforts, from all the Eng- 
lish officers in every department of the service. 
I then obtained an order from the commissariat 
for a return passage, and in two days reached 
Constantinople, where I gave a full report of my 
visit before the committee of the Auxiliary Bible 
Society, which held its meeting on Tuesday last, 
and so great was the interest manifested, that it 
was at once voted that we jointly send a colpor- 
teur to labor in that important field. I have also 
written to Paris, to gain permission from the Em- 
peror for a like work of Bible distribution among 
the French troops, which I doubt not will be 
readily granted." 



DEATH OF MES. EVERETT. 87 

"Constantinople, Jan. 4, 1855. 

u This morning I have sent a small supply of 
Bibles and Testaments to the chaplains at the 
Crimea for immediate distribution, instructing 
that they be sold, in each instance, where the 
soldiers are willing to purchase, and only given 
in special cases of need. I find Mr. Barker, agent 
of the British and Foreign Bible Society here, a 
most excellent and efficient man ; with whom I 
can entirely harmonize and co-operate in all my 
Bible movements. 

"Yesterday I received a letter from Dr. King, 
at Athens, giving an account of the terrible 
ravages of cholera there for the last two months, 
and fully approving the wisdom of my decision 
in coming directly to Constantinople, as besides 
the great exposure of life, I could have accom- 
plished absolutely nothing there. He adds, 
moreover, that the work of issuing the modern 
Greek New Testament has been delayed at least 
two months by reason of the scourge. I deeply 
regret to announce the sudden death of Mrs. 
Everett of this mission, since I last wrote, cor- 
dially beloved by all who knew her — taken from 
us in the midst of youth and active usefulness, 
and leaving a bereaved husband and tender, sor- 
rowing family to mourn her loss. Such are the 
inscrutable ways of Providence to man. Yet we 
bow submissively to his afflictive hand, and feel 



88 DEATH OF MRS. EVERETT. 

to say, 'He doeth all things well;' 'The Lord 
gave, and the Lord hath taken away, blessed be 
the name of the Lord.' 

" Most sincerely yours, 

" in the bonds of the Bible, 

" 0. K KlGHTER." 



CHAPTER X. 

BIBLE LABOES IK TURKEY. 

Mr. Eighter reacted Constantinople, on his 
return from the Crimea, on the last day of the 
year 1854. Besides attending to the distribution 
of the Scriptures in the hospitals and among the 
various classes in the city and vicinity, he com- 
menced an effort to obtain a depository for Bibles 
and other religious books, which was soon success- 
ful. In a letter to the American Bible Society, 
dated April 19th, 1855, he speaks of the opening 
and of the encouragements to the circulation of 
the Scriptures as follows : 

" The principal feature of interest in connexion 
with the Bible cause at Constantinople, during 
the present month, is the opening of our new de- 
pository to the public, for the sale of Bibles in 
various languages, in Pera, the Frank quarter of 
the city. We have 'obtained a large magazine in 
the main street, and erected a sign over the door 
with i Bible and Beligious Book Depository ' in 
large capitals upon it, and suspended another in 

8* 



90 DEPOSITORY. 

front with five different languages, English, 
French, German, Turkish, and Greek, upon the 
two sides ; and placed the open Bible in various 
tongues in the windows, announcing to the mul- 
titude of every nation, who throng this crowded 
street, that 'here each in his own language can 
buy the Bible.' And it is most interesting to 
notice them stopping to read a moment in passing, 
and then coming in to buy the "Word of God. A 
few days since four Bulgarians came and pur- 
chased the Psalms in Eussian ; then came a Jew 
and bought a Spanish Bible, and another the Old 
Testament in Hebrew ; then an Italian called for 
the Bible, and a Greek, and Armenian, and Ger- 
man, and several French officers also wished for 
Bibles ; and all freely gave their money in ex- 
change for the Book of Life. We have likewise 
included other religious books, and connected a 
small reading-room with the establishment, in 
order to bring more in contact with the Scrip- 
tures, and thereby increase their sale ; and this 
has operated thus far most successfully. 

" The whole is under the direction of a commit- 
tee, of which Count de Zirylon Van Ney velt, the 
Ambassador of Holland, is president, a man of 
most earnest and excellent Christian spirit. 

"We have received a letter from the British 
and Foreign Bible Society, expressing their will- 
ingness to pay a reasonable proportion of the ex- 



TUKKS INQUIRING. 91 

penses of the depository for the sale of their 
books, and the committee have voted that they 
be requested to grant the sum of £50, as their 
proportion of the expense of the institution for 
the present year. I have already written to the 
American Bible Society upon the subject. Thus 
a new and most important agency is established 
for the spread of the Bible in this great metropolis, 
and incidentally to the various cities and towns 
of the Ottoman empire." 

In the same letter he makes mention of the re- 
markable spirit of inquiry after the "Word which 
had sprung up among the Turks : 

" In my last two letters I have spoken of the 
remarkable interest the Turks are beginning to 
manifest in the Bible. This is increasing. Three 
Turks recently came to the depository at Stam- 
boul, and bought each a Bible, saying that ' they 
regarded it as a treasure above price ;' and two 
others, upon receiving the Bible, kissed it de- 
voutly, and pressed it to their bosom, to express 
their love for it as the only true revelation from 
God, and opening to them the only true way of 
salvation. And another, as he bought the Bible, 
remarked that, i it was a very excellent book, but 
it came from the Turks.' They still persist in 
believing that nothing good can come from the 



92 ENGLISH AMBASSADOR. 

Christians. Said he, l Many hundred years ago, 
when we conquered the city, we found this book 
here in one of the magazines, and we did not 
value it very much. A short time afterwards an 
English traveller came along, and we sold it to 
him for a trifle. He took it home, and translated 
it into English. And this is the same Bible in 
Turkish, which you Christians have brought to 
us. It is our book, and we prize it highly. 7 

" Also another Turk has, of his own accord, 
proposed to open a shop for the sale of Turkish 
Bibles and Testaments in the midst of the other 
bazaars of the city, which would attract the atten- 
tion of all. This is surely very wonderful, when 
we remember that, according to the Mohammedan 
law, for a Mussulman to receive the Bible and 
become a Christian, is still punishable with death, 
which penalty has been executed within the last 
year at Adrianople, only three days' distant from 
the capital. 

" A few days since I called upon Lord Strat- 
ford de Eedcliffe, English Ambassador at the 
Sublime Porte, who has always 'been the firm 
friend of the Bible Cause and Protestantism in 
the East, and expressed to him the acknowledg- 
ments of our Society for the aid his protection 
and influence have always afforded us in pub- 
lishing and distributing the Bible in the Ottoman 
empire. He received me very kindly, and re- 



AN" AGED TUKK. 93 

plied : f Our cause and interest are the same. 
We are always glad to protect Americans and 
American missionaries where our consular au- 
thority extends, and yours, does not. The Ame- 
rican missionaries are most excellent men.' Said 
he, ' To what church do you belong?' I said 
that f I was a Presbyterian, but that our Society 
embraced all evangelical denominations.' 'I 
wish,' said he, l that we could all adopt the Apos- 
tles' ' creed,' and have no further divisions into 
churches and sects.' I replied, ' That was pre- 
cisely the creed and spirit of the American Bible 
Society.' " 

Under a later date he writes : 

" The Turks still continue to manifest a re- 
markable interest in the Bible and New Testa- 
ment, and are calling for these at our magazines. 
As I was sitting in the depository a few days 
since, my attention was attracted to an old Turk 
with a long beard, who was reading very intently 
in the open Bible through the window. He af- 
terward came in and asked to have one showed 
to him, saying, ' Eyi, chok eyi' (Good, very good). 

" Also a Softa, one of the readers of the Koran 
at the mosques, came and begged that a Bible 
might be given him, which was accordingly done, 
with the prayer that his eyes might thereby be 



94 ORDERS FOR BIBLES. 

opened, and he bo led to renounce the corrupt 
system of the false prophet, and embrace the truth 
as it is in Jesus." 

The same inquiry came from various parts of 
the Turkish empire, and from various tribes and 
tongues. In a letter, dated in April, he says : 

" The old depository in Stamboul has also sent 
increased supplies to the interior. I will men- 
tion one order for Kharput in Asia Minor, where 
Mr. Dunmore has recently been stationed. 
182 Armenian Bibles and Testaments, 
73 Psalms in Ancient and Modern Armenian, 
32 Turkish Testaments and Psalms, 
36 English Bibles and Testaments, 

6 Italian Bibles, 
18 Greek Bibles and Testaments, 
12 Graeco-Turkish Bibles and Testaments, 
6 Armeno-Turkish Bibles, 



365 Scriptures in different languages, and 
1,462 various religious books, making together 
1,828 volumes. Similar orders have likewise 
been received from Trebizond, Erzroom, Marso- 
van, and Tocat ; all of which proves that the 
Word of God is beginning to run very swiftly 
through this land." 

Under date of May 22 he writes : 



TURKISH GOVERNOR. 95 

" I have been attending the annual meeting of 
the Armenian Mission at Constantinople, during 
the last week, for the purpose of becoming ac- 
quainted with the missionaries from the interior. 
and enlisting their interest in the Bible Cause. 
They report an increased demand for the Scrip- 
tures at their various stations, and many interest- 
ing incidents of the great influence in some in- 
stances of even a single Bible or Testament in 
their fields of labor. I will mention one from the 
report of Eev. Mr. Clark, of Arabkir, respecting 
,one of the stations in his field. 

" f The Turkish Governor of the city obtained 
from us a copy of the Scriptures, which he is said 
to read openly, and discuss its truths with Turks, 
Koords, and Armenians. And his banker, an 
Armenian, the teacher of the Armenian school, 
and some others petitioned us some time since to 
establish a regular Protestant service on the Sab- 
bath. 

" ' Light has also spread in the villages around 
and in the region beyond, among the wild Koords 
of the mountains. A copy of the New Testa- 
ment which found its way into these wilds some 
four or five years since, having fallen into the 
hands of a Koordish chief, he has made it the 
law of his tribe. All matters are tried by the 
rules of the Gospel. Not only this, they seem to 
have received the Word in its spirit. They be- 



96 KUZZEL-BASH. 

lieve in Christ ; have a kind of church organiza- 
tion, and celebrate the Lord's Supper in com- 
memoration of his sufferings and death.' 

" Mr. Clark also says : ' There is a large popula- 
tion in our field of Turks, called Euzzel-bash. 
They seem to be a distinct party or tribe, and con- 
stitute the majority of Mussulmans in all this re- 
gion. They are all ready to receive the Gospel ; 
they believe in Christ ; they observe not the great 
fast of the Mohammedans, neither do they use 
their forms of prayer, or practise their various 
washings. They pray extempore ; they meet to- 
gether once a year, make bread, and eat it, and 
say this is for Christ. 

" ' Two copies of the New Testament in Turkish, 
not long since, were carried to one of their vil- 
lages. They were eagerly read and listened to. 
The villagers were amazed at the wonderful 
truths, and many joyfully received them. At 
length the villagers became divided among them- 
selves, and many separated from their Mollah, 
and declared they would receive the truth at all 
hazards. And these men have already been sub- 
jected to much persecution for the Gospel's sake, 
one of them at the same time being the chief man 
of the village. 

" l In another village, eight hours from Arabkir, 
a Euzzel-bash has a Testament which he reads 
and preaches to his people ; and he also is suffer- 



BIBLES FOE TURKS. 97 

ing much persecution. He is a Turk of some in- 
fluence. l It is the Lord's doing, and it is marvel- 
lous in our eyes.' " 

" Thus are the Bible and the Gospel spreading 
among the Turks throughout the empire. 

"We have received the following order for 
Scriptures from the Jewish station at Salonica : 
100 Hebrew Bibles, 25 Spanish Bibles, 100 He- 
brew Psalms, 100 Hebrew Pentateuch ; indicating 
that a good work is also springing up amongst 
the Jews. And from Adrianople comes a call 
for 25 Turkish Testaments, and 80 Hebrew 
Psalms. May the Lord yet more abundantly 
bless His "Word at all these stations, and in all 
these lands." 

Some extracts are made from his correspon- 
dence, showing what an inviting field the camps 
and hospitals of the allied nations at Constanti- 
nople presented for the distribution of the Scrip- 
tures and how readily it was occupied. 

"1,176 Bibles and Testaments have been sent to 
the English army in the Crimea. Lady Canning 
has generously purchased 200 Bibles and 500 Tes- 
taments, to be distributed among the British sol- 
diers and sailors in the hospitals at Constantinople. 
Seventeen Eussian prisoners have been supplied 
with Testaments. The visits of our colporteur were 

9 



98 FBENCH SOLDIERS. 

prevented for a time by authority of a sub-official 
who had charge of the prisoners ; but he applied 
at once to Lord William Paulet, commander-in- 
chief of the forces of this station, and received 
the following order : 

" ' Scutari, March 31, 1855. 
" 'Mr. William Sellers has permission to have 
access to the Eussian prisoners of war confined at 
the Turkish arsenal, for the purpose of supplying 
them with books. 

"T. W. Paulet, 
"B. General Com'g Troops.'" 

The French soldiers seemed no less anxious 
than the English to obtain the Scriptures. He 
writes from Constantinople, May 22 : 

" The twenty thousand French soldiers encamp- 
ed upon the heights above the Bosphorus, a few 
miles from the city, have furnished an interesting 
field for the distribution of the Scriptures during 
the last month. We had just begun fully to ob- 
tain access to them, however, as they were all 
ordered to the Crimea for the war; yet many 
will carry their little Testaments not only in £he 
camp but also on the field of battle, and will find 
these their only consolation at the hour of death. 

" I visited the camp a few days since, in com- 
pany with a son of the Eev. Mr. Schauffler, for 



ARMENIAN SHOP. 99 

the purpose of obtaining a general authorization 
from the commander-in-chief, to distribute Bibles 
and Testaments among the soldiers. On the way 
we stopped at a shop of refreshments kept by a 
Protestant Armenian, where a few Testaments had 
previously been deposited, and inquired if he had 
any remaining on hand. 'Not one,' said he. 
'Soon as the men found that New Testaments 
could be had here, they came and called earnestly 
for them, and my little supply was gone almost 
at once. I could distribute hundreds, if I gave 
them to all who wished. A commanding officer 
called here yesterday,' said he, 'and asked where 
these Testaments came from. I told him, a 
benevolent society had sent them.' He replied, 
'Present my thanks to that society for so good a 
work.' 

"This store, however, was not within the lines, 
and, according to camp regulation, the sentinels 
will allow no one to pass without a written order 
to that effect. And I wished a general permission 
for distributing the Bible to the soldiers in their 
tents, where a kind word might also be spoken 
accompanying the Word of Scripture. 

"We called at head-quarters, but unfortunately 
found the General absent at Constantinople. On 
our return through the camp, however, we gained 
the following written permission from a colonel, 
stamped with his seal, freely to enter th 3 lines of 



100 colonel's order. 

his regiment : 4 32d Regiment of Infantry. It is 
permitted to a colporteur, by the present permis- 
sion, to circulate freely in the camp of the regi- 
ment, to bring there works for the rise of the sol- 
diers.' 

" Works were of course interpreted to mean 
Scriptures, and we immediately sent a large supply 
of Testaments to his soldiers, who received them 
most gladly. While we were gone, two soldiers 
came from the hospital to the house of Mr. 
Schauffler, and begged for medicine and Testa- 
ments. One had previously received a Testament 
from there, and now he had brought his sick 
friend for one also ; and as Mr. S. gave it to him, 
he said, with tears in his eyes, i This is beyond 
all price to me. It will go with me till I die.' 
As there was yet one day before the troops were 
to embark, and the permission to visit one regi- 
ment susceptible of rather a general interpreta- 
tion, we sent two colporteurs to enter the camp 
wherever this would admit them ; and they thus 
distributed 300 Testaments to the soldiers, who 
manifested the greatest thankfulness at receiving 
them. Also, at the point of embarkation, on the 
following day, another was stationed to place in 
the hands of all whom he could reach at this last 
moment, the Word of Life, the way of everlast- 
ing salvation. Likewise, as they came from camp 
to Pera, a gratuitous supply was furnished them 



LITTLE DISTRIBUTOKS. 101 

from our depository ; and those wlio received Tes- 
taments sent their friends for the same ton livre, 
and when others went to Bebek, there they re- 
ceived them by the roadside from the hands of 
Mr. Hamlin's little daughters, replying, with much 
gratitude, ' Merci, Mademoiselle, merci beau- 
coup, c'est bon" — Thank you, Miss, thank you 
much, it is good. 

"More than a thousand Testaments have by 
these means, within a few days, been distributed 
to the troops. Thus, during their short encamp- 
ment here, much good seed has been sown amongst 
them which we trust will not fail to spring up and 
bring forth fruit an hundredfold in the hearts of 
these poor soldiers, hurried away to die in a fo- 
reign land upon the field of battle. And we hope 
to gain still greater facilities for supplying with 
the same divine treasure the twenty-five thousand 
other troops now on their way from France to 
occupy this camp." 

The seed thus sown will produce its fruit. 
Many of these soldiers died before leaving the 
Crimea, but many returned to France, bringing 
the Bible with them. 



9* 



CHAPTEE XL 

LETTEES HOME. 

" Crimea, Dec. 25th, 1854. 

" My Dear Father : I wish you L merry, 
merry Christmas,' from the shores of the Black 
Sea. Here I am at the seat and centre of war, 
within the roar of the enemy's cannon, and in the 
midst of all the martial excitement and display of 
the camp, yet my thoughts and remembrance to- 
day fondly turn to those I love in the far off 
Western land. I am reminded of the many 
happy Christmas days I have spent at home, 
around our own fireside, and in our little family 
circle ; I am reminded of the last we enjoyed 
together, when we were all gathered home and 
mingled in delightful social intercourse, my mind 
suddenly runs back through all the past years. 
I remember a father's kindness, tenderness and 
love, ever ready to grant my every wish and sup- 
ply my every want ; all this comes gushing up 
in mind to-day, and from the fulness of my heart 
I thank you for it all. 'None but he that feels it 
knows the gladness of such memories to a 
stranger in a strange land. 



CHRISTMAS FARE. 103 

" But you will ask how I am spending Christ- 
mas here. First, we have excellent accommoda- 
tions on board a transport ship in the harbor of 
Balaklava, the place of landing English stores 
for the army. We have roast goose, roast turkey, 
roast beef, and pork, for dinner, and right good 
cheer at the social table. As this is the first day 
(except Sabbath) that we have spent in the Cri- 
mea, we go up to Captain Frazer's battery upon 
the heights, above the town, to have a view of 
the camp — and it is indeed a brilliant scene. 
There are the Highland tents upon the highest 
hill ; then a company of French Zouaves ; then 
the Turks and English, and so on, for miles 
through the valleys ; and along the hill-sides 
stretches the encampment, far as the eye can 
reach. At intervals the batteries are placed with 
sentinels to guard them, and a strong line of en- 
trenchments the entire distance; and far in front, 
are stationed the pickets on horseback, to give 
the alarm at the first approach of the enemy ; 
just opposite, too, we see the Eussian outposts, 
and they themselves, fifty thousand strong, are a 
few rods behind the hill. And here are foraging 
parties coming across the plain, French, Turks, 
and English, infantry and cavalry, on foot and on 
horseback, nobleman and commoner, prince and 
peasant, officers and soldiers alike mounted on 
horses, mules, donkeys, and dromedaries, driving 



104 TO HIS MOTHER. 

carts, ambulance, and artillery wagons, bringing 
down the sick and marching up the new recruits ; 
meeting and passing, shouting and hurrying each 
other forward ; sticking fast in the mud and 
again moving on, all to the sound of martial 
music — fife, drum, and band. This forms the 
first picture, and gives us the first impression of 
all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. 
But I must close. Farewell, dear Father. 

" Your affectionate Son, 
" Chester.' 7 

" Constantinople, Jan. 1, 1855. 

" My Dear Mother : I wish you a happy 
New Year from the far East, my oriental home. 
The skies are bright and sunny here, and the air 
mild and genial, as I fondly trust they may be in 
the distant "West, where l the loved ones abide.' 
I have much enjoyed the day ; in our American 
chapel we had a union meeting of Christians 
of every denomination in the city — the Evange- 
lical Alliance of Constantinople. It was to me a 
delightful occasion, coming as I did directly from 
the seat and sound of war, and all the marshaling 
to arms and military excitement of the camp at 
Sebastopol, to enjoy this scene of peace here, 
where we met together in the name of the Prince 
of Peace, to hold sweet communion and fellow- 
ship with our Saviour and our God, and sit 



UNION MEETING. 105 

together in heavenly places in Christ Jesus. Ii 
was indeed good to be there, with our devoted 
Missionary friends and excellent English Chris- 
tians, forgetting the distinctions of church and 
country, and becoming one in Christ Jesus our 
Lord. I was called upon to address the meeting, 
and though without preparation I felt strength- 
ened in mind and spirit to give expression to the 
emotions which the time and place inspired. It 
seemed peculiarly appropriate to hold such a 
meeting at the opening of a new year, when the 
wheels of God's providence are rolling forward 
with mighty power in the Bast, preparing the 
way for the spread of the Bible, and preaching 
the Gospel of the ends of the world. This calls 
for renewed consecration to our Master's work at 
the beginning of the year. Another voice, too, 
spake to us in solemn tones. Just as the last 
year was coming to its close, the hand of death 
entered our little missionary circle, and suddenly 
took from us one who was beloved by all who 
knew her (Mrs. Everett), leaving a bereaved hus- 
band and tender sorrowing family to mourn her 
loss. The little children only whisper her name, 
* Mamma's gone, mamma's gone to heaven!' Her 
voice spake to us that day, 4 Be ye also ready, for 
in such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man 
cometh.' " 



106 MEETINGS. 

" Constantinople, Feb. 4th, 1855. 

My Dear Mother : In my last I wrote you 
of our Union meeting of English and American 
residents here, on New Year's day, which we 
all enjoyed so much in its spirit and influence. 
The next day was a full meeting of our Bible 
committee, which was of equal, if not greater 
interest to me. The next week there was also a 
meeting of all the Evangelical of the city, which 
I enjoyed very much; a Prussian presided, and 
the services were conducted in French, but there 
was one Lord and the same Spirit. There, too, 
we have such excellent preaching on the Sabbath 
in our American chapel, from all the good mis- 
sionaries in their turn. They have kindly in- 
cluded me among their number, and I enjoy all, 
both the preaching and hearing, more than ever 
before. They are not only good men, but men 
of rare talent and ability at this station ; and it is 
a delight and honor to be associated with them, 
and labor side by side with them in the same 
great cause. I likewise much enjoy our social 
family and singing meetings ; they remind me of 
those we occasionally had at home, which linger 
still in mind with pleasantest memory. What is 
more delightful than the sound of familiar home- 
like music in a strange land ? 

" But I have just come from a meeting which 
has suggested to me this train of thought. It is 



TO HIS FATHER. 107 

the Sabbath, a mild and lovely day, and we have 
heard to-day a discourse on the occasion of the 
recent death of one of our ^missionary circle, the 
Kev. N. Benjamin. The text selected was from 
John xiv. 2, 3. c In my Father's house are many 
mansions, if it were not so I would have told 
you. I go to prepare a place for you,' &c, and 
the subject was the preparation of the mansion for 
the disciple, and the disciple for the mansion. 
Both were done by Christ and through Christ. 
He was all, and in all, and above all, God blessed 
for ever. The preacher vividly portrayed the 
glory of the divinely-fitted mansion, and the still 
greater glory of the entrance of the redeemed 
soul within it, clothed with the righteousness and 
immortality of Christ. It was indeed a scene 
which every Christian should anticipate with 
rapture, and long to enjoy, desiring rather to 
depart and be with Christ, which is far better." 

"Constantinople, April 29th, 1855. 
" My Dear Father : It is the Sabbath, and 
my thoughts from this Moslem land are turned 
toward home, and those I love across the waters. 
Mingled with thoughts of home are likewise 
those of heaven, our home above, where I trust 
redeemed, purified, sanctified, glorified, in the 
image of Christ, we shall all meet in our Father's 
house, around his throne, where sin, sorrow, and 



108 THOUGHTS OF HOME. 

sighing never enter, and parting shall be known 
no more for ever. This thought alone can sus- 
tain and cheer the squI, as separated from each 
other in distant lands we labor on, each in our 
own sphere, doing our appointed work, till our 
divine Master call us home, having overcome, 
' to sit down with Him on his throne, even as He 
also overcame, and is set down with his Father 
on his throne.' 

" My meditations were divided thus as I sat 
down to write you this afternoon, and also such 
thoughts and questions as these passed through 
my mind. Winter has passed, and gladsome 
spring has come — the season of life, and bloom, 
and beauty. How have father and mother en- 
joyed the winter ? how are they at this return- 
ing spring? True, I have their open portraits 
before me, with lineaments and feature unchanged 
since I left (which I value above price) ; yet these 
are not sufficient to satisfy the fulness of the 
heart. I would know more. Have they grown 
old at all since I have gone ? have the infirmi- 
ties of age begun to gather upon them ? Oh, 
that I could visit home but for one short hour, to 
see and speak a word with each, and feel assured 
that all were well as when I left ; I could then 
return and press forward in earnest duty, with a 
firmer step and warmer heart. But why should 
I distrust ? Do I not daily commend them all to 



THOUGHTS OF HOME. 109 

the guardian care and loving kindness of Him 
who is Omnipotent and Omnipresent, who doeth 
all things well, and whose tender mercies are 
over all his works. 
x x * * * x •*•*# 



10 



CHAPTER XII. 

VISIT TO A KUINED CITY. 

The following interesting account of a ruined 
city was sent to the " New York Observer " with, 
which he corresponded from the Bast. 

"Broosa, June 27th, 1855. 

" Messes. Editors: In company with the 
Rev. Dr. Hamlin, I came yesterday to visit 
Broosa, the scene of the recent earthquake in the 
Orient. We left Constantinople in the early 
morning, on board of a Turkish steamer, and 
sailed out upon the Sea of Marmora, past the 
Princes Isles, and coasting along the shores of 
Asia, crowned with cypresses, myrtles, and pines, 
in six hours we came to Moudania, a small Greek 
town on the Gulf of Nicea. Here we landed, and 
took horses for a ride of six hours more in the 
interior. Our horses were equipped in the orien- 
tal style. Mine was mounted with a saddle of 
blue cloth, and wore a band of colored beads, and 
cloth worked with sea-shells about his neck, and 
dangling brass ornaments upon his bridle. 



PASTORAL SCEKES. Ill 

4 £ Upon leaving the town, we rode a short dis- 
tance along the water-side, and then through the 
rich vineyards and olive groves of the country. 
Ascending the hill, we had a lovely view of the 
valley before us, covered with green pasturage, 
and fields of ripened grain ready for the sickle. 
Wild flowers, the woodbine, blue bell, and holly- 
hock, were in bloom beside our path, and the hum 
of locusts, and singing of birds filled the air with 
music. We crossed a small ravine, and came to 
another summit that commanded, a still more ex- 
tended and picturesque view. We looked over 
the whole plain of Broosa, twenty miles in length, 
cultivated with wheat fields, the olive, mulberry, 
and the grape. The river Ulfar wound its way 
in the centre, and herds of cattle and flocks of 
sheep were feeding by the river side. Shepherds 
were attending these, and the reapers were in the 
fields, gathering their grain. In the distance 
* the minareted city ' rose before us on the moun- 
tain slope, and Mount Olympus towered above, 
piercing the clouds: the whole combining the 
grand and beautiful with most impressive effect. 
Descending upon the plain, we forded the river, 
and refreshed ourselves at a small caffee station 
under two large oak trees. It was most pleasant 
to receive the good-natured salutations of the 
Turks, — Ehosh gueldiniz, safa gueldiniz, chelibi : 
4 You are welcome, very welcome, gentlemen/ — 



112 EARTHQUAKE: 

at each stopping-place, and by the roadside as we 
passed, indicating a remarkably favorable change 
of feeling toward the giaours in these latter days. 

"As we proceeded on our way, suddenly a 
dark cloud rose from behind Mount Olympus, and 
came advancing toward the plain. The lightning 
flashed from it, and the thunder rolled fearfully 
down the mountain side. It drew near, and the 
rain and hail came like falling columns upon us. 
Our horses whirled round and trembled with fear, 
and we knew not but another earthquake was just 
at hand, so great was the commotion of the ele- 
ments. Yet the scene was one of the sublimest 
in nature, filling the mind with awe. The storm 
.continued only a few minutes, and sweet indeed 
was the sunshine, 4 when 'twas past.' It diffused, 
too, a delightful coolness in the air, and cleansed 
and purified the face of the landscape. The ap- 
proach to Broosa, under these circumstances, was 
exceedingly beautiful, as the clear sunlight was 
gilding the shattered minarets, domes, and towers, 
and painting the rainbow upon the dark back- 
ground of cloud that passed behind the city. 

"We began to see the effects of the earthquake 
immediately upon entering the suburbs. The 
plaster was shaken from the sides of the houses, 
the tiles and timbers from the roofs, the walls 
were cracked. Some buildings were entirely 
thrown down in a mass, the domes of the mosques 



ITS EFFECTS. 113 

were crushed in, the tops of the minarets broken 
off, and piles of stone and rubbish filled the 
streets. Here, huge boulders came tumbling 
down the mountain, and crushed everything be- 
fore them, and a little beyond, we passed by the 
ruins of a large silk factory, where forty girls 
were buried in the fall, and some of them crushed 
instantly to death by one of these large masses of 
rock rolling through the building, though others 
lived for several hours, screaming for help. Their 
bodies are still lying under the heaps of rubbish. 
The terrified inhabitants fled from the earthquake 
at once upon the plain, but after the first shocks 
had passed, returned to the city, and gathered 
materials to build huts and tents for safety, en- 
tirely deserting their shattered houses. They had 
just begun to return and repair them, however, 
when a second earthquake came upon them, more 
destructive than the first, laying waste the city, 
and forcing them to flee again for temporary pro- 
tection to their huts and tents. They have now 
begun to return a second time and prop up their 
houses, and build little wooden stalls for trading, 
and some are erecting new residences. The silk 
factories, most of which were but slightly injured, 
have commenced operation, and quite a new spirit 
of activity and enterprise is springing up in the 
city. Yet they all live in constant dread of an- 
other shock without a moment's warning. 



114 HOSPITALITY. 

"It was sad indeed, as we wound through, the 
streets, to see such marks of ruin and desolation 
on every hand. We arrived at the house of a 
Protestant Armenian, just as the sun was setting 
and flooding the sky with golden glory. How 
delightful it is to receive the cordial welcome of 
a friend in a strange land, and that too from the 
hand of a stranger, when a spirit of Christian love 
fills the heart. 

"We came drenched with wet and exhausted 
by our journey. They at once provided us with 
dry clothing, a neat room, and a mangal of coals 
in the centre ; sent a servant with a basin of warm 
water to wash and rub our feet, as is the oriental 
custom ; gave us Armenian cloaks lined with fur, 
to prevent our taking cold by the exposure ; pre- 
pared us an excellent supper from the well-cooked 
dishes of the country ; brought pipes and tobacco 
for a soothing influence, and then sat down and 
talked, till a late hour in the evening, of the Gospel 
and the love of Christ. I remarked : 

"'This was far greater kindness than I ever 
expected from a stranger, far in the interior of 
Turkey.' 

" L Oh,' said they, c when our benefactors from 
America come to visit us, we love to express to 
them the fulness of our gratitude for sending us 
the Bible and the Gospel of salvation. We pray 
you to receive it all as coming from our heart.' 



MOSQUE OF BAJAZID. 115 

"I said to them, 'It seemed like Bunyan's Pil- 
grim at the palace called Beautiful, who was re- 
ceived and entertained simply because his name 
was Christian.' 

"We too slept in 'the chamber of Peace,' and 
awoke to sing hymns of praise and thanksgiving 
to our Lord and Saviour. 

"In the morning, after accomplishing my of- 
ficial business, I set out to explore the ruins of 
the city. First I visited several of the old khans 
or large public buildings, with an open court in 
the centre, let to merchants and travellers. These 
were all filled with ruins, so that it was quite im- 
possible to occupy them. Then I came to the 
Mosque of Sultan Bajazid, the largest in the em- 
pire. Its principal walls are still standing. I 
readily obtained admission by giving a backshish 
to the keeper of the keys. The architectural 
effect of the immense columns, and the twenty- 
four domes supporting the roof, and the sense of 
vastness within, surpasses any of the mosques I 
have visited at Constantinople. It is adorned 
with inscriptions in golden letters from the Koran 
on the walls, and the high altar is elaborately 
wrought and gilded in the arabesque style. A 
fountain is still playing in the centre, though the 
domes are so much shattered and crushed, that it 
is not used for Moslem worship. Through some 
I could see the clouds passing, and the clear blue 



116 VIEW FROM THE MINARET. 

sky above. It seemed dangerous to remain long, 
as the least agitation would have precipitated the 
broken cornices and columns upon us. I there- 
fore hastened out, when an old Turk stepped up 
to me at the door, and asked with an air of great 
satisfaction : 

"'Well, Chelibi, have you any such great 
.buildings as this in your country, where you 
came from V 

"I said, 'Yes, this was very grand, but the 
Franks had Cathedrals much more splendid.' 

" At which he expressed much surprise and 
said, Allah mashallah, 'God is merciful,' and 
walked away. 

" I then with much difficulty gained permission 
to ascend one of the minarets and take a view of 
the city, perhaps the first time this was ever grant- 
ed to a European. The Moslems guard their mi- 
narets with special care, and allow none but Muez- 
zims, or criers to prayer, to climb them, and these 
are often selected from among the blind, lest they 
should see any of their women unveiled as they 
walk out into the private gardens. The panorama 
around was beautiful beyond description. Mount 
Olympus towered . above in rugged grandeur ; 
Broosa, with its khans and mosques, its fountains, 
factories, and palaces, partty in ruins, partly active 
with life, stretched along the mountain side ; and 
beyond lay the lovely plain, planted with the mul- 



MOSQUE OF OEKHAN". 117 

berry, walnut, and oak, and cultivated with, fruit- 
ful vineyards and fields of corn and wheat, re- 
joicing in luxuriant beauty ; while the whole, like 
an amphitheatre, was encircled by a chain of hills, 
which circumscribed and fixed limits to the view 
that the mind might fully comprehend and enjoy 
the scene. 

" Descending thence we took a cavass, and visit- 
ed the mosque of the celebrated -Sultan Orkhan, 
who conquered Broosa in 1326. It is splendidly 
built of white marble, and ornamented with much 
carving on the outside walls. The interior is 
decorated with Persian porcelain of variegated 
colors, and the Mirah curiously wrought in an- 
tique style. At a side altar are two large copies 
of the Koran in golden letters, executed with 
much artistic effect. We also entered the Salam- 
lik, or Sultan's station for performing prayers, 
apart from and above the rest. This was richly 
finished with porcelain and gold, and beside it 
was another closely latticed, for the Sultana to 
join in her prayers at the same time ; the first of 
the kind I have seen in any mosque. He must 
have had a higher regard for the sex than the 
Turks generally. The whole is so shattered by 
the earthquake as to be rendered unfit for use. 
The same is also true of all the three hundred and 
sixty-five mosques of the city ; not one of them is 
entered by Mussulmen for prayer; a severe blow, 



118 TOMBS. 

indeed, to their religion. They regard their places 
of worship with most devout reverence, resorting 
to them five times a day to repeat their prayers. 
And now the curse of Allah rests upon them. 

"We then went to the tomb of the Sultan, a mar- 
ble mausoleum, in which he and six of his family 
are buried. It is situated in a large court filled 
with shade and fruit trees, and built with much 
magnificence, but it is also tottering upon its base, 
and just ready to fall and bury them again deep 
in the ruins. The great conqueror has selected a 
lovely spot for his last resting-place, — at the base 
of Mount Olympus, enshrined in sculptured mar- 
ble, surrounded by wide-spreading shade trees, 
and overlooking the charming plain of Broosa. 
We then descended from this elevated point of 
table land, and threading our way through the 
dilapidated streets, came to Daoud Monastery, 
once an ancient Greek church, but subsequently 
converted into a mosque. In proof of which we 
saw a cross of colored marble worked into one of 
the columns, and another carved with the chisel 
upon a capital. Here Osman, the founder of the 
Ottoman empire, lies buried. The whole is one 
mass of broken ruins. The earthquake at this 
point seems to have spent its greatest force. Solid 
marbles and granites have been rent asunder by 
the shock, like cords of tow, and thrown together 
in confused heaps. Never before have I seen such 



FACTORIES. 119 

broken fragments. Our eavass now gave us a 
description of its effect. Said lie : 

" ' There was first a deep, rumbling noise and 
a loud explosion upwards, and then the whole 
mountain and earth surged to and fro and trem- 
bled as if shaken by the wind. The shocks con- 
tinued all night. The buildings were falling on 
all sides, and the women and children shrieked, 
and fled in every direction for safety. It was a 
scene terrific beyond conception.' 

" We then ascended to the castle hill, and took 
a last view of the city and country around. This 
point in front marks the track of the great rocks 
that were precipitated from the mountain-side, and 
spread desolation in their path to the plain ; there 
on the right the flames burst forth and laid waste 
a whole district of the city, and we saw marks of 
destruction on every hand, though much that was 
beautiful still rose above the ruins. On the left 
were several large silk factories, apparently quite 
uninjured, and we descended through the old cas- 
tle gate to visit one of these establishments. I 
was much surprised to find it worked entirely by 
steam and machinery, attended by factory girls, 
well dressed, and exhibiting all the enterprise and 
activity of a Lowell or Lawrence mill. We learned 
there were twenty-four factories in the city, and 
only two or three were destroyed by the earth- 
quake. The remainder are now in active opera- 



120 DEPAKTUEE. 

tion. Indeed, these and the silk-growing busi- 
ness, form the only dependence of the people. 

"We then rode through the Olympian valley, 
thickly overgrown with vines, and watered by a 
mountain stream, and around the walls of Castle 
Hill, built in the massive Byzantine style, and 
came to an old burial-ground deeply shaded with 
cypresses and venerable trees. The tombs were 
ornamented with large turbans and swords, and 
some with the round crowned hats of Dervishes, 
telling both of the warlike and fanatical spirit of 
those olden times. Passing this, and winding 
through the ruined streets, we at length arrived 
at the house of our Protestant friend, Baron 
Bedros. After an excellent dinner in native 
style, I bid the family a friendly farewell, and re- 
ceived also their cordial salaams at parting, and 
then set out on my return journey, accompanied 
only by a Surigi, or Turkish guide, to lead the 
way. We came down directly upon the plain, 
and passed along a well-shaded road, through 
thousands of acres of mulberry trees, and fields 
of corn and wheat, and pasturage for cattle. At 
length we reached a village entirely destroyed by 
the earthquake and deserted by its inhabitants. 
A large number -of storks, however, had taken 
possession, and built their nests among the ruins. 
Here I am joined by a Turk as travelling com- 
panion, and we gallop together on our way. The 



TUEKS SMOKING. 121 

road is well made and in sections paved or maca- 
damised, but there are no bridges, and we must 
ford all the streams, some of which are deep and 
dangerous, There are caffee stations every few 
miles, at which it is the custom of the country to 
stop and refresh with coffee and chibouques. But 
this was not sufficient for my Turkish friend. He 
carried his long pipe with him, and filled it, and 
smoked on horseback as we rode along, which 
seemed to me decidedly the pursuit of pleasure 
under difficulties. We climbed up the hill-side 
and enjoyed a combined view of the mountain, 
city, and plain on the one side, and a valley of 
vineyards, olive groves and fig trees stretching to 
the sea on the other, while the clear sunlight was 
resting on the whole landscape, like a picture be- 
fore us. It was a scene of beauty I shall long 
remember. The old Turk exclaimed, 'Guzel 
tchok, guzel chelibi,' ' Pretty, very pretty, sir!' 
and drew a long puff from his pipe with peculiar 
delight that this was the land of the Moslems. 
Descending thence along a winding road, in two 
hours we reached Gimleck, and set sail on board ' 
the Turkish steamer again for Constantinople. 
" Sincerely yours, 

"C. K B." 



11 



CHAPTBE XIII. 

VISIT TO GEEECE. 

It was the intention of Mr. Kighter on leaving 
the United States to visit Greece, on his way to 
the East, for the purpose of ascertaining the con- 
dition of that country in respect to the Bible, and 
to prepare the way for its supply. But, as has 
been already mentioned, on reaching Malta, he 
determined to defer his visit on account of the 
prevalence of the cholera at Athens, and because 
he had acquired much of the information that he 
desired. This visit he made the next fall, leaving 
Constantinople for Athens, October 1, 1855. 

In a letter to the Secretary of the American 
Bible Society, he gives the following account of 
his voyage and his visit at Athens : 

" Athens, October 20, 1855. 

"My Dear Friend: — Feeling that I had too 
long neglected Greece, in consequence of the supe- 
rior importance of Constantinople as a centre of 
operations, I determined on the 1st of October 
to make a short visit to Athens, in behalf of the 



AT SMYRNA. 123 

Bible cause. On my way I called at Smyrna, 
while our steamer was remaining a few hours in 
port. I found the work there going forward with 
increasing interest. Three depots are established 
for the sale and distribution of the Scriptures: 
the mission depository in a large square opposite 
the great mosque of the city — they sell many 
Arabic Bibles to caravans from the interior, and 
have much demand for the Armeno-Turkisk Tes- 
tament: the depot of the Church Missionary 
Society, under the direction of the Eev. Mr. 
Walters, in the business part of the town — they 
sell many Turkish, Modern Greek, and Grseco- 
Turkish Scriptures : and the depot of the British 
and Foreign Bible Society, containing Bibles 
and Testaments in all the languages of the Bast, 
and used as a magazine for supplying the interior 
stations. In addition to these agencies it is 
thought that a colporteur is much needed to sup- 
ply the sailors in the port, and to sell and distri- 
bute the Scriptures from house to house. 

"A private gentleman, Mr. Eichard Yan Lennep, 
has recently had printed 1,000 copies of the Gos- 
pel of John, in Greek with Eoman characters, for 
the benefit of the islanders who speak the Greek, 
but do not understand the Greek letters. More 
than 200 of these have already been circulated at 
his own expense. I also learned an interesting 
incident with regard to the Bible, at ancient 



124 THYATIRA. 

Thyatira, one of the seven churches of Asia, 
where a new Evangelical church has lately been 
organized. Considerable opposition was excited 
against the Protestants on the part of some bigoted 
Greeks, and they devised the following plan at 
once to crush the infant church. They sent to 
Smyrna, and bought a large Bible, and presented 
it to a Turk, the chief man of the village, that he 
might publicly condemn the book in which the 
Protestants believed. He began to read in the 
New Testament, and instead of finding anything 
to condemn, pronounced it all good. He became 
more and more interested, and invited a number 
of Turks to listen to the reading of the Gospel. 
All gave it their approbation, and the Christians 
were triumphantly sustained. It is hoped that a 
good work may spring up among the Turks there, 
through the defeat of this wicked device of the 
Evil One. 

" Thence I proceeded on the voyage to Athens. 
"We were unfortunately detained six days in qua- 
rantine, at the Pirseus, as a case of cholera was 
reported to have occurred at Smyrna, while our 
steamer was lying in the harbor. 

" Immediately after my arrival in the city I 
called upon Dr. King, and had a full interview 
with him in regard to the Athens edition of the 
modern Greek Testament, and the prospects of 
the Bible Cause in Greece. He informs me that 



OPENINGS FOE THE BIBLE. 125 

the edition is very well received, though, the style 
is somewhat elevated for the common people in 
the country. 

" Dr. King considers it a most favorable time, 
at present, to make a new effort in distributing 
the Bible among the Greeks. The bishops and 
priests have lost their old prejudice against the 
Scriptures, the government are entirely well dis- 
posed, and the people ready to receive the Word 
of Life. He has a class of eight theological stu- 
dents, devoted, pious young men ; four of whom 
are anxious to spend their vacation as colporteurs, 
travelling in Macedonia, Thessaly, and Albania, 
to sell and distribute the Bible. This seemed to 
me a most excellent enterprise, but I did not feel 
authorized to warrant the expense of three or four 
hundred dollars, without first referring the mat- 
ter to our Committee at New York. Also, the 
doctor is very desirous that a new Bible and Ee- 
ligious Book Depository be opened in the central 
street of the city, on the plan of that at Constan- 
tinople, which would also be a centre of religious 
influence and discussion. This likewise meets 
with my cordial approbation, and I would at once 
refer the question to our Board, whether they are 
disposed to sustain their proportion of the expense 
of such a depository at Athens. The whole ex- 
pense of the establishment is estimated at $500 
per year. 

11* 



126 DR. KING. 

■ • I also visited the small depot which Dr. King 
has under his charge, at his own house. He has 
sold and distributed from thence during the last 
year 368 Bibles and Testaments. I was quite 
astonished at the number of Scriptures, that have 
been circulated in Greece, through Dr. King's in- 
strumentality, since his residence in the country. 
They amount to an average of three or four thou- 
sand each year, for a period of twenty-five years, 
making between 75,000 and 100,000 copies, that 
have thus gone forth through all the land, in 
their mission of mercy and love. 

" I also held a conference with the Rev. Dr. 
Hill, in relation to the Bible interests. His views 
agreed substantially with those of Dr. King, with 
regard to the Athens edition of the New Testa- 
ment, and the favorable prospects for the distri- 
bution of the Scriptures at present. He said he 
knew that ' five, at least, of the archbishops and 
bishops of the Greek church were favorable to 
the circulation of the Bible among their people, 
and the government were quite ready to have 
the Testament introduced and taught in all their 
schools.' 

" Dr. Hill kindly gave me an introduction to 
the Director of Public Schools, who expressed an 
earnest desire to have their schools supplied with 
the New Testament. He stated that there were 
550 government schools in Greece — 400 for boys, 



DR. HILL. 127 

and 150 for girls, embracing 40,000 children ; 
and if we gave ten Testaments to each school, 
they would consequently need 5,500 copies to 
meet the demand. Dr. Hill, who was present, at 
once offered to superintend the distribution of 
whatever number I might choose to designate for 
that purpose. I then called upon Mr. Nicholai- 
des, the Agent of the British and Foreign Bible 
Society at Athens, under whose direction the 
new edition of the Testament was published. I 
stated to him the arrangement I had previously 
made with the officers of that society, in London, 
that the books should be printed expressly for 
us, and sold to us at cost price. He informed me 
that 5,000 had been published, and 2,000 were 
already disposed of, so that 3,000 only remained 
on hand. Of these, I have ordered that 1,000 be 
placed in the government schools, and 300 in the 
school under the direction of Mrs. Hill. He states 
that a second edition of 5,000 copies can be pub- 
lished here, if desired, in three or four months. 

" I was much interested in a visit I made to 
Mrs. Hill's mission school. She has under her 
charge between three and four hundred Greek 
girls and children. They are regularly and tho- 
roughly taught in the Scriptures. Indeed, I was 
quite surprised at the promptness and entire ac- 
curacy of their answers to Bible questions. She 
desired 400 .New Testaments and 100 Bibles for 



128 THE SCHOOLS. 

her school. Dr. and Mrs. Hill have been engaged 
in this mission for more than twenty years, and 
have done a noble work in the religious educa- 
tion of the daughters of Greece. They are now 
reaping the reward of their labors, in seeing their 
pupils occupying positions of honor and useful- 
ness in all the land. I also visited, in company 
with Dr. Hill, the government schools of Athens, 
for the purpose of ascertaining whether the Scrip- 
tures were taught, and if they desired a further 
supply. The first we visited w T as a school for 
boys, numbering 450, conducted on the Lancas- 
terian principle. The New Testament, Evangelia, 
is introduced into the regular course of instruc- 
tion, and taught morning and evening. I said 
to the principal, that ' we in America were much 
interested in the Greeks, especially in the schools 
of Greece, and were desirous to furnish them with 
the Bible as the basis of all true education.' 

" ' I am well aware of this,' said he ; c the Ame- 
ricans have always done us good, and we feel 
particularly grateful to you for the Bible.' I was 
much pleased with the order and efficiency of 
their system, and the bright, intelligent counte- 
nances of the boys. He requested me to send 
him twenty-five or thirty New Testaments for 
his school. 

" Then we made a visit to a government school 
for girls, situated iu the ancient Agora, where St. 



UNIVERSITY. 129 

Paul preached. This numbered 350, under trie 
superintendence of an excellent lady, and was 
most admirably conducted. It was truly cheer- 
ing to know that they were all instructed in the 
Word of God, and taught the way of everlasting 
life. One of the teachers remarked to me that 
1 their Scriptures were quite exhausted, and they 
much needed a new supply.' 

" We then visited the Normal School for the 
education of teachers. The instruction here is 
given by lectures from professors, and one lec- 
ture a week is devoted to the Bible. One of the 
professors spoke English very well, and said to 
me : ' You must be very much encouraged by 
your visit. The Scriptures now have free circu- 
lation in Greece. All that we need is a full 
supply. 7 

" The university, also, which numbers 650 stu- 
dents, has a course of lectures in Biblical the- 
ology. Indeed, a far more liberal and evangeli- 
cal spirit now prevails in Greece, and it seems a 
most favorable moment to commence new opera- 
tions for placing the Scriptures in their schools, 
and distributing them throughout the country. 
This is the only hope for the future of this an- 
cient classic land. I was much encouraged by 
the kind and friendly manner in which I was re- 
ceived by all in behalf of the Bible Cause. 

" Having thus fully accomplished the object of 



130 SABBATH AT ATHENS. 

my visit, I determined at once to return again to 
Constantinople. 

" Most sincerely your friend and brother, 

" C. K KlGHTEK." 

He gives, in bis correspondence, tbe following 
account of a Sabbath at Athens : 

"Athens, Oct. 14, 1855. 

" In the morning early, I went, in company 
with a friend, to attend the services of the Greek 
church. The first we entered was very small and 
humble in appearance, designed for the poorer 
classes, yet it was fully attended. They seemed 
very degraded and bigoted in the observance of 
form, devoutly kissing the pictures of the Virgin 
and saints, and pressing them with their foreheads, 
holding lighted candles, and crossing themselves 
incessantly. Their worship is very like that of 
the Romish church, consisting of reading the li- 
turgy, and nasal singing by priests and small 
boys, burning incense, swinging the censer, and 
various outward rites. They have the lower forms 
of the Roman Catholics without their soul-inspir- 
ing music and splendid cathedrals. 

" We then sought out the large church of St. 
Irene, in the central street of the city. This is 
principally attended by the higher classes. It is 
massive and finely built, though still unfinished. 



PROTESTANT WORSHIP. 131 

A high, gallery above is assigned to the ladies. 
The paintings of the Trinity and saints were con- 
spicuous above the high altar. The service was 
similar to the former on a more elevated scale. 
The priests and bishops were engaged in conse- 
crating three loaves of bread, by burning lighted 
candles, and swinging incense over them. This 
was afterwards passed around and received as 
the body of Christ by the multitude. Such is 
the superstitious ceremony and observance of the 
Greek church. 

" I then went to attend the Protestant Greek 
service at Dr. King's chapel, which is built upon 
his own grounds, and has recently been opened, 
after being closed for a period of seven years v 
The audience consisted of forty or fifty persons, 
assembled to enjoy the worship of God in spirit 
and in truth. Though it was a strange language 
in a land of strangers, yet it was delightful to feel 
that there was the same spirit of faith and love to 
Christ our common Saviour. The Doctor took 
for his text these solemn words : ' To-day, if ye 
will hear his voice, harden not your hearts.' His 
manner was earnest and eloquent, and the truth 
reached the hearts of his hearers. Never did I 
see a more attentive congregation. Every eye 
was directed upon the speaker throughout the 
discourse, as though all were listening for their 
lives. 



132 dr. king's labors. 

" And mucli, indeed, did I enjoy this scene 
and influence of spiritual worship in contrast with 
what I had just witnessed of dead and soulless 
formality. Dr. King is greatly encouraged in his 
labors at present, so that he cannot feel it his 
duty to return home while such a work is spring- 
ing up around him, though he spoke with tears 
in his eyes of his desire to go out and gather his 
separated children in one family, that he might 
give them a father's counsel, and blessing, and 
die in peace. 

" He has a class of eight Greek students in 
theology, sent to his house, and supported by the 
"Western Asia Missions' Aid Society. To them 
he delivers three lectures a week on biblical in- 
terpretation and systematic theology. They are 
thus abundantly qualified for religious discussion, 
and to exert a favorable influence upon all with 
whom they come in contact. Indeed, it seems a 
remarkable providence that has brought them 
here just at this time. I have no doubt but it is 
the dawning of a better day for Greece. 

"He is not molested at all in his work, but, 
through faith and perseverance, has overcome 
every form of persecution. A Greek priest came 
to him a few days since, and said, ' I believe you 
preach the truth. "We must return to the Bible.' 
The lawj^er who was engaged on his trial has be- 
come his warm friend, and the government is no 



MAES HILL. 133 

longer hostile. The truth of his life and preaching 
has thus triumphed oyer all opposition. Great, 
indeed, must be his joy in living to see these fruits 
of his labors, and reap the reward of his faithful- 
ness and devotion in the service of his Divine 
Master. l Be not weary in well-doing ; for in due 
season ye shall reap, if ye faint not. 7 

" In the afternoon I went out with my Bible 
in my hand, and ascending the steps cut in the 
solid rock, stood upon ' Mars Hill,' where Paul 
preached eighteen hundred years ago, and there 
read the sublime discourse of the Apostle ' to the 
men of Athens, 7 wherein he set forth to them the 
Unknown God, whom they ignorantly worship- 
ped, and declared to them that the Maker of hea- 
ven and earth dwelleth not in temples made with 
hands, neither is the Godhead like unto gold, or 
silver, or stone graven by art and man's device, 
for we are his offspring : in Him we live, and 
move, and have our being. 

" Standing here upon the very rock where he 
stood, and in sight of the ruined temples to which 
he then referred in all their magnificence and 
beauty, I realized as never before the boldness 
and impressive eloquence of the great Apostle to 
the Gentiles. Around him was the high court of 
the Areopagus, the Epicurean and Stoic philoso- 
phers, and the idle crowd that had followed him 
from the Agora to hear what ' this babbler would 
12 



134 REFLECTIONS. 

say.' Before him were the altars of many gods, 
goddesses, and heroes of Pagan mythology, and 
above him rose the Acropolis, crowned with mar- 
ble temples, and devoted to heathen worship, and 
filled with statues and idols of gold, silver, and 
stone, exhibiting all the refined art of Greece in 
the days of her proudest glory. And in the 
midst of all Paul stood up and preached to them 
Jesus and the resurrection, repentance and judg- 
ment to come, while 'some mocked, and others 
said, we will hear thee again of this matter.' As 
I stood alone amid the memory of such scenes as 
this, and saw around me these splendid ruins of 
human greatness and power, I felt that God only 
was great, and man and his works were mortal 
and perishing. I felt, too, the truth of the same 
resurrection that Paul preached, and our need of 
the same Jesus that he declared, to deliver us 
from death and the grave, and clothe us with im- 
mortal life. 

" I remained long in contemplating the scene 
and holding communion with the invisible God, 
and then returned at evening through the crowded 
streets of the city to my room, filled with im- 
pressions of the Sabbath that will never be for- 
gotten. 

"The following Sabbath we attended church 
at the English chapel connected with the British 
embassy. The Eev. Dr. Hill performed the ser- 



DK. hill's school. 135 

vice, and delivered a very excellent discourse 
from the words of Paul, ' I press toward the mark 
for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ 
Jesus.' 

"It was indeed most cheering and encouraging 
to the Christian heart far from home, thus to join 
with the people of God in his house of prayer, 
and sit together in heavenly places in Christ 
Jesus. In the evening I was invited to be pre- 
sent at the religious exercises of Dr. Hill's school. 
The smaller girls were first assembled, and Scrip- 
ture exposition, singing and prayer conducted in 
Greek. Then the older pupils were gathered in 
the parlor, and their devotions held in English. 
I was much interested to see these Greek girls 
listening with earnestness to the reading of the 
gospel and the words of exhortation the Dr. ad- 
dressed to them, then joining in singing an even- 
ing hymn of praise, and all bowing in prayer and 
thanksgiving to the Father of Mercies, from 
whom cometh down every good and perfect 

gift. 

" The school at present numbers between three 
and four hundred Greek girls and children, under 
the efficient and systematic direction of Mrs. Hill. 
It has been in operation more than twenty years, 
and has exerted a wide and lasting influence upon 
the educational and spiritual interests of Greece. 

" Through such agencies as these at work, and 



136 dk. hill's school. 

the Scriptures introduced and taught in all the 
government and public schools, there is much 
hope for the future of this ancient classic land. 
" Most sincerely yours, 

"CJ.E," 



CHAPTER XIV. 

VISIT TO EGYPT. 

After completing the object of his visit to 
Athens, Mr. Rigliter returned to Constantinople, 
reaching the latter place Oct. 30th. He resumed 
his labors here with the same earnestness with 
which he had pursued them before his departure ; 
and, having made arrangements for the prosecu- 
tion of the work of Bible distribution during his 
absence, with the advice of friends who were 
interested in the cause, he determined upon mak- 
ing a journey to Egypt and the Holy Land, to 
inquire into the condition of those countries with 
reference to the Word of Life, and to provide for 
the supply of their destitution as far as it could be 
done. Accordingly, having all things ready, he 
took his departure again from Constantinople 
Dec. 27th, on board the steamer Emily, bound 
for Alexandria. The account of his voyage is 
given in his own words. 

"In company with an American friend, I set sail 
from the Golden Horn just as the sunset was gild- 

12* 



138 DEPARTURE. 

ing the domes, minarets, and palaces of Constanti- 
nople. On our right was the wide-reaching Bos- 
phorus, lined with kiosks and country seats, 
stretching far to the Black Sea ; on the left, the 
Golden Horn, spanned with bridges, and filled 
with the shipping of all nations, winding to the 
valley of sweet waters ; before us was Pera, the 
chosen residence of Franks, crowned with the Kus- 
sian, French, and English palaces ; on one side 
was Stamboul, the old Turkish city, crowned with 
mosques, minarets, and monuments, and fronted 
by the Seraglio Palace, the proud home of the 
ancient Sultans, ornamented with gardens and 
evergreen shade trees ; and just opposite, Scutari, 
in Asia, overlooked by its immense military hos- 
pital, and forest cemetery of cypress ; and the 
Princess Isles beyond, standing out in the sea of 
Marftiora, as a citadel to guard the entrance to all 
of these. 

" We sailed all night across the Sea of Marmora, 
and in the morning were passing through the 
Dardanelles, with the shores of Europe and Asia 
on either side. We glided by the modern castles 
of Europe and Asia, and the ancient Sestos and 
Abydos, where Leander was wont to swim the 
Straits to visit his Hero ; and came to the ruins 
of old Troy, on the shore, and the island of Tene- 
dos, near b}^, and on past the picturesque shores 
of Mytilene, the landing-place of the Apostle 



POLYCAEP. 139 

Paul on his voyage to Athens, and cast anchor 
for the night in the broad and beautiful harbor of 
Smyrna. 

" The next day was the Sabbath. We called 
upon the Rev. Mr. Ladd, American Missionary, 
and attended his Turkish service at the chapel in 
the morning. Though the language is a strange 
tongue, yet the gospel always sounds delightful to 
a Christian traveller in a strange land. A little 
congregation of the natives, Armenians, Greeks, 
and Jews, were assembled, and listened to the 
earnest discourse of the preacher with marked 
attention. It is pleasing to find the good work 
prospering here under the faithful labors of our 
missionaries ; and Armenians, Greeks, and Mus- 
sulmans receiving the Bible and the faith of Christ 
in simplicity and in truth, thus rekindling anew the 
pure light of the gospel in the ancient church of 
Asia, which had centuries since gone out in 
darkness, whose golden candlestick has long been 
removed out of its place. 

"The next morning, accompanied by the Eev. 
Mr. Morgan, we visited the old Greek Church where 
the Bishop Polycarp is said to have preached. 
Over the door, I read the inscription in ancient 
characters, Polycaepion Se Theiok Pomesta 
(Polycarp the divine shepherd). It is elegantly 
decorated within, and nine silver lamps are kept 
burning night and day. A large screen stands 



140 HIS MARTYRDOM. 



before the high altar, elaborately carved in oak, 
representing all the various scenes in the New 
Testament, connected with the birth, life, death, 
and resurrection of Christ, — the work of many 
years of diligent labor, all cut by the hands of 
one who was deaf and dumb. Then we mounted 
to the old Genoese castle upon the hill, which 
commands a view of the city, harbor, mountains, 
and country round. Here, underneath a tall cy- 
press tree, stands the tomb of the good Bishop 
Polycarp, and near by is the amphitheatre where 
he suffered martyrdom for the witness of Jesus 
and the "Word of Grod. How inspiring it is to 
the Christian faith to visit such a spot sealed by 
the blood of one who bore such testimony to the 
truth as it is in Jesus. When called upon by the 
slaves of the Eoman Emperor to curse Christ and 
do sacrifice, he replied, ' Eighty and six years I 
have served him, and he has done me nothing but 
good ; now can I curse my Lord and Saviour ?' 
Then he freely gave himself up to his persecutors 
to kindle the flames around him. Mussulmen 
now come up to this place every year to offer 
their sacrifice of sheep at the great festival of 
Bairam. Within the bounds of the amphitheatre 
we saw the caverns whence the wild beasts were 
let loose upon the Christians in the arena, to tear 
them limb from limb, and we could distinctly 
trace the outline of the seats where the Pagan 






THE SEVEN CHURCHES. 141 

multitude assembled to witness this bloody spec- 
tacle. 

" From a ruined tower of the Castle we enjoyed 
a lovely panoramic view of the villages, valleys, 
and surrounding country of Asia Minor. Here 
is the site of ancient Smyrna, the Crown of the 
East, and near by the Eiver My lis flows' to the 
sea, on whose banks the ancients claimed that 
Homer was born; beyond lie the valley and 
River Hermes, celebrated in classic song, and the 
broad Mediterranean stretches far in the distance 
— all spread out like a picture before us. From 
this point, too, we could trace distinctly the loca- 
tion of the seven churches of Asia, in the precise 
order in which they are mentioned in the Reve- 
lations : Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamos, Thyatira, 
Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea, whose ruined 
sites still rqpiain to attest the truth of Scripture, 
and the terrible fulfilment of the prophecy of 
1 Him that liveth and was dead, and is alive for 
evermore.' Descending thence we visited a large 
Armenian church in the centre of the city. It 
was newly built, and contained a painting of the 
Trinity, the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit, and 
the single Eye of Omniscience over all, to guard 
the purity of his house and worship, much fitted 
to impress the ignorant and bigoted multitude. 

" On the following day we embarked again on 
board our steamer for Alexandria, and in the 



142 PATHOS. 

evening passed the celebrated Island of Scio, 
another reputed birth-place of the great poet, 
Homer. 

" ' Seven cities claimed the birth of Homer dead, 

Through which the living Homer begged his bread.' 

"Then come Nikaros and Samos, just beyond, 
and now we sail among 

" ' The Isles of Greece, the Isles of Greece, 
Where burning Sappho loved and sung, 
Where grew the arts of war and peace, — 
Where Delos rose, and Phoebus sprung, 
Eternal summer gilds them yet, 
And all except their sun is set.' 

Here is Tinos and Delos, Coos, Naxos and Paros, 
all famed in classic history and poetry. The 
morning sun rises over the isle of Patmos in the 
distance, and in two hours more we are passing 
just beside it. "With a good glass I could discern 
the houses in the village, and the convent that 
marks the place where the beloved disciple 
received the sublime revelations of the Apoca- 
lypse. It indeed filled the mind with sacred 
emotions to feel that we were gazing upon the 
precise spot where angels and the Saviour him- 
self descended to reveal ■' the things which must 
shortly come to pass. 7 Here also a door was 



REACHES ALEXANDRIA. 143 

opened in heaven, and the future glories of the 
spiritual world, the golden streets of the New 
Jerusalem, the City of our God, the great white 
throne and Him that sat upon it, whose face was 
to look upon like a jasper and a sardine stone, 
and cherubim and seraphim, and a multitude that 
no man can number, out of every kindred, and 
tongue, and people, and nation, with palms in their 
hands, clothed in white robes, washed and made 
pure in the blood of the Lamb, were all made to 
pass in heavenly vision before the mind of the 
inspired prophet. I took my Bible, and read 
again and again these divine scenes, and realized as 
never before their full and glorious truth and 
power. 

1 'At evening we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset in 
the sea, such as one rarely sees, even in the orient, 
as if to give effect to the impressions of the day, 
ever changing ever new, such as no artist can 
pencil. Eising just above the horizon yonder, 
Patmos seems floating in the distance, like an 
island of the blest. Two days more of sailing in 
the open sea brought us safely to our destined 
port, Alexandria. 

"At Alexandria I called upon the Eev. Mr. 
Brown, missionary of the Free Church of Scot- 
land, and conferred with him in reference to the 
interests of the Bible Cause. He informed me 
that therd was no Bible depot established in the 



144 CONVEKTED GREEKS. 

city, and until recently very little had been ac- 
complished in circulating the Scriptures. Within 
the last three months, however, a zealous young 
man from Beyrout, Mr. Spillman, had labored 
with much success as Bible colporteur, selling the 
Scriptures in the streets, from house to house, and 
among the shipping of all nations in the harbor. 
Mr. Spillman gave me the following list of Scrip- 
tures he has thus sold in twelve different languages : 
27 Arabic, 39 Italian, 25 Greek, 8 French, 6 He- 
brew, 4 Turkish, 6 English, 2 Swedish, 2 Coptic, 2 
Armenian, 2 German, 1 Danish ; making together 
124 copies, for 960 piastres. He has also the 
encouragement that his labors are attended with 
immediate good results. He related to me, among 
others, the following interesting incident : A Greek 
of Damascus, living at Alexandria, became con- 
vinced, by reading the Bible, of the errors of his 
church and the truth of the Protestant faith. He 
immediately began to instruct others, and through 
his influence six were persuaded to renounce the 
Greek religion. They suffered much persecution 
from the bigoted Greeks, and one night, while at 
their devotions, they were attacked by a party of 
forty or fifty, armed with knives and sticks, but 
were delivered from their hands by the Turkish 
police. He has since sold eight Bibles in that 
very room ; one of the first persecutors has him- 
self become a devout believer, and now a goodly 



UP THE KILE. 145 

number assemble there to read the Scriptures 
together, and have prayers in the name of Jesus 
Christ. Through the humble labors of this one 
colporteur, so much interest is beginning to be 
manifested in the Bible work, that Mr. Brown 
thought the time had already come for opening a 
Bible depository in the central street of the city, 
similar to that established at Constantinople, 
which would bring the Scriptures in every lan- 
guage publicly before the notice of all, and thus 
greatly increase their sale and circulation. Alex- 
andria has a population of 150,000 ; say Moslems, 
110,000 ; Greeks, 6,000 ; Jews, 4,000 ; Europeans 
and other foreigners, 30,000. 

" I also visited the ruins of the Alexandrine 
Library, where our Septuagint translation of the 
Old Testament was made by order of Ptolemy 
Philadelphus, two hundred and eighty -four years 
before Christ, and the spot where it is said St. 
Mark the Evangelist suffered martyrdom, now 
occupied by a Turkish mosque of a thousand and 
one columns. 

''Learning from the American Consul that a 
steamer would sail on the following day from 
Cairo for the upper Nile, accomplishing the voy- 
age in seventeen days, which requires sixty in a 
Nile boat, I decided to improve this favorable 
opportunity for exploring Upper Egypt, as a field 
for circulating the Scriptures, and also to investi- 

1 Q 

lo 



146 THE COPTS. 

gate the confirmations of Scripture history and 
prophecy, found upon the sculptured monuments 
and tombs of this ancient land. I accordingly 
provided myself with a small supply of Coptic 
and Arabic Bibles and Testaments, and took the 
morning train from Alexandria for Cairo, where 
we arrived the same afternoon, and embarked 
immediately on board the steamer for Assouan. 

" I had been much interested in the Copts, the 
descendants of the ancient Egyptians, who never 
embraced the Mohammedan religion, though 
threatened with death, and suffering great perse- 
cutions from the Moslems ; and thought they 
might afford an encouraging field for Bible distri- 
bution. They trace their descent to Copt, one of 
the four sons of Mizraim, the son of Ham, who 
settled in Egypt, and gained possession of the 
whole country. Egypt is styled, in Arabic, Misi, 
which recalls the old Hebrew Mizraim (Mizrim) ; 
in the ancient Egyptian language it was called 
Khemi, or, the land of Khem, answering to the 
land of Ham, or rather Khem, mentioned in the 
Bible. 

" My first effort to introduce the Scriptures 
among them was at Girgeh, two days' sail from 
Cairo. As I was walking in the street I met two 
of them, distinguished by wearing the dark tur- 
ban. I inquired for the church, and they at once 
conducted me there. It is neatly built of brick, 



THE CHUECH. 147 

'has a matting covering the floor, and a gallery 
for the women above. I inquired also for their 
balas, or priest, and they soon brought him and 
several other chief men to see me. They asked 
me if I were Catholic. I said ' No.' ' Taib ' 
(good), they exclaimed. I told them I was a 
Christian. l Taib keteer' (good many times). 
I asked them if they wished the Scriptures. 
1 Eriva ' (yes).- I told them I had some at the 
steamer. They volunteered to come down in a 
body, fifteen or twenty, to receive them, and ex- 
pressed the greatest delight when they opened 
the books, and read the Psalms and Gospel in 
their own Coptic language. I gave them six 
copies — all I could spare from my little stock, 
and still they urged for more. Two Mussulmans, 
who had followed us to the church and steamer, 
now came forward and commended the Christians, 
saying, { Grepti taib keteer' (Copts are very good). 
It was pleasant to receive this testimony from 
Mohammedans, and to find such a spirit of har- 
mony existing between them, instead of a feeling 
of hatred and persecution. I asked if all the 
Copts could read, and they took me to their 
school, near the church, where thirty or forty 
boys were diligently reading and studying from 
their plates or squares of tin, written with ink, 
which they use instead of printed books. I was 
informed that they number 2,500 in the town, 



148 ESNE. 

and are the best educated and most intelligent 
portion of the people. In fact, they are the 
money-changers and secretaries of the Turkish 
officials, and without them the business of govern- 
ment could never be conducted. 

" My next visit to them was at Esne, in Upper 
Egypt, where our steamer called for the passen- 
gers to view the ruins of an old temple. I was 
guided by one of them, whom I met in the street, 
to their principal church. They sent directly for 
the balas (priest) and several of the chief Copts. 
I asked if they had the Scriptures. They pro- 
duced a copy of their liturgy in Coptic and Ara- 
bic, and expressed a great desire to have also 
c Tourat and Ingil ' (the Bible and Gospel). I 
tell them that I have some at the steamer if. they 
wish. They answer, 4 Taib,' and say they will 
come immediately to the river for them. They 
invite me first, however, into a large house near 
by, where several of their elders are seated. I 
join their circle after the Oriental manner, and 
tell them that ' I am American Inglese, that we 
love the Bible and the Copts, and I have come to 
give them this Book of God.' l Taib keteer,' they 
exclaimed, 'Americani, gepti Christiani, sawa, 
sawa, sawa' (the Americans and Copts are Chris- 
tian brothers), -said they, putting the forefingers 
of their two hands together to express close friend- 
ship. I could speak but few words of Arabic, 



THE SCULPTUKES. 149 

and one or two of them could speak only a few 
words in Turkish, so that we were obliged prin- 
cipally to employ the language of signs. As I 
spoke still to them of the Bible and Gospel, one 
of their number remarked, 'Allah var' (God 
is here). They then brought me coffee for re- 
freshment, and the whole party came with me to 
receive the Scriptures. They formed quite a little 
procession of venerable men, headed by their old 
priest, Abraham, and his young assistant, John, 
and followed by a number of their children, I 
gave them a Bible and two Testaments. They 
expressed much gratitude, and said they would 
both read it, hide it in their hearts, and teach it 
also to their children. The priests, unlike the 
Catholics, were very desirous to have their people 
receive the Bible, and thanked me cordially for it 
in their name. An intelligent little boy, ten or 
twelve years of age, now came forward, and 
entreated me for an l Ingil ' (Testament). I 
asked if he could read it. A Testament was 
handed him, and he read it as fluently as a grown 
person. He kissed my hand, and begged me for 
a book by holding out his two hands before me ; 
but I had no more to spare, and was obliged to 
refuse him, I thought, however- a l backshish' 
would satisfy him as well, and placed a small 
piece of money in his hand. He at once gave it 
back to me with a smile, and put out his hands 
13* 



150 CUSTOMS. 

again entreating me for a book. I much regret- 
ted that I must deny him and others begging for 
'Ingil Tourat,' and could only promise that I 
would send them more from Cairo by the first 
opportunity. 

" Their priests are allowed to marry, and the 
Copts have one wife, and live together in families 
as Christians. They do not worship images, pic- 
tures, or saints, or pray to the Virgin Mary, as the 
Greeks and Catholics, but only to God through 
Christ alone. They have four Qhurches, and num- 
ber 1,500 in Esne. More than one-third, or 500, 
are able to read. At Assouan, the ancient Syene, 
I found the acting American Consul was a Copt, 
and twenty or thirty others resided in the village. 
They have no church or priest among them, but 
have a service every Sunday, and an address or 
sermon from one of their number. They desired 
much to have the Scriptures, and I gave them 
two copies of the New Testament, for which they 
brought me presents of ebony wood to express 
their gratitude in return. I requested the Consul 
to assemble them all at his house in the evening, 
and in company with several English and Ameri- 
can friends made them a visit, and told them of 
our faith and worship in England and America. 
They heartily assented to all, and were delighted 
to receive instructions from us as Christians from 
distant lands. They had never before received 



COPTS AT THEBES. 151 

any visit from missionaries or Christian friends, 
and it was indeed encouraging to preacli the Gos- 
pel to these simple-minded Christian people, and 
give them the New Testament, far on the borders 
of Ethiopia. May the Lord bless his Word, that 
the desert may in truth bud and "blossom as the 
rose, and Ethiopia stretch forth her hands unto 
God. 

" On our return I learned that at ancient Thebes 
there is a large community of Copts, and a bishop 
living among them. The American Consul, 
though a Mussulman, said that his family and the 
bishop's were like brothers, and he would imme- 
diately send for him to meet me at his house. 
The bishop very soon came, and I was much 
pleased with his venerable, patriarchal appear- 
ance. I spoke to him of the Bible and Gospel, 
and related to him what I had already done for 
the Copts. He thanked me sincerely, and said, 
1 It is very kind in the Americans to remember 
the Copts ; and I am exceedingly glad to have 
my people receive the Scriptures.' I then made 
an appointment to visit his church with him on 
the following day. The next morning I called 
upon him at his house. He gave me the Chris- 
tian salutation and a welcome to his home. After 
the ordinary Oriental entertainment, we visited 
the two schools for boj^s which the bishop has 
instructed in his house, and then set out for the 



152 CONVERSATION. 

church. Having crossed the Nile, we rode on 
horseback for an hour across the sandy plain, 
quite to the base of the Lybian mountains, and 
came to the ancient Coptic church that stands 
alone on the edge of the desert. Here they were 
driven by Moslem persecution, and here they now 
toil up every Sabbath to worship God. It is a 
plain and simple edifice, built of plaster, and sup- 
ported by old Corinthian columns from the ruins 
of a Christian church of the age of Constantine. 
As we sat upon the matting, resting from the 
heat of the sun, I asked the bishop what was the 
belief of his church respecting the Bible and 
Saviour. He answered, 'We believe that the 
Bible is from God: Christ is the Son of God. 
Glory be to the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost. 
Amen." I said to him that we would be glad to 
have him come to America, and tell us all about 
his people. He smiled and replied: "Yes, the 
Copts are very poor, and I would like much to 
visit America, and get money to build another 
church in the village, as it is so far to come across 
the sandy plain under a burning sun." We 
then returned, and at his house I found a number 
of the principal Copts assembled to meet me. I 
presented them with a copy of the Bible, and told 
them that we loved this Bible in America, and I 
had come to give it to those who have it not in 
the East. They gathered around me, and ex- 



EVANGELICAL ALLIANCE. 153 

claimed, l Mashallah' (God be praised). I asked 
the bishop if lie wished to have American mission- 
aries come and live among his people, to instruct 
them in the Scriptures and preach the Gospel, as 
they had done among the Armenians. He 
replied, • I would be very happy to welcome 
American Christians among my people.' He 
then gave me his parting salutation, as they all 
did, in the name of God ; and I returned on 
board our steamer for Cairo. I have thus been 
much interested in exploring the Coptic field, and 
distributing the Scriptures among this ancient 
Christian people." 

At Constantinople Mr. Eighter had become 
interested in the objects of the Evangelical Alli- 
ance, of which he was made the Corresponding 
Secretary, and he was charged with a special com- 
mission to advance the objects of the Alliance, by 
organizing similar associations in other places. 
He makes frequent mention in his notes of travel 
of organizing committees among those who loved 
the cause of Christ, after having explained to 
them the purposes aimed at in the Alliance. 



CHAPTEE XV. 



VISIT TO PALESTINE. 



Mr. Bighter's stay in Egypt was short. The 
principal part of his time was spent in Cairo and 
the vicinity, and having accomplished all that 
seemed immediately practicable he returned to 
Alexandria, and took passage for Jaffa in com- 
pany with Mr. and Mrs. Win. C. Prime, whom he 
met in Egypt, Mr. De Leon, United States Con- 
sul to Egypt, and several other friends whom he 
had met since leaving Constantinople. It was 
quite a remarkable coincidence that he should be 
the travelling companion of three brothers in 
three separate years. When he left home for the 
first time in 1853, it was in company w T ith Eev. 
S. Irenseus Prime, who was leaving to spend a 
year in foreign travel to restore his wasted health. 
Mr. E. was with him during that whole year of 
travel. When he set out a second time in 1854, 
it was in company with Eev. E. D. Gr. Prime, who 
was leaving to take charge of the American chapel 
at Borne, where they parted after being together 
nearly two months. 



JAFFA. 155 

On reaching Egypt, in January, 1856, lie very 
unexpectedly met with Mr. William 0. Prime, 
with whom he afterwards travelled through the 
Holy Land and to Constantinople. 

Arrived at Jaffa, Mr. R. says : — " I made a visit 
to the so-called house of one Simon, a tanner, by 
the sea side, where Simon Peter lodged, and as he 
went up on the housetop to pray, saw heaven 
opened, and a vision of four-footed beasts of the 
earth, and wild beasts, and creeping things, and 
fowls of the air, as it had been a great sheet knit 
at the four corners, and let down to the earth, 
teaching him that what God had cleansed, he 
should not call common or unclean ; but that i on 
the Gentiles also would be poured out the gift of 
the Holy Ghost,' and henceforth he became a 
preacher of righteousness to the Gentiles as well 
as the Jews. 

" Thence I proceeded directly to Jerusalem, 
passing across the plain of Sharon and over the 
mountains of Judea. It was with peculiar emo- 
tions that we entered the Holy City, around 
which cluster so many hallowed associations, 
whence we received both the law and the Gospel ; 
where our divine Saviour lived, taught, and died, 
rose from the dead, and ascended to the right 
hand of the Father, where 4 he ever liveth to 
make intercession for us.' From the New World 



156 JERUSALEM. 

we have come to bring back the same Bible and 
Gospel in its purity to this distant land, whence 
we had received it through the apostles and 
primitive Christians 1,800 years ago." 

He records his impressions more at length in 
his letters from which large extracts are made. 
The following letters were addressed to the editors 
of the "New York Observer:" 

" At length ' our feet stand within thy gates, 
Jerusalem.' l Beautiful for situation, the joy of 
the whole earth is Mount Zion. Pray for the 
peace of Jerusalem : they shall prosper that love 
thee.' How rich and thrilling are the associations 
that throng upon the mind as you enter the Holy 
City. The abode of the prophets, apostles, and 
Saviour himself; where the sublime scenes of our 
faith transpired, atonement, resurrection, ascen- 
sion; where the Holy Spirit descended on the 
day of Pentecost, to the disciples, in cloven ton- 
gues as of fire, and all spake in strange languages 
the wonderful works of God. Next to walking 
the golden streets of the new Jerusalem, to stand 
within the earthly city, and gain a vivid, realiz- 
ing sense of these spiritual scenes, yields perhaps 
the highest joy to the Christian heart. To look 
upon Mount Zion, Mount Moriah, and the moun- 
tains round about Jerusalem, Gethsemane, Cal- 



WORSHIP.- 157 

vary, the Sepulchre, and the Mount of Ascension, 
where the heavens were opened, and the Saviour 
received into glory, quicken one's faith and zeal 
in the service of his Divine Master, as no other 
influence can, save the movings of the Spirit of 
God upon the heart. 

" The first day that I spent in Jerusalem was one 
of the most deeply interesting of my life. In the 
morning (though not the Sabbath), we attended 
service in the English church upon Mount Zion, 
an elegant Gothic building, and a fitting sanctu- 
ary to worship God in his ancient chosen dwell- 
ing-place. The Scriptures were read, embracing 
the preaching of John the Baptist, ' Prepare ye 
the way of the Lord, make his paths straight, 
Every valley shall be filled, and every mountain 
and hill shall be brought low ; and the crooked 
shall be made straight, and the rough ways shall 
be made smooth : and all flesh shall see the salva- 
tion of God, 7 Also the baptism of Jesus, when 
4 the heaven was opened, and the Holy Ghost 
descended in a bodily shape like a dove upon 
him, and a voice came from heaven, which said, 
Thou art my beloved Son: in thee I am well 
pleased.' The Gospel comes to us as the oracles 
of salvation from the lips of the earnest preacher, 
and the songs of praise, and the voice of prayer 
ascend as incense before the throne, to call down 
the blessing of heaven upon the worshipping 

14 



158 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 

assembly. Surely, ' this is none other than the 
house of God, this is the gate of heaven/ to our 
souls, and here we do sit together in heavenly 
places in Christ Jesus. 

"It was a scene and impression never to be 
forgotten. ' They that trust in the Lord shall be 
as Mount Zion, which cannot be removed, but 
abideth for ever.' ' As the mountains are round 
about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about his 
people, from henceforth, even for ever. 7 After 
service, we were introduced to good Bishop Go- 
bat, and an excellent circle of Christian friends, 
faithful watchmen on the walls of Zion. Then 
we went forth in company with t)r. Bonar, of 
Scotland, and Dr. Tyler, of America, to gain our 
first views and impressions of the holy city, and 
the sacred localities around. 

"We first examined the town of David, a 
quadrangular fortress built in the walls upon the 
western side of Mount Zion. It is partly of 
modern, and partly of ancient construction. The 
lower stones are large, and leveled in the ancient 
Jewish style of workmanship, which is as dis- 
tinctly marked as the Roman or Grecian. The 
foundation must therefore undoubtedly be referred 
to the time of David when he took the fortress of 
Mount Zion from the Jebusites, and strengthened 
it, and made Jerusalem the capital of his kingdom. 
Then passing beyond the Jaffa gate, and ascend- 



VIEW OF THE CITY. 159 

ing a flight of stone steps, we climbed to the top 
of the city walls. They are built of square 
masses of limestone, and strengthened with towers 
and battlements in the Saracenic style. A wide 
space is left upon the top, and a parapet upon the 
outer edge gives security to the walk that com- 
mands a beautiful view both within and without 
the city. From this point at the northwest angle 
of Mount Zion, we looked westward to the upper 
and lower pools and valley of Gihon, that termi- 
nates in the valley of the Sons of Hinnom. It is 
recorded that ' Hezekiah stopped the upper water 
course of Gihon, and brought it straight down to 
the west side of the city of David.' This aque- 
duct is still traceable, and conducts underneath 
the walls to the pool of Hezekiah within the city. 
At this fountain of Gihon, Zadok the priest took 
an horn of oil out of the Tabernacle and anointed 
Solomon king of Israel. 'And they blew the 
trumpet, and all the people said, God save king 
Solomon. And all the people came up after him, 
and the people piped with pipes, and rejoiced 
with great joy, so that the earth rent with the 
sound of them.' 

" As we looked down upon this valley, and the 
reservoir still remaining, around which the anoint- 
ing of the Wise King was celebrated, the whole 
scene was vividly impressed upon the mind.- 
From this point also we traced the course and 



160 TITUS. 

direction of the ancient walls of the city, and the 
whole was spread out as a physical map before 
ns. Turning to the right we saw the gardens of 
Bathsheba within the walls now planted with 
green growing grain, and portions of Mount Zion 
under the plough of cultivation. \ Zion shall be 
ploughed like a field.' Also piles of ruin and 
rubbish were heaped around, and an air of deso- 
lation prevailed, like a city overthrown. ' Jeru- 
salem shall become heaps, behold your, house is 
left unto you desolate.' The whole not only 
forcibly illustrated Scripture history, but also the 
terrible fulfilment of Scripture prophecy pro- 
nounced against the covenant people for their 
transgression and .unbelief. We now continue 
our walk upon the walls, and come to the Damas- 
cus gate on the North, that forms the great public 
way to Samaria and Galilee. Before us on the 
left is Mount Scopus, where Titus pitched his 
camp and displayed his army to the Jews before 
attacking the city, thinking they would at once 
surrender at the sight of the Eoman legions, but 
they were doomed to a more fearful destruction, 
that the Saviour's prophecy might be literally 
fulfilled. ' And they shall fall by the edge of the 
sword, and shall be led away captive into all 
nations; and Jerusalem shall be trodden down 
of the Gentiles until the times of the Gentiles be 
fulfilled. 7 4 And as some spake of the temple, 



GETHSEMANE. 161 

how it was adorned with goodly stones and gifts,' 
he said, f As for these things which ye behold, 
the days will come in the which there shall not 
be left one stone upon another, that shall not be 
thrown down.' Titus was most anxious to save 
the temple, as one of the noblest monuments of 
ancient art. But the 'holy and beautiful house,' 
says the Jewish historian, 'was destined to de- 
struction,' and through a 'divine impulse,' a 
Eoman soldier seized a burning brand and cast it 
in at the golden window, whereby the whole edi- 
fice was soon wrapt in flames. Titus hastened to 
the spot, and finding all attempt to save the 
building hopeless, entered the sanctuary and 
directed the removal of the sacred utensils of 
gold, some of which afterwards graced his trium- 
phal procession, and were sculptured upon the 
arch that commemorated his victory at Eome, 
where they may be seen to this day. 

" Continuing our walk, we reached the northeast 
angle of the wall. The valley of Jehosaphat is 
below, and the course through which the brook 
Kedron winds its way. There, too, is the garden 
of Grethsemane, enclosed within a wall, and con- 
taining six ancient olive trees (supposed by many 
to be the same that were standing in the time of 
our Saviour), where he fell upon his face and 
prayed, saying, ' my Father, if it be possible 
let this cup pass from me ; nevertheless, not as I 
14* 



162 MOUNT OF OLIVES. 

will but as thou wilt.' Here, or at least not far 
off, the Saviour endured that l agony and bloody 
sweat/ which betokened that the redemption of 
a sinful world rested upon his soul, and well nigh 
crushed the human nature with its weight. ' And 
there appeared an angel unto him from heaven 
strengthening him.' Beyond rises the beautiful 
Mount of Olives, the favorite place of retirement 
to our Saviour and his disciples, from the noise 
and distraction of the city for divine meditation 
and prayer. c And in the day time he was 
teaching in the temple, and at night he went out 
and abode in the mount that is called the Mount 
of Olives.' Here, also, upon this hillside, just 
without the walls of the city, was doubtless the 
scene of the crucifixion. It was outside the 
city in a public place, for ' they that passed by 
reviled on him, wagging their heads,' and say- 
ing, l Thou that destroyest the temple and build- 
est it in three days, save thyself. If thou be the 
Son of God, come down from the cross.' 

" The high road to Huathoth runs near this 
place. And just across this little valley, on the 
slope of Olivet, the women may have stood and 
beheld afar off. c And many women were there, 
(beholding afar off,) which followed Jesus from 
Galilee, ministering unto him.' 

" The sepulchre, too, was probably here. This 
was a place of gardens and private tombs of 



THE SEPULCHRE. 163 

wealthy Jews. The hillside is still filled with 
sepulchres and tombs, cut in the solid rock. 
c Now in the place where he was crucified there 
was a garden ; and in the garden a new sepulchre, 
wherein was never man yet laid. There laid 
they Jesus, therefore, because of the Jews' prepa- 
ration day ! for the sepulchre was nigh at hand.' 

" Here, then, our Saviour suffered on the 
cross and made atonement for the sins of the 
world. Here he was laid in the grave, and burst 
the bonds of death, that all through faith might 
walk in the newness of life. Here, then, our 
hopes of salvation and immortal life centre and 
cling, waiting for the manifestation of the sons 
of God, knowing that when Christ appeareth we 
shall be like him, for we shall see him as he is. 

" How greatly was our faith strengthened 
and zeal quickened by looking upon these 
scenes. 

" We continued our walk upon the city walls, 
and came to St. Stephen's gate, and the wall of 
the harem, that surrounds the court of the mosque 
of Omar. Beyond this, Moslem bigotry will 
allow no Christian foot to tread, without special 
orders from their Pasha. Descending thence we 
passed through the gate, and beside the rock 
where the first of martyrs for the Gospel suffered 
death. < He, being full of the Holy Ghost, looked 
up steadfastly into heaven, and saw the glory of 



164: THE MARTYR STEPHEN. 

God and Jesus standing on the right hand of 
God. And they stoned Stephen, calling upon 
God, and saying, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit.' 
"What a halo of glory surrounds the death of this 
devoted preacher of righteousness so soon after 
the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ ; whose 
earnest zeal in the service of his Master caused 
his face to shine as it had been the face of an 
angel ; and whose triumphant faith saw the hea- 
vens opened and the Son of Man standing on the 
right hand of God. Pursuing the path across the 
valley and bed of the brook Kedron, we walked 
up the old footpath toward Bethany. Here are 
ancient steps cut in the rock over which our 
Saviour often walked to visit Mary, and her sis- 
ter Martha, and Lazarus whom* he loved. Just 
at the right are the large stones on which it is 
said the disciples slept, when Jesus withdrew for 
prayer in Gethsemane, saying unto them, ' My 
soul is exceeding sorrowful, even unto death: 
tarry ye here and watch with me.' c And he 
cometh unto the disciples and findeth them asleep. 
And he went away again the second time and 
prayed, and he came and found them asleep. 
The third time also he cometh to his disciples 
and saith unto them : Sleep on now and take 
your rest ; behold he is at hand that doth betray 
me.' A granite column marks the spot, it is 
said, where Judas betrayed his Master with a 



MOUNT OF OLIVES. 165 

kiss, and delivered him to the multitude with 
swords and staves, who came from the chief 
priests and elders of the people, to take Jesus, 
that they might put him to death. 

" Passing on and ascending the side of the 
Mount of Olives, we reached the place where our 
Saviour beheld the city, wept over it, and pre- 
dicted its ruin, saying : ' For the clays shall come 
upon thee that thine enemies shall cast a trench 
about thee, and compass thee round, and keep 
thee in on every side, and shall lay thee even 
with the ground, and thy children within thee ; 
and they shall not leave in thee one stone upon 
another, because thou knewest not the time of 
thy visitation.' How literally was this accom- 
plished by the Eomans under Titus. The his- 
torian tells us ' the folly of resistance was so clear 
to Titus, that he became exasperated at the un- 
pleasant task which their obstinacy imposed upon 
him. He raised around the city a strong wall of 
circumvallation, strengthened with towers, resolved 
that none of them should escape but such as sur- 
rendered to him. 5 Thus Titus became the uncon- 
scious instrument of accomplishing that doom of 
the city which Christ had nearly forty years 
before denounced. The whole city lay extended 
like a map before us. We could see and distin- 
guish the streets, and the whole interior to the 
inner ride of the farther wall. First and most 



166 TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS. 

conspicuous are seen the walls of the harem, the 
court and the mosque of Omar, upon the broad 
summit of Mount Moriah, the site of Solomon's 
temple. The grounds are covered with green- 
sward, and planted with olive and cypress trees, 
that form a picturesque feature in the view. Be- 
yond stands Mount Zion, crowned with the Ame- 
rican convent and the English Protestant church, 
and on the right are the domes of the church of 
Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre ; while the 
Moslem minarets, rising at intervals between, tell 
us that the followers of the false prophet still 
bear sway in the holy city. It was indeed a 
lovely view, when we remember the divine glory 
manifested and the wondrous scenes that have 
transpired here. 

"We then ascended still higher the side of 
Mount Olivet, and visited the cave or tombs of the 
prophets. They consist of chambers and passages 
that extend far in the mountain. In some places 
they are very narrow and explored with much 
difficulty. Eeturning thence, we walked through 
the Jewish burial ground upon the side of the 
mountain looking toward Jerusalem. The Jews 
love to be buried here, because they say their 
Messiah will come and stand upon the Mount of 
Olives, and they will then rise to dwell and reign 
with him in the restored city and kingdom of 
Israel. Then we came to Absalom's Pillar in the 



Absalom's pillar. 167 

valley of Jehoshaphat. It is cut in the solid rock 
of the mountain, to which the base is still at- 
tached, and is in the form of a circular pyramid 
upon a pedestal ornamented with sixteen Ionic 
columns. A large hole has been broken at the 
side, and Jewish children are taught to throw 
stones into it, in contempt for the unnatural re- 
bellion of Absalom against his father David. 
There is very little evidence, however, that this 
is the identical pillar that L Absalom reared up 
for himself in the king's dale,' because he said, 
'I have no son to keep my name in remem- 
brance.' In the rear of this monument is the 
tomb of Jehoshaphat, said to be filled with an- 
cient manuscripts of the law. And just below is 
the tomb or grotto of St. James, extending into 
the side of the Mount of Olives. Here, it is said, 
the apostle took refuge in a time of persecution 
and distress. Just below stands the so-called 
tomb of Zechariah, who was f slain between the 
temple and the altar.' It is also of pyramidal 
form and hewn out of the solid rock. Each of 
its sides is ornamented with six Ionic columns, 
and a broad cornice runs around the shaft. No 
visible entrance to the interior has yet been dis- 
covered. 

" It is doubtful whether any of these monuments 
can be truly assigned to the persons whose names 
they bear. They appear to be of the Egyptian 



168 FOUNDATIONS OF TEMPLE. 

style of architecture intermingled with Grecian 
ornaments. 

" We now crossed the valley and ascended again 
to the walls of the city. Passing underneath the 
golden gateway, now closed, we observed the 
beautiful columns of verd antique and marble 
thrust into the wall by the Turks, and examined 
the immense blocks of stone on which the foun- 
dation rests, some of which measured twenty-four 
feet in length by four in thickness, and are doubt- 
less a portion of the outer wall of Solomon's tem- 
ple remaining in position to this day. They are. 
dressed and beveled in the peculiar Jewish style 
of workmanship, and no cement is used in joining 
them together. 

" Turning the southeast angle of the wall, we 
discovered an inverted tablet inserted near the 
top, containing a Latin inscription partly effaced, 
to Haclriano Diro Augusto, etc., probably a slab 
from the temple of Jupiter, which that Emperor 
erected on the site of the Jewish temple. As- 
cending the south side of Mount Zion, we looked 
down the valley of the Tyropoeon to the pool of 
Siloam, and the king's gardens that are watered 
from this fountain. Beyond is the well of Nehe- 
miah £nd En-rogel, where Jonathan and Ahi- 
maaz waited to bring intelligence to David when 
he was driven from the city by the rebellion of 
Absalom. Higher up in the valley of the Son of 



MOONLIGHT VIEW. 169 

Hinnom is Tophet, where the children of Judah 
built the high places to burn their sons and their 
daughters in the fire, for which sin the Lord 
brought signal judgments upon his chosen people. 

" The sun had just set behind the mountains of 
Judea, and the moon rose beautifully over the 
Mount of Olives, as we entered Zion gate and 
returned to our home within the city. 

" "We have thus ' walked about Zion and gone 
round about her : told the towers thereof, marked 
well her bulwarks, and considered her palaces ;' 
arid rejoice to say with the Psalmist, ' This God 
is our Grod for ever and ever; he will be our 
guide even unto death.' 

"In the evening we ascended to our house-top 
on Mount Zion, and enjoyed a moonlight view 
of the city, — the Mount of Olives and the moun- 
tains of Moab in the distance. The sky of the 
Orient was pure and bright, the moon and stars 
were shining with celestial beauty, and in the 
presence of the scene we could not but call to 
mind the exclamation of the Psalmist: 'When 
I consider the heavens, the work of thy fingers : 
the moon and stars, which thou hast ordained: 
what is man that thou art mindful of him ? and 
the son of man that thou visitest him?' 

"We rose early this morning to enjoy the sun- 
rise view from our house-top on Mount Zion. 
The morning star was in the east, and the dawn 

15 



170 TOMB OF DAVID. 

lovely with purple and rosy light. Then came 
the reddening rays as the sun shone glorious over 
Moab, lighting up Olivet, the minarets of the city, 
the domes of Omar and the Holy Sepulchre, flood- 
ing the streets with golden light, falling upon 
Gihon and the mountains of Judea beyond, and 
filling the entire landscape with new life and 
beauty. The moon was just sinking in the west 
as the sun was rising in the east, and the whole 
formed a scene of transcendant beauty, such as I 
have never before witnessed in the Orient. In 
the language of the Psalmist, ' The heavens de- 
clare the glory of God, and the firmament showeth 
his handiwork. In them hath he set a tabernacle 
for the sun, which is as a bridegroom coming out of 
his chamber, and rejoiceth as a strong man to run a 
race.'' We then went to visit the tomb of David 
upon the southern summit of Mount Zion, without 
the walls. It was formerly a Christian church, 
now converted into a Mohammedan mosque, and 
is regarded by Moslems, Jews, and Christians as 
enclosing the sepulchre of Israel's king. With 
some difficulty, we succeeded in gaining admit- 
tance to the room where the tomb stands. It is 
built in the Mohammedan style, covered over 
with a green cloth, and filled upon the outer 
surface with the names of Jews in Hebrew cha- 
racters, who have been privileged to visit the 
place. It is greatly venerated by the Jews, as 



THE 



'UPPER ROOM." 171 



occupying the precise spot where the royal dust 
of David reposes ; and they frequently resort to 
the next chamber, near as Moslem bigotry will 
permit them, to weep over their fallen condition. 

" In an adjoining part of the building we were 
shown the large 'upper room,' where it is said 
the Saviour celebrated the last passover with his 
disciples. They also point to a recess in the wall 
as the seat occupied by Jesus on that occasion. 
The room is now used for religious services by 
the native Christians, and the Moslems also have 
a praying place here, looking towards Mecca. It 
is remarkable that Mohammedans hold many of 
the localities connected with the patriarchs and 
prophets of Old Testament history in even greater 
veneration than the Christians and Jews. But 
they seldom reverence any that pertain to the 
life, death, and resurrection of Christ, though they 
regard Jesus as the last and greatest of prophets 
before Mahomet. Upon leaving the mosque, we 
passed a ruined stone wall, where it is said the 
Virgin Mary lived with the beloved disciple, 
John, in his own house after the crucifixion. It is 
greatly venerated by the Latin, Greek, and Arme- 
nian pilgrims, and several were here, crossing, 
prostrating themselves, and kissing the stones of 
the wall. 

" Then we visited the American convent near 
by which they tell us occupies the site of the house 



172 SACRED PLACES. 

of Caiaphas, the high-priest, where they led away 
Jesus the night after his arrest in the garden of 
Gethsemane. The place of the Saviour's impri- 
sonment and mocking is here shown, also where 
the Apostle Peter denied his Lord, when the 
cock crew, and Peter went out and wept bitterly. 
Likewise behind the altar, they have a large, 
rough block of stone, which is said to be the 
identical stone that was rolled before the door of 
the Saviour's sepulchre. The pilgrims kiss it 
with much devotion, and bedew its surface with 
many tears. Though Protestant travellers, over- 
come by the emotions of the place and hour, 
frequently yield implicit belief in all these sacred 
relics and localities, I am rather inclined to con- 
clude, that for wise reasons, for the most part, 
they are entirely lost. Yet one cannot but have 
his faith strengthened, and devotion quickened, 
by visiting the precise spots where tradition re- 
lates that these scenes of the Saviour's mission 
upon earth were witnessed. 

" Entering Zion gate, we now pass the lepers' 
quarter, a few miserable hovels near the city walls. 
They live apart by themselves, are outcasts from ' 
society, and are obliged always to intermarry 
with each other. Consequently, not only them- 
selves but their children are all afflicted with 
this loathsome disease. No sympathy seems ex- 
tended to them, and they are suffered to live and 



jews' wailistg-place. 173 

die in filth, and wretchedness, the most pitiable 
objects in the world. 

4 'Continuing our. walk, we came to the outer 
walls of the haram or court of the mosque of 
Omar. Here we examined the immense stones 
forming the arch discovered by Dr. Robinson, 
that spanned the valley between Mount Moriah 
and Mount Zion. They bear marks of great 
antiquity, and were doubtless connected with the 
works of Solomon's temple. 

" Then passing through the filthy Jewish quar- 
ter, we visited the wailing-place of the Jews op- 
posite the large stones of the old temple wall. 
Here fifteen or sixteen old men and as many wo- 
men and children, were standing opposite the wall 
reading the Hebrew prophecies, weeping and wail- 
ing over the desolation of Jerusalem, and praying 
that their long-expected Messiah would come and 
build again the wastes of Zion. They bowed 
down with their faces to a hole in the corner of 
the wall, and as they turned away their eyes were 
wet with tears, and their faces filled with sorrow 
and grief. It was indeed an affecting scene, yet 
I was more than ever impressed with the stub- 
born unbelief of the Jews, who still reject the Sa- 
viour before the very ruins of the temple whose 
destruction he predicted eighteen hundred years 
ago. 

" Returning thence near St. Stephen's gate, we 
15* 



174 VIA DOLOKOSA. 

met with, an old Franciscan monk, who walked 
with, us along the ' via dolorosa,' and pointed out 
the various traditional localities connected with 
the trial and death of Christ. * Here,' said he, 
1 stood the palace of Pontius Pilate the Koman 
governor, where the chief-priests and elders of 
the people led away Jesus bound from the house 
Caiaphas, and delivered him up to be falsely ac- 
cused and condemned to death. And when Pi- 
late found no cause of death in him, but would 
release him and let him go, the multitude cried 
out, His blood be on us and on our children ; 
crucify him ! crucify him !' Just upon our right 
is the chapel of flagellation, where the soldiers 
scourged Jesus, arrayed him in scarlet robes, plat- 
ted a crown of thorns and put it upon his head, 
spit upon him, and mocked, saying, l Hail, King 
of the Jews !' An old arch standing across the 
street is called Ecce Homo, where Pilate said unto 
them, as Jesus came forth wearing the crown of 
thorns and the purple robe, Behold the man ! 
Then he delivered him unto them to be crucified. 
And they took Jesus and led him away, and he 
went forth bearing his cross. As we walked along 
this mournful way, ' Here,' said the monk, ' our 
Saviour cried Salva Mater, and there by that gra- 
nite column they laid hold upon Simon of Cyrene 
to bear his cross. This upon our right was the 
house of Lazarus, and that yonder the palace of 



CALVARY. 175 

the rich, man of whom our Saviour spake in para- 
bles.' We then ascended the hill to the churches 
of Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre, both included 
under the same roof. It is a large and imposing 
edifice, entered from an open court fronted by 
two broad towers in the semi-gothic style. The 
centre is crowned by the dome of the Holy Se- 
pulchre, and upon the right rises the smaller dome 
of Calvary. We first ascended a flight of twenty- 
two stone steps to the top of Mount Calvary. 
The floor is laid with marble, and just in front 
of an altar dedicated to the Virgin, a hole is cut, 
through which you see where the cross stood, and 
also a deep rent in the rock underneath made by 
the earthquake at the crucifixion. 

u Descending thence by a long passage and an- 
other flight of thirty-one steps, we visited a dark 
chapel dedicated to St. Helena, where, it is said, 
the three crosses were found, that of our Saviour 
and the two thieves who were crucified with him. 
Upon our return a marble slab is shown to us as 
the stone on which the body of the Saviour was 
anointed previous to burial. Then we enter the 
sepulchre itself under a marble canopy richly de- 
corated with lamps of silver and gold, kept burn- 
ing night and day. In a small inner chamber 
stands a marble sarcophagus in which, it is said, 
our Saviour was laid, and from which he rose 
from the dead. Two black- veiled nuns entered 



176 TOMB OF ADAM. 

just before me, and kissed and bedewed the mar- 
ble with their tears. It is profoundly reverenced 
by the Latin and Oriental Christians, though it 
bears no evidence of being the true sepulchre. 
In front also stands a small marble block, on 
which they say the angel sat who announced to 
the women first visiting the sepulchre the resur- 
rection of our Lord. Upon the right as we came 
out, the Greeks have a marble pillar fixed in the 
pavement, surrounded by a railing, which they 
saj occupies the centre of the earth, and marks 
the precise spot whence the earth was taken, of 
which Adam was created. In a side-chapel upon 
the left, the Latins also point out the stone co- 
lumn to which our Saviour was bound, and the 
block whereon the Soman soldiers cast lots for 
his vesture. Just behind the sepulchre are like- 
wise shown the tombs of Adam and Joseph of 
Arimathea, hewn in the natural rock. It is now 
the time of Easter pilgrimage, and multitudes of 
devout worshippers are crossing and prostrating 
themselves before these sacred localities. Such 
are the absurd and idolatrous superstitions that are 
believed and perpetuated year after year (through 
their bishops and priests) by the thousands of 
pilgrims who visit the churches of Calvary and 
the Holy Sepulchre. 

" C. K K." 



CHAPTER XVI. 

BETHANY AND BETHLEHEM. 

" As we had now visited the principal places 
of interest within and around Jerusalem, we pro- 
posed this morning a visit to the village of 
Bethany. "Walking out at the Damascus gate on 
the North, and continuing along the city walls, 
we came to the grotto of Jeremiah, an ancient 
cave or quarry, hewn in the limestone rock. 
There is now a neat little garden enclosed by a 
wall in front, and a Mohammedan dervish has 
built a mosque and praying place within it. We 
refreshed ourselves at the well and then con- 
tinued on our way past St. Stephen's gate, and by 
a winding path to the valley of Jehoshaphat and 
the brook Kedron, and at length came upon the 
high road to Jericho. This is the same road our 
Saviour was often wont to walk on his visits to 
Bethany. But how changed the scene. Then 
the ancient covenant people filled the Holy City, 
and the splendid temple of Herod crowned the 
height of Mount Moriah. Now the Moslem 
mosque of Omar rises there, and we hear the 



178 BETHANY. 

Muezzin cry to prayer as we ascend along the side 
of Olivet. Jerusalem is trodden down of the 
Gentiles, even of the followers of the false pro- 
phet, who curse alike the name of Jew and Chris- 
tian. Yet she shall rise again. Thus saith the 
Lord, 'Kejoiee ye with Jerusalem; I will extend 
peace to her like a river, and the glory of the 
Gentiles like a flowing stream : for the law shall 
go forth of Zion, and the word of the Lord from 
Jerusalem.' 

" In a half hour more we came to Bethany, the 
town of Mary and her sister Martha, with whom 
Jesus loved to dwell. It is beautifully situated in 
a quiet little valley at the base of the Mount of 
Olives, and seems a fitting place for our Saviour's 
retirement and social enjoyment. With this one 
family more than any other on earth, he held per- 
sonal communion and fellowship, and his affec- 
tionate tenderness flowed forth to them in all its 
blessed fulness. Here it was that Mary anointed 
the feet of Jesus with precious ointment, very 
costly, and wiped his feet with her hair, to testify 
her love for the Saviour. And when she was 
rudely rebuked by Judas Iscariot, Jesus replied, 
L Let her alone ; why trouble ye her ? She hath 
wrought a good work on me. Verily I say unto 
you, wheresoever this gospel shall be preached 
throughout the whole world, this also that she 
hath done shall be spoken of for a memorial of 



TOMB OF LAZAEUS. 179 

her.' Here also Jesus raised Lazarus from the 
dead. We at once sought out the grave of Laza- 
rus, and were pointed to a large tomb excavated 
in the natural rock and bearing many marks of 
antiquity. Descending a flight of twenty-seven 
stone steps, we came to a dark room, eight or nine 
feet square, which conducted to a second arched 
chamber. This was doubtless the place where the 
body was laid and the stone placed upon the 
door of the sepulchre. l It was a cave and a stone 
lay upon it,' says the Evangelist John. Here, 
then, at the entrance of this very cave, in all 
probability, Jesus wrought the great miracle of 
raising Lazarus from the dead. How sublime 
was the scene. Jesus said, ' Take ye away the 
stone.' Then they took away the stone from the 
place where the dead was laid. And Jesus lifted 
up his eyes and said, ' Father, T thank thee that 
thou hast heard me ; and I knew that thou hear- 
est me always ; but because of the people which 
stand by I said it, that they may believe that thou 
hast sent me. And when he had thus spoken, 
he cried with a loud voice, Lazarus come forth. 
And he that was dead came forth, bound hand 
and foot with grave clothes, and his face was 
bound about with a napkin. Jesus saith unto 
them, Loose him and let him go.' I was nowhere 
so impressed with a sense of the divinity of Christ 
as when standing beside the grave of Lazarus. 



180 OLIVET. 

He spake and the departed spirit heard his voice, 
and returned to bring the dead body from the 
tomb, and restore the brother to his loving sisters. 
Surely this was not the work of man, but of Grod, 
even the God-Man, Christ Jesus. He wept at 
the door of the sepulchre, to testify how tenderly 
he loved him. He prayed to his Father in heaven 
to signify that he came forth from the Father. 
He called the dead to life to manifest his dominion 
over the spirit world, that 4 all might see the glory 
of Grod, 7 and believe that he was l the resurrection 
aud the life, and that whosoever belie veth in him 
shall never die.' 

" We loved to linger long around this sepulchre 
and feel our faith strengthened that we, at last, 
through the same divine power, would triumph 
over death and the grave and rise to immortal life. 
The air was mild and lovely, the birds were 
singing sweetly, amid the blossoms of the almond 
trees, and all things were in harmony with the 
scene. 

" On our return we took the foot-path across the 
side of Olivet, where Christ so often walked, and 
ascended to the summit of the Mount. Here tra- 
dition has falsely located the place of our Saviour's 
ascension. Whereas the Evangelist Luke ex- 
pressly declares that ' he led them out as far as to 
Bethany. And he lifted up his hands and blessed 
them. And it came to pass while he blessed 



VIEW FEOM OLIVET. 181 

them, he was parted from them and carried up 
into heaven.' Now this point is perhaps only 
half the distance from Jerusalem to Bethany, 
and manifestly cannot be the place of the ascen- 
sion, yet the oriental Christians have erected here 
a church and piously consecrated the spot. The 
Moslems have converted the church into a. mos- 
que, and guard it with zealous care. We are per- 
mitted to enter, however, and are pointed to a 
footprint of our Saviour on a rock under the cen- 
tre, the last that he left on earth when he ascended 
to heaven. It is much worn by the kisses of pil- 
grims. Ascending the minaret, we enjoyed a 
splendid view of Mount Moriah, Mount Zion and 
the Holy City on the one side, and on the other the 
beautiful valley of the Jordan, the waters of the 
Dead Sea, the Mount of Temptation, and the 
mountains of Moab beyond, all forming a pano- 
rama of nature in the verdure and bloom of early 
spring. 

" Such scenes as these, filled with all their sacred 
and hallowed associations, yield the highest joy 
to the Christian traveller. He seems in his jour- 
ney to have reached the Delectable Mountains, 
whence he can well-nigh see the gates of the 
Celestial City. 

" We passed the night in Bethlehem, the birth- 
place of the sweet singer of Israel and the Sa- 
viour of the world — -what sacred associations 
16 



182 BETHLEHEM. 

gather to the scene, and what hallowed memories 
will ever cluster around it! In the morning 
early, I was awakened by the sound of singing, 
and hastened to attend high mass of the Arme- 
nians in the Grotto of the Nativity. It consisted 
of chanting by priests and small boys, bearing 
lighted candles, bowing, crossing, prostrations and 
kissing of the pavement by the pilgrims — similar 
ceremonies, though even more corrupt than the 
Catholic church ; and as I stood by and witnessed 
this heartless worship, I could not but breathe 
forth the prayer that the time might speedily come 
when the gospel in its simplicity and purity will 
prevail in all the lands and languages of the Orient. 

" What a cloud of darkness will roll away and a 
weight of ignorance and superstition be removed, 
when the day shall dawn and the day-star arise 
anew in the East. 

" Keturnins; thence, we were served with a com- 
fortable breakfast by a Latin monk, and then set 
out upon our journey to Hebron. The country 
around Bethlehem is beautiful and well cultivated. 
The soil is fertile, and the hillsides and valleys 
are covered with olives, figs, pomegranates and 
terraced vineyards, which afford a picturesque 
view in the morning sunlight. In one hour we 
reached the pools of Solomon. They are situated 
upon a sloping hillside that forms the entrance of 
a valley winding eastward toward Jerusalem, and 



POOLS OF SOLOMON. 183 

are immense in extent. They consist of three 
grand and deep basins walled with square stones 
and lined with cement, while the bottom is formed 
of the natural rock. The whole is so arranged 
that the stream from each flows into that below, 
and the lower pool is connected with a strongly 
built aqueduct that conducts to Jerusalem and 
the cisterns of Solomon's temple. A large foun- 
tain of four springs continually supplies them with 
pure and living water. It is indeed a splendid 
work considering the age in which it was con- 
structed, and remains almost entire unto the pre- 
sent day. 

" The pools were probably connected with plea- 
sure grounds and a country palace of Solomon 
built upon this site. As he himself relates in 
Ecclesiastes : ' I made me great works ; I builded 
me hoiises ; I planted me vineyards ; I made me 
gardens and orchards ; I planted trees in them of 
all kinds of fruit. I made me pools of water to 
water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees.'' 

" Josephus also doubtless alludes to these pools 
in the following passage : — ■' There was a certain 
place about fifty furlongs distant from Jerusalem, 
which is called Etham. Very pleasant it is in 
fine gardens and abounding in rivulets of water. 
Thither did he (Solomon) use to go out in the 
morning, sitting on high in his chariot.' In their 
full and pristine beauty, surrounded by houses, 



184 VALLEY OF ESHCOL* 

vineyards, gardens, orchards and fruit trees, they 
must have been truly magnificent beyond descrip- 
tion* Our path iiow winds over a rough rocky 
road, and barren, desolate country, though bear- 
ing evidence of former cultivation. We pass two 
ancient wells and tombs cut in the rocks by the 
wayside, and then come to a beautiful valley 
planted with vines carefully terraced upon the 
hillsides and filled with lodges and watchtowers 
to guard them in the season of vintage. This is 
the valley of Bshcol. And these luxuriant vine- 
yards apparently still produce clusters of grapes 
equal to that which the spies 'cut down and bare 
between two upon a staff 7 unto Moses and Aaron, 
at Kadesh, in the wilderness of Paran, when they 
returned from searching out the land. Pomegra- 
nates, figs, and olives, also abound in this fertile 
valley at the present day. 

4 ' Just beyond, commanding a lovely view of the 
plain in front, is Hebron, called by the Arabs El- 
Khulil, 'the Friend,' marking it as the dwelling- 
place of Abraham, i the Friend of God.' There 
is perhaps no city in Palestine so rich in ancient 
Scripture history as Hebron. Here the patriarchs, 
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, lived and walked with 
God: and here with their wives by their side, 
they all lie buried in the cave of the field of 
Machpelah, before Mamre; the same is Hebron 
in the land of Canaan. Here Abram when he 



MAMRE. 185 

separated from Lot c removed his tent and came 
and dwelt in the plain of Mamre, which is in 
Hebron, and built there an altar unto the Lord.' 
4 And when Abram was ninety years old and 
nine, the Lord appeared to Abram, and said unto 
him, I am the Almighty God, walk before me and 
be thou perfect. And I will make my covenant 
between me and thee, and will multiply thee ex- 
ceedingly. Neither shall thy name any more be 
called' Abram; but thy name shall be Abraham; 
for a father of many nations have I made thee. 
And I will establish my covenant between me 
and thee, and thy seed after thee, in their genera- 
tions, for an everlasting covenant ; to be a God 
unto thee and thy seed after thee. And I will 
give unto thee, and to thy seed after thee, the 
land wherein thou art a stranger; all the land of 
Canaan, for an everlasting possession ; and I will 
be tlieir God.' 

" And the Lord appeared again unto Abraham 
4 in the plains of Mamre, as he sat in the tent- 
door in the heat of the day,' and announced to 
him the birth of his son Isaac, in his old age, in 
whom all the nations of the earth should be blessed. 
Here also Abraham pleaded with the Lord to save 
the guilty cities of the plain from destruction, and 
not to slay the righteous with the wicked, until 
God promised that if peradventure ten righteous 
were found therein, he would not destroy it. 
16* 



186 HEBKON. 

i And Abraham gat up early in the morning to 
the place where he stood before the Lord ; and he 
looked toward Sodom and Gomorrah, and toward 
all the land of the plain, and beheld and lo ! the 
smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a 
furnace.' In Hebron also Isaac long dwelt, and 
Jacob, after his years of service in Padan Aram, 
1 came unto Isaac his father, unto Mamre, unto 
the city of Arbah, which is Hebron, where Abra- 
ham and Isaac sojourned. 7 From hence he went 
down with his sons unto Pharaoh in Egypt, and 
became a great nation, and when Jacob was about 
Ho be gathered to his fathers 7 he commanded his 
sons saying, l Bury me with my fathers, in the 
cave that is in the field of Machpelah, which is 
before Mamre in the land of Canaan ; there they 
buried Abraham and Sarah his wife ; there they 
buried Isaac and Rebekah his wife ; and there I 
buried Leah. And his sons did unto him accord- 
ing as he commanded them. And Joseph went 
up to bury his father, and with him went up all 
the servants of Pharaoh, the elders of his house, 
and all the elders of the land of Egypt. 7 A grand 
funeral procession across the sands of the desert 
to bury the embalmed body of the aged patriarch 
in the land where his fathers dwelt and died and 
were buried. 

M Hebron likewise became the capital of David 7 s 
kingdom, where he reigned seven and a half years 



NIGHT m HEBRON. 187 

over Judah, and was also anointed king over all 
Israel. Here, too, lie doubtless' composed many 
of his sublime psalms, that have in all ages pene- 
trated the soul and lifted it from earth to heaven. 
How vivid and thrilling were all these sacred 
associations, as just before the hour of sunset we 
passed through the vineyards of Eshcol, crossed 
the plain of Mamre, and came to the city of 
Hebron. 

" We spent the night at the house of a Jew from 
Holland, who represented himself as the Ameri- 
can consul of the place. The steps and floors 
were as neat as Dutch scrubbing and scouring 
could make them, but the fleas and other small 
animals were as abundant as the grapes in the 
valley of Eshcol in the most fruitful season. I 
found it convenient to go out upon the house-top 
at night and meditate, and the view in the clear 
starlight, of the plain, the valley, and the hills 
stretching far away, was beautiful indeed. There, 
too, I experienced a peculiar delight in holding 
communion and fellowship with the Grod of Abra- 
ham, Isaac, and Jacob, who had here often ap- 
peared to them and talked with them as friend 
talketh with his friend. 

"In the morning we set out to visit the great 
mosque that is built over the cave of Machpelah, 
where the patriarchs are buried. This is regarded 
as one of the most undoubted localities of the 



188 MOSQUE. 

Holy Land, and is also esteemed one of the holiest 
places by the Mohammedans, who have the high- 
est reverence for Abraham and the patriarchs; 
and on this account Christians are rigorously pre- 
vented from entering it. They were formerly not 
even allowed to approach near the outer walls of 
the harem. We were, however, unmolested in 
examining the exterior of the edifice. The struc- 
ture is exceeding massive and has in all respects 
an ancient appearance. The walls are built of 
large stones levelled in the peculiar Jewish style, 
and similar to those around the court of the 
Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem. A number of 
square pillars, half imbedded in the wall, also 
extend around the building, and these are sur- 
mounted by a kind of cornice which gives to the 
whole an imposing effect. 

" We then called upon the sheik of the mosque, 
Hadji Halil, to gain admittance, if possible, into 
the interior. He is a venerable, amiable-looking 
Mussulman, with a long, flowing white beard. 
He received us very kindly, and at once admitted 
us through the large gate within the outer wall. 
As Ave were about to ascend the broad steps that 
lead to the mosque, however, a crowd of bigoted 
Moslems gathered around and declared in the 
name of the prophet, that we should not be per- 
mitted to enter. The old sheik then conducts us 
in a very friendly manner to his own house 



THE SHEIK. 189 

within the court that overlooks the building and 
the grounds around, remarking at the same time, 
'I myself would gladly admit you. There is 
nothing in my religion to forbid it, Mohammedans 
and Christians are all children of God and brothers 
together (most liberal sentiments to come from a 
Moslem sheik), but I dare not do it. My enemies 
would at once excite opposition and create an 
insurrection in the town.' Meanwhile he gives 
us a very hospitable entertainment of coffee, 
raisins, fruit, &c, in oriental style, and favors us 
with many interesting items of Mohammedan tra- 
dition in regard to the lives and history of the 
ancient patriarchs. It was most pleasant to find 
such a spirit of enlarged kindness and liberality 
in a Moslem dwelling in Hebron, where they are 
reputed the most bigoted and fanatical in all Pa- 
lestine. Departing thence, we rode a short dis- 
tance from the town to visit the large terebinth 
tree called * Abraham's oak.' We found many 
acorns upon the ground, and also some upon the 
tree. It is of immense dimensions, very venerable 
and of great antiquity. Eeturning on our way, we 
soon came in sight of Nebby Jonas — ' the grave 
of the Prophet Jonas.' Here the pilgrims have 
erected piles of stones, as is their custom, to mark 
their first point of view of a prophet's tomb. 
Then retracing rapidly our course, we at length 
come in sight of Mount Moriah and Jerusalem, 



190 KETUEN TO JEKUSALEM. 

And we are reminded of the journey of Abraham 
over the same path, from Beersheba to the land 
of Moriah, at the command of the Lord, to offer 
up his only son Isaac upon one of the mountains 
there. t Then on the third day Abraham lifted 
up his eyes and saw the place afar off.' 

" As we approached, the sun was gilding the 
mountains of Moab, the summit of Olivet, the 
domes, minarets, and towers of the Holy City 
with purple and golden light, reminding us also 
of 'the New Jerusalem,' with its walls garnished 
with precious stones, its gates of pearl and streets 
of pure gold, ' wherein shall in nowise enter any- 
thing that defileth ; neither whatsoever worketh 
abomination or maketh a lie ; but they which are 
written in the Lamb's book of life, and the glory 
of. God doth lighten it, and the Lamb is the light 
thereof. 7 

" How constant and lasting are such scenes to 
the Christian traveller in the Holy Land, and how 
they fondly linger in memory like a spiritual 
vision to elevate the soul from earth to heaven. 

"C.KK." 



CHAPTER XVII. 

JOKDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 

" We made our next excursion from Jerusalem 
to the Jordan and the Dead Sea. Passing out of 
the Jaffa gate, and crossing the aqueduct from 
Solomon's pools, we rode along the valley of 
Hinnom, and passed Aceldama, or the Field of 
Blood, filled with caves, sepulchres, and dead 
men's bones. This was long used as a burial- 
place for strangers, and is at present entirely 
neglected and despised. The brook Kidron now 
flows in from above, and winds through the val- 
ley. Our path stretches over the hillside, and we 
enjoy the beautiful views of Mount Zion in the 
distance, which the Psalmist describes, ' Beauti- 
ful for situation, the joy of the whole earth is 
Mount Zion, on the sides of the north. Viewed 
from this point in the morning sunlight, Zion 
rising majestically on the north, seemed worthy 
of the fullest praises of David's harp. 

"The country around presents a pastoral scene, 
and reminds us of patriarchal days. Sheep and 
goats are feeding upon the hillsides, and the 



192 CONVENT OF SABA. 

shepherds' tents are pitched in the valleys. The 
road, however, is not entirely free from danger 
of attack. An armed Bedouin sheik accompa- 
nies us as guide and escort on our journey. In a 
short time we come to an encampment of black 
tents. Several armed men mount their horses as 
we approach, and much alarm is excited in our 
party. But they prove to be government sol- 
diers in search of robbers, looking more like the 
robbers themselves, of whom they are in pursuit. 
They gallop around in Arab style, and make 
many warlike demonstrations, as they cross over 
the mountain. 

" We now come to a vast gorge windiDg through 
the rock, several hundred feet deep, wild and 
grand beyond description. At the end of this 
natural chasm stands the rock-built convent of 
St. Saba, on the borders of the wilderness of 
Judea. Here a company of forty or fifty Greek 
monks spend their time in watching, fasting, and 
prayer. A more desolate and dreary spot could 
scarcely have been selected. The walls are built 
high and strong around to guard against the 
attacks of the Arabs ; for the monastery is pos- 
sessed of immense wealth, the gift of pious pil- 
grims. They let down a basket from an upper 
window to receive and examine our letters of 
introduction, and then a$mit us through a heavy 
iron door below. We visited the church, rich 



MIEACLES OF ST. SABA. 193 

with paintings, golden crowns, and gold and 
silver lamps, where vespers are chanted every 
evening by the monks. The principal then con- 
ducts us to a side chapel, in . a cave, wherein are 
gathered 14,000 skulls of Christians, slain by 'the 
Moslems in the Holy Land. Afterwards he 
points out to us the primitive cave which St. 
Saba entered when he came here to found the 
convent. It was inhabited by a lion, but the 
saint ordered him to retire, which he did at once, 
and faithfully kept guard fourteen years at the 
entrance of the cave. The rough walls are 
covered over with the crosses of pilgrims who 
have travelled here from afar, and fully believe 
the story. 

" He also opened for us the chapel tomb of the 
saint. This is hung around with pictures of his 
prayers and miracles. One of these represents a 
pillar of cloud showing him the place to found 
his convent, a gazelle directing him where to find 
water, and the lion pointing out a place of safety. 
There are several small gardens in the grounds 
of the monastery, and one tall palm tree, planted, 
it is said, by the hand of St. Saba. The rooms 
for the entertainment of visitors appeared neat 
and comfortable, and we would gladly have spent 
the night within the walls. But there was a lady 
in our party, and the monks resolutely refused to 
grant her admittance, saying, ' if they did so, an 
17 



194 THE DEAD SEA. 

earthquake would shake down the monastery, 
and there would be a famine for a year through- 
out the land.' 

" We were accordingly obliged to remain in 
our tents; and there, commending ourselves to 
the protection of God, we slept peacefully through 
the night, awaked only by the ringing of the 
convent bell that summoned the monks to their 
midnight prayers. 

" In the morning our friends of the monastery 
manifested their hospitality by bringing us bread, 
dates, and cheeses, as is the oriental custom, and 
we gave them of our stores, in return. Two Be- 
douin sheiks now join us as an escort on the 
journey, and we set out for the Dead Sea. Our 
path winds up the mountain side, and from the 
summit we have a commanding view over the 
Sand Mountains, even to the wilderness of En- 
gedi, where David fled from the pursuit of Saul, 
' among the rocks of the wild goats.' The moun- 
tains rise around like Alpine summits, clothed 
down their side with verdure, where sheep, goats, 
and camels are feeding. The Arabs point out 
the tomb of Moses on our left, and yonder stretch 
the dark waters of the sea in front. Descending 
thence, and crossing a small plain covered with 
stinted shrubs, we came to the shores of the Dead 
Sea. Nothing can equal the aspect of desolation 
that reigns around, showing the terrible convul- 



JOKDAN. 195 

sion of nature that manifested the wrath of God 
from heaven, in overthrowing the wicked cities 
of the plain. The mountains give evidence of 
volcanic irruption. No fish swim in the waters 
of the sea ; no wild fowl float upon its surface ; 
no living animal inhabits its shore. All is soli- 
tude and death. The water is of a dark-green 
color, and exceedingly acrid and bitter to the 
taste. We tested its peculiar buoyant qualities 
by the experiment of a bath. It was well nigh 
impossible 'to sink. "We found that we could 
stand, sit, or lie in any position without the least 
effort. Indeed, I was surprised to find that I 
could walk erect in the water without reaching 
the bottom. We experienced no particular in- 
convenience from bathing, except an adhesive 
oily deposit left upon the skin, and to those who 
were unfortunately submerged, a most disagree- 
able, irritating effect in the throat and head. 

" But we must not remain long in this burn- 
ing sun and heated air. We soon mounted our 
horses and rode across the barren, salt-crusted 
plain to the banks of the Jordan. In a half hour 
from the sea we arrived at the bathing-place of 
the Pilgrims. 

" There is scarcely any spot in Palestine I had 
so longed to visit as this upon the river Jordan. 
It is so interwoven in our hymns and sacred poe- 
try with the borders of the promised land, the 



196 cheist's baptism. 

heavenly inheritance, that we seemed in a pecu- 
liar sense to be standing on the confines of a bet- 
ter land above. 

" Here the children of Israel, following the ark 
of God, passed over on dry ground. ' The waters 
which came down from above stood and rose up 
upon an heap, and those that came down toward 
the sea of the plain (even the Salt Sea) failed and 
were cut off; and the people passed over right 
against Jericho.' Here Elijah and Elisha came 
and stood beside Jordan. { And the prophet took 
his mantle and wrapped it together, and smote the 
waters, and they were divided hither and thither, 
so that they two went over on dry ground.' And 
just beyond, Elijah was caught up with £ a cha- 
riot of fire and horses of fire, and ascended by a 
whirlwind unto heaven.' Here also came Jesus to 
Jordan unto John, to be baptized of him. c And 
Jesus when he was baptized went up straightway 
out of the water ; and lo the heavens were opened 
unto him, and he saw the Spirit of God descend- 
ing like a dove and lighting upon him, and lo a 
voice from heaven, saying : This is my beloved 
son in whom I am well pleased.' As we stood 
thus on the banks of Jordan, at the hour of sun- 
set, these scenes all passed vividly before the 
mind, and we realized as never before their di- 
vine reality and power. 

" Then two men came down to cross the river. 



MOUNT NEBO. 197 

One passed firmly over, but the other, an aged 
man, trembled in the centre of the current, and 
his companion returned to his assistance and con- 
ducted him safely to the opposite shore. This also 
reminded us of the angel coming to strengthen the 
trembling pilgrim, as he crosses the dark river, 
and guide him triumphantly to the gates of the 
celestial city. 

" We bathed in the rapid flowing waters, ga- 
thered a few mementos from the shore, and then 
unwillingly departed for our tents near the site 
of the ancient Jericho. I shall long remember 
that hallowed hour on the banks of the river 
Jordan. 

" We rode from the Jordan across the plains of 
Jericho, at the hour of sunset and twilight. The 
valley is well watered, covered with wild flowers 
in full bloom, and, uncultivated by the hand of 
man, is still the garden of the Lord. Behind us, 
rising above the other peaks, is L Mount Nebo, 
at the top of Pisgah,' where Moses, just before 
his death, went up from the plains of Moab. 
4 And the Lord showed him all the land of 
Gilead, and all the land of Judah, and the South, 
and the plain -of the valley of Jericho, the city 
of palm trees, unto Zoar.' This view of the 
promised land, spread out like a Paradise before 
him, must have been lovely beyond description 
to the inspired lawgiver, whose 'eye was un- 
17* 



198 OVERTAKEN BY NIGHT. 

dimmed and his natural force unabated.' How 
beautiful an emblem, too, is it of the last hours 
of the faithful Christian, who is summoned to die 
upon the earthly mount of vision, with the 
heavenly world full in view ; and angel messen- 
gers are waiting around, as for Elijah of old, to 
bear his triumphant spirit swift to the glories of 
the New Jerusalem. 

" As we are thus enjoying the landscape and 
contemplating these scenes, we suddenly find 
that we have wandered from our path. And it 
becomes a matter of no slight anxiety, as we are 
unguarded among these hostile tribes. Evening 
came on apace, darkness gathered around us, and 
the lights from the Bedouin watchfires gleamed 
out from the mountain side. 

"Our dragoman shouts and sounds his whistle, 
but no answer is returned. At length we fired 
a signal gun, and were rejoiced to hear the echo 
come back from our tents in the distance. We 
hastened thither, and found them pitched near 
the ruins of the ancient Jericho. As we drew 
near we were met by a company of women from 
a neighboring village, who had seen the Ameri- 
can flag floating from the tents, and hearing that 
a Sultana would arrive, had come to greet the 
lady of our party (Mrs. Prime) with a welcome 
song. It was truly a remarkable specimen of 
native melody. They also demanded a backshish, 



FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 199 

and at the same time insisted upon being admit- 
ted to the tent that they might see the unveiled 
face of their fair sister. Thus gratified, they 
retired and left us undisturbed for the night. 

"In the morning we walked out to search for 
traces of ancient Jericho, and discovered the 
remains of an old fountain and finely wrought 
mosaic pavement, indicating that a city of some 
magnificence had formerly occupied this site. An 
old dilapidated ruin is also pointed out as the 
house of Zaccheus where ' our Saviour abode 
with him and brought salvation to his house,' 
when he passed through Jericho. We then set 
out to visit the fountain of Elisha, a half hour 
distant. It bursts forth from underneath a large 
mound at the base of the mountain, and is a 
beautiful fountain of sweet and pleasant water. 
Its stream produces vegetation and flowers in 
luxuriant abundance as it flows over the plain. 
Originally the water was quite unfit for domestic 
purposes or irrigation, causing death and sterility, 
until, the fountain was miraculously healed by the 
prophet Elisha, who ' ^ent forth unto the spring 
of the waters and cast salt there, and said, Thus 
saith the Lord, I have healed these waters : there 
shall not be from thence any more death or bar- 
ren land.' 

" Thus according to the word of the Lord, it 
possesses peculiar virtue in producing vegetation, 



200 MOUNT OF TEMPTATION. 

and spreads fertility and verdure over the plain, 
well nigh as far as the eye can reach. Indeed as 
the waters were bubbling forth, the birds singing 
in the trees, and many wild flowers were in 
bloom around, it seemed quite like an earthly 
paradise. We were then viewing the scene of a 
perpetual miracle, reaching from the days of 
Elisha to the present, and yielding to these 
deadly waters a life-giving power to make the 
barren land bloom with beauty and rejoice as the 
garden of the Lord. I could not but feel that it 
was greatly fitted to confirm and strengthen our 
faith in the miracles of Scripture history. 

" Then we rode along the base of Mount Quaran- 
tana, a bold and precipitous peak that rises twelve 
or fifteen hundred feet above the plain. This is 
described as the point where l Jesus was led up 
of the Spirit into the wilderness to be tempted of 
the devil,' and when he had successfully resisted 
the assaults of the Evil One, ' behold angels 
came and ministered unto him.' The mountain 
side is filled with grottoes and caves cut in the 
rock, the dwelling-places of pious monks who 
formerly fled here from the temptations of the 
world. They found, however, that the old temp- 
ter was in this wilderness, still seeking whom he 
might destroy, and that we must escape the 
world before we can escape the wiles of the 
adversary. 



BROOK CHERITH. 201 

"Next we came to a wild rocky ravine that 
opens through, the mountain. Down this the 
brook Cherith winds its way to the valley, and 
here the prophet Elijah ' hid himself at the com- 
mand of the Lord by the brook Cherith, that is 
before Jordan.' 'And the ravens brought him 
bread and flesh in the morning, and bread and 
flesh in the evening ; and he drank of the brook. 7 
We were thus viewing the scene of another 
miracle of Bible history, and felt the presence of 
the God of Elijah beside the waters of the brook 
Cherith. An old monk has cut his cell high up 
in the rock, and dwelt there in imitation of the 
prophet. Ascending thence by an ancient paved 
road, we reach the mountain summit and take 
our last view of the valley of the Jordan, the 
Dead Sea, and the mountains round about. On 
the way the place is pointed out where l a certain 
man going down from Jerusalem to Jericho fell 
among thieves, and the good Samaritan had com- 
passion on him, and set him on his own beast, 
and brought him to an inn.' The road here cer- 
tainly appears as though it had always been in- 
fested with thieves and robbers, and on this 
account was doubtless selected as the scene of the 
parable. Four armed Bedouins now came sud- 
denly upon us in the pass, and we at first feared 
the fete of the former traveller. We, however, 
made the salutation of friendship to them, and 



202 BROOK CHERITH. 

they immediately returned it and acted as our 
guard by the way. Thence we came to Bethany, 
and crossing the Mount of Olives, entered once 
more within the Holy City." 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

FBOM JERUSALEM TO DAMASCUS. 

Me. Righter left Jerusalem March. 10th, hav- 
ing on the same morning met a number of Chris- 
tian friends at Bishop Gobat's study, and having 
persuaded them to form a Committee of the Evan- 
gelical Alliance with Bishop Gobat as Chairman 
He gives the following account of his journey to 
Damascus : 

"Beyroot, April 8, 1856. 

"From Jerusalem we journeyed northward, 
and came to Bethel, or, House of God, where 
Jacob saw in his dream a ladder set upon the 
earth, and the top of it reached to heaven, and 
behold the angels of God ascended and descended 
upon it, and behold the Lord stood above it, and 
said: 4 I am the Lord God of Abraham, thy 
father, and the God of Isaac : the land whereon 
thou liesfc, to thee will I give it, and to thy seed . . 
And Jacob awaked out of his sleep, and he was 
afraid and said, How dreadful is this place ! this 
is none other but the house of God, and this is the 



204 GERIZBI AND EBAL. 

gate of heaven . . . And lie called the name of that 
place Bethel.' 

" Passing by way of Shiloh, where the ark and 
tabernacle long continued, we next arrived at Nab- 
lous, the ancient Shechem. Near by is Jacob's 
well, where our Saviour sat wearied with his jour- 
ney, and as the woman of Samaria came to draw 
water, he discoursed to her of the water of ever- 
lasting life. On the right rises Ebal, the Mount 
of Cursing, and on the left Grerizim, the Mount of 
Blessing, whereon the Samaritans built a temple 
and worshipped God, in opposition to the Jews at 
Jerusalem. And here the small remnant that is 
left still go up four times a year to offer sacrifice 
and worship. They live entirely distinct ; and as 
of old, l the Jews have no dealings With the Sama- 
ritans.' 

"In the morning we ascended an eminence, 
and, looking to the east, saw Ramothgilead be- 
yond Jordan, where Moses set before the Israelites 
4 a blessing and a curse/ and charged them to 
place the blessing upon Mount Grerizim, and the 
curse upon Mount Ebal. l Are they not on the 
other side Jordan, by the way where the sun 
goeth down, in the land of the Canaanites?' 
This Joshua afterward did, when they entered in 
to possess the land, placing ' half of them over 
against Mount Grerizim, and half of them over 
against Mount Ebal,' as Moses, the servant of the 



NAZARETH. 205 

Lord, had commanded before. l And lie read all 
the words of the law, the blessings and the 
cursings, according to all that is written in the 
book of the law.' And all the people answered 
Amen. It was most interesting to view and re- 
alize this whole scene, spread out like a picture 
before us. 

"We then journeyed on, and in half an hour 
came to the hill of Samaria. Here stood Herod's 
ivory palace, and this sensual monarch reigned in 
all his ambitious splendor. Here the daughter of 
Herodias, Herod's brother's wife, danced before 
him on his birthday, and pleased Herod. Where- 
upon he promised to give her whatsoever she 
would ask, even to the half of his kingdom : and 
at her request Herod sent, and beheaded John in 
prison, and his head was brought in a charger, 
and given to the damsel. More than sixty mas- 
sive columns, that formed the long colonnade in 
front of Herod's palace, are still standing on the 
hillside of Samaria. Thence, crossing the great 
plain of Esdraelon, and ascending the steep hill side 
that bounds it on the north, we came to the town 
of Nazareth. It is beautifully situated in a basin, 
encompassed by hills that command a fine view 
of the country round. Here the angel Gabriel 
was sent from God to predict unto Mary the birth 
of an infant Saviour, ' who should be called great, 
the Son of the Highest. And the Lord God shall 
18 



206 MISSIONARIES. 

give unto him the throne of his father David, and 
he shall reign over the house of Jacob for ever, 
and of his kingdom there shall be no end.' The 
fountain is near by, where it is said the annuncia- 
tion was made by the divine messenger. After 
the flight into Egypt, we read that ' Joseph,' being 
warned of Grod in a dream that Herod was dead, 
4 arose, and took the young child and his mother, 
and came and dwelt in a city called Nazareth ; that 
it might be fulfilled which was spoken by the 
prophets, He shall be called a Nazarene. 7 Here 
our Saviour spent nearly thirty years of his life, 
and these scenes were all familiar to him. To 
Nazareth also he first came after his baptism and 
temptation, and entered into the synagogue on the 
Sabbath day, and from the book of the prophet 
Esaias preached the acceptable year of the Lord. 
" There are two missionaries of the English 
Church Missionary Society established here. They 
have a school numbering forty-one children, of 
whom thirty are Protestants, six Greeks, four 
Latins, and one Armenian. The Scriptures in 
the Old and New Testaments are used as a text- 
book. During the last year fifteen Bibles in 
Arabic and six in Italian have been sold and dis- 
tributed among the people. They have now de- 
cided, however, to confine themselves entirely to 
the sale of Scriptures, and no longer give them 
gratuitously as heretofore. Since, about twenty 



SEA OF GALILEE. 207 

Arabic Bibles Lave recently been collected in the 
convent, and burned by the Catholic priests. As 
the leaves were crackling in the flames, they shout- 
ed, ' This is the voice of the devil.' Notwithstand- 
ing, there is an increased desire for the Scriptures 
among all classes. Even the Catholics would have 
the Bible, but for the prohibition of the priests. 
Nazareth has a population of about 4,500, as fol- 
lows: Moslems, 2,300; Greeks, 1,000; Latins, 
500 ; Maronites, 200 ; Greek Catholics, 250 ; Pro- 
testants, 100. 

"We set out on our journey the next day, 
crossing the summit of Mount Tabor, and in the 
evening arrived at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee. 

" This was, to me, one of the most interesting 
localities in the Holy Land. Around these shores 
the Saviour loved to dwell, and here most of his 
mighty works were done. Simon Peter, and 
Andrew his brother, James the son of Zebedee, 
and John his brother, were fishermen of this sea, 
and were called thence by our Saviour to follow 
him. On this lake he came walking to them on 
the water ; and here, when the winds and waves 
arose, he stilled the tempest with his word, say- 
ing, £ Peace, be still;' and suddenly there was a 
great calm. On a mountain near by he miracu- 
lously fed the multitude of 4,000 men with ' seven 
loaves and a few little fishes;' and upon another 
delivered his sermon on the mount to his disciples. 



208 TRANSFIGURATION. 

Here stood Capernaum, Chorazin, and Bethsaida, 
whose terrible overthrow the Saviour predicted 
because of their unbelief, and their ruined sites 
only remain to attest the truth of his prophecy. 
We spent a delightful Sabbath on the shores of 
the Sea of Galilee, and joined in the worship of 
our Divine Kedeemer, who walked here clothed 
in humanity. Tiberias is one of the holy cities 
of the Jews, and they are miserable and bigoted 
in the extreme. No missionary lives among 
them, and no Scriptures have been distributed. 
I called upon a Greek priest, and had a pleasant 
interview. He wished a few copies of the Scrip- 
tures for his people. 

" In two days more across the hills and along 
the valley of the Jordan, we came to Banias, the 
ancient Cesarea Philippi. Here we traced the 
last footsteps of our Saviour in the north of Pales- 
tine. It was pleasant, also, to leave the Holy 
Land with the scene of the transfiguration im- 
pressed last upon the mind ; for it was doubtless 
upon one of these mountains near by that this 
sublime event occurred. c When Jesus came into 
the coasts of Cesarea Philippi, he asked his dis- 
ciples, Whom do men say that I, the son of man, 
am?' ' Then he showed unto his disciples that 
he must go unto Jerusalem, and suffer many 
things of the elders and chief priests and scribes, 
and be killed, and be raised again the third day ;' 



DAMASCUS. 209 

and lie also spake of his coming ' in the glory of 
his Father, with his angels; and then he shall 
reward every man according to his works.' Im- 
mediately following this conversation as related 
by Matthew;, it is said : i And after six days Jesus 
taketh Peter, James, and John his brother, and 
bringeth them up into a high mountain apart, and 
was transfigured before them: and his face did 
shine as the sun, and his raiment was white as 
the light. And, behold, there appeared unto 
them Moses and Blias talking with him. . . . Be- 
hold, a bright cloud overshadowed them : and be- 
hold a voice out of the cloud, which said, This is 
my beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased : 
hear ye him.' Such was our last view of the 
Saviour in the Holy Land — transfigured, glori- 
fied, as he will come again to judge the world, 
and bring his redeemed ones to reign with him in 
heaven. 

" Then we crossed the Anti-Lebanon range of 
mountains, and in two days more reached Damas- 
cus. Here I met with two missionaries of the 
Irish Presbyterian Church, the Eev. Messrs. Kobe- 
son and Porter, and three American missionaries 
of the Associate Eeformed Presbyterian Church, 
Dr. Paulding and the Eev. Messrs. Frazer and 
Lansing. They are laboring harmoniously, side 
by side, in the same field, to spread the Bible and 
preach the Gospel among the vast multitudes of 
18* 



210 SCHOOLS. 

this city. Miss Dales of Philadelphia, is also as- 
sociated with them in the missionary work. Da- 
mascus is said to contain a population of 125,000; 
viz. Moslems, 100,000; Greeks (speaking Arabic), 
8,000; Jews, 5,000; Greek Catholics, 8,000; 
and a few Armenians, Maronites, Druses, and 
Syrians. 

" There have been sold during the last year 259 
Arabic Scriptures, and thirty -seven copies in He- 
brew, Turkish, and English. The school for boys 
numbers thirty-seven, principally from the Greeks. 
I was much gratified in attending a Bible class of 
Greek boys instructed by the Eev. Mr. Porter. 
He examined them in their regular course of les- 
sons on the seventeenth and eighteenth chapters 
of Isaiah, upon the subject of the burden of Da- 
mascus and Egypt. They appeared very intelli- 
gent and much interested in the Scriptures. I 
also visited the girls' school under the charge of 
Miss Dales : they repeated portions of the Psalms 
and New Testament very readily and well, and 
seemed delighted to study their lessons from the 
Bible. The Greek Patriarch has also a large 
school, in which the Scriptures are taught. I 
called upon him in behalf of the Bible cause, and 
he appeared much interested to hear of the Bible 
work and the progress of religious liberty at Con- 
stantinople. 

" There is a new interest with regard to the 



THE BIBLE. 211 

Scriptures springing up at Damascus. A resolu- 
tion was taken at their last station meeting to 
establish a Bible depot in the principal street of the 
city. This surely is encouraging in the ancient 
stronghold of Moslem intolerance and fanaticism. 

"Keturning by way of Baalbeck, the ancient 
temple of Baal, I arrived at Beyroot in time to 
attend the annual meeting of the Syrian mission, 
and present the subject of the Bible interests be- 
fore the brethren of all the stations assembled in 
their general council. They gave me a very kind 
reception, and assigned a special hour for listening 
to statements respecting the Bible work at Con- 
stantinople, in Egypt, Palestine, and Syria. They 
also, on their part, presented encouraging reports 
from each of their fields of labor. 

"The population to which their missionary ef- 
fort is directed, in the towns and villages on and 
around Mount Lebanon, consists of the following 
classes: Moslems, 51,000; Greeks, 45,500; Ma- 
ronites, 24,000; Druses, 15,500. Their principal 
success, however, is attained among the Greeks. 
They have established Protestant schools at the 
different stations, in which 550 boys and 250 girls 
are taught the Scriptures. 

" There have been distributed and sold by this 
mission during the last year, 582 Arabic Scrip- 
tures, five Turkish, nine Hebrew, and two Syriac, 
The American Bible Society have in press at Bey- 



212 DK. SMITH'S TRANSLATION. 

root a new and complete translation of the whole 
Bible in Arabic, by the Bev. Dr. Eli Smith. The 
printing of the Old Testament with references has 
proceeded as far as Exodus, and the New as far 
as the eighth chapter of Matthew. The work must 
necessarily progress slowly by reason of the ex- 
treme accuracy of the translator and editor. Dr. 
Smith gave me the following account of the 
thorough system he pursues with regard to it : 

" The translation is first made directly from the 
original by one of the native helpers, to give the 
style of the Arabic. This Dr. Smith works over 
with all the critical assistance of books he can com- 
mand. . He then calls in another native helper, 
and they criticise together. A fair copy of this is 
made. He then goes over the whole de novo with 
the assistance of a third native helper ; after which 
another copy is transcribed, and the work is put 
in press. Twenty or thirty proofs of this are 
struck off, and sent to the bishop of Jerusalem, to 
Cairo, Damascus, to all the stations in Syria, and 
several natives for examination. By this means 
the translator learns what words or phrases may 
not be understood in any of the sectional dialects. 
In twenty or thirty days these proofs are all 
received, their suggestions examined, and a cor- 
rected copy prepared for printing. Two impor- 
tant points are thus gained — the correctness of the 
version, and the approbation of all the different 



de. smith's tkanslation. 213 

societies concerned. The Arabic, like other 
Eastern languages, has both a classic usage and 
modern dialect. The doctor follows the classic 
style in language and grammar, but only so far 
as it is intelligible to the common people. It 
will, consequently, be understood by the im- 
mense Arabic-speaking population of Syria, 
Egypt, Mosul, Bagdad, and India. 

"He places various readings in the margin, as 
in the English version. Such is the carefully 
elaborate and accurate system pursued, to make 
this the most perfect translation of the Bible in 
any language in the world. The first translation 
has already been made of the Pentateuch, the 
seven minor prophets, and the entire New Testa- 
ment. It will, however, require five or six years 
to complete the whole at the present rate of pro- 
gress. Yet the demand is so urgent, that a reso- 
lution has been taken to suspend for the present 
the Old, and hasten forward the New Testament 
as fast as possible. I deeply regret to inform our 
Board that the health of Dr. Smith is very much 
impaired by his arduous labors, so that he will be 
obliged to discontinue his duties for the summer. 
The earnest prayer of all is that he may be 
speedily restored and spared, by the blessing of 
(rod, to complete this great work of his life. 

"I also had the pleasure of meeting with my 
excellent predecessor, the Kev. S. H. Calhoun, at 



214 MISS DIX. 

Bey root, and conferring with Mm in regard to the 
Bible work. He sends his kind remembrance to 
all his old friends. 

"My visit to Egypt, Palestine, and Syria, has 
thus been of the greatest interest, and J trust will 
be productive of the most lasting and important 
results in behalf of the Bible Cause in the East." 

" Affectionately, yours, 

"JO. K Kighter." 

On Thursday, April 19, he notes in his journal, 
" In sight of the domes and minarets of Stamboul, 
and thankful for a safe return from a long and 
happy journey." 

The spring and summer were spent at Constan- 
tinople in the work of Bible distribution, and in 
laying and carrying out his plans for spreading it 
over the East. He visited the hospitals as be- 
fore, taking with him the word of life for the 
poor soldiers. There was no difficulty in gaining 
access to them, and his visits were most gratefully 
received. On one of these occasions he accom- 
panied the philanthropist, Miss Dix, who was 
then in the East, on her mission of mercy to the 
asylums of the unfortunate. During the month 
of August he had an attack of fever which con- 
fined him to his room for many days, and pre- 



MR. SPENCE. 215 

vented much, active service during the month. 
The physician pronounced the seat of his disease 
to be his liver, and it is impossible to say what 
connexion it may have had with his subsequent 
fatal illness. 

During all his residence at Constantinople his 
intercourse with the missionaries was a source of 
the highest mutual pleasure, and his relations to 
the Hon. Mr. Spence, Minister from the United 
States to Turkey, were of the most friendly and 
agreeable character, as will appear from the let- 
ters which will be found in the concluding part 
of this volume, and which bear the highest testi- 
mony to Mr. Eighter's worth, and to the estima- 
tion in which he was held. 



CHAPTBE XIX. 

J0UKNEY TO NINEVEH. 

On the first of September lie became acquainted 
with the Eev. Mr. Jones, Secretary of the Turk- 
ish Missions Aid Society, who was about to visit 
the interior stations of Asia Minor. Mr. E. al- 
most immediately determined on joining him in 
furtherance of the great object which had called 
him to the East. Accordingly he made his ar- 
rangements for the departure, which, owing to 
the detention of the vessel, was deferred until the 
16th. In the meanwhile he mentions in his 
journal, under date of September 14, attending 
at Pera the baptism of the first Christian Moham- 
medan child, Henry Julius Williams, by Eev. 
Dr. Goodell, at the chapel of the Dutch Embassy, 
as an occasion of deep interest. He took his 
departure from Constantinople for the last time, 
as it afterwards appeared, September 16th. A 
beautiful rainbow marked the morning on which 
he set sail, and hastily bidding his friends fare- 
well, he went on board the steamer Imperial 
Eagle, with the Eev. Mr. Jones. 



MEETING. 217 

Mr. E. gives the following account of his 
journey : 

" We left Constantinople on the 16th and sailed 
two days across the Black Sea to Samsoun upon 
the coast. Here w r e took horses and rode three 
days to Marsovan, for several years a missionary 
station of the American Board. The Protestant 
pastor, Hohanes, and one of the native brethren 
came out to meet us two hours before our arrival, 
and gave us a cordial welcome. And as we 
reached the city, many Armenians hastened to 
give us their salutations as brethren in Christ. It 
was most pleasant to be thus kindly welcomed as 
Christians in a strange land. 

" In the evening a special meeting was held, and 
I stated to them the object of my visit — to fur- 
nish the Bible in every language to all who desired 
it in the East. They expressed their thankfulness 
very sincerely, and wished me to convey their 
gratitude to the American Bible Society for giv- 
ing them the pure Bible and Gospel in the 
modern Armenian language, which all can under- 
stand, that each one for himself may read God's 
Word and be instructed in the way of everlast- 
ing salvation. The next day I visited the book- 
store, near the bazaar, in the central street of the 
city. Here the Scriptures are publicly kept for 
sale in Armenian, Turkish, and Greek. There 
19 



218 SHEIK. 

have been sold during the last 3^ear, twenty-four 
Armenian and eleven Greek Bibles and Testa- 
ments. The demand for the Scriptures is also 
increasing. I received an order for the follow- 
ing: Sixty Grasco-Turkisk Testaments; twenty 
Turkish Bibles ; twenty Turkish Psalms ; thirty 
large Armenian Bibles ; thirty Armenian Testa- 
ments ; forty Armeno-Turkish Testaments, mak- 
ing 200 copies of the Scriptures for the ensuing 
year. We then visited the Protestant school, 
which numbers forty children. We found them 
reading and studying the Scriptures. At morn- 
ing and evening prayer also, the Old and New 
Testaments are read and explained. I likewise 
made a visit to the native Armenian school. The 
teacher received me very politely, said he had 
the Bible and Gospel in the Armenian language, 
which he taught daily to his pupils ; and also, 
that he desired an additional supply. 

" We afterwards enjoyed a very interesting visit 
with a sheik or chief of a sect of Dervishes (Mo- 
hammedan monks), who have a convent near 
Marsovan, to which many pilgrims resort. He 
received us very politely in his library room, and 
first presented his little boy to us, in token of 
mutual friendship. He says he has the Bible and 
Testament, and has carefully read and studied 
both. He himself copied the gospel of Matthew 
in manuscript several years since. He borrowed 



INTERESTING CONVERSATION". 219 

it by night from a friendly Turk in the seraglio, 
wrote it as he could, and returned it in the day- 
time for fear of discovery. I asked him, ' What 
is your opinion of the Bible?' Said he, 'It 
would take me two days to tell you. The Word 
of God is everlasting. You cannot cut it, cannot 
burn it, cannot destroy it. It is in the world for 
ever. It teaches Christ, the Gospel of love — love 
to God and love to man. In Jesus we love one 
another as brothers. There are three kinds of 
love : first, common friendship ; second, to lay 
down one's life for his friends ; third, to love 
your enemies. All these are taught in the Bible. 
There is a hidden treasure in the gospel that will be 
brought to light more and more in coming time, 
till it is known and prized by all the world.' I 
told him that many Mussulmen in Constanti- 
nople are at present seeking for the Bible and 
valuing it much, and we hope soon all will have 
it. He replied, ' I must not speak publicly my 
sentiments now, or my head will be taken off at 
once.' It was most gratifying to find him so en- 
lightened and imbued with the spirit and love of 
the Gospel. He says, ' I love the gospel of John, 
the beloved disciple, who fully unfolds the tender 
love of Jesus. That iron yonder is cold, but 
when you put it in the fire it becomes warm 'and 
heated. So when we come together we mav be 
strangers at first, but our hearts soon grow warm 



220 MARSOVAN. 

with, the love of Christ.' And as we came to 
separate he embraced and kissed us affectionately, 
and with tears in his eyes expressed the hope 
that we might meet in heaven. He is but one of 
a large class of Mussulmen in the East who are 
becoming enlightened by studying the Scriptures, 
but are kept from embracing Christianity through 
fear of persecution and death. 

" In a town named Soungoloo, twenty hours dis- 
tant from Marsovan, a hojah, or Turkish teacher, 
not long since became possessed of a copy of the 
Scriptures. He continued to study it with much 
interest, and then began to explain it to others ; 
and now, it is said, as many as one thousand are 
interested in seeking after the truth. As we left 
Marsovan, the pastor, the children, and the native 
brethren accompanied us some distance on our 
journey, and then took leave of us with much 
thankfulness and gratitude for our visit in behalf 
of the Gospel and the Bible Cause. We arrived 
the same day at Amasia. Here I called upon the 
Armenian archbishop, and stated to him the 
object of my mission — to furnish all, who desire 
it, with the Word of God, without note or com- 
ment. He received me with great politeness, but 
said that all his people were supplied with the 
Scriptures. 

" In two days more we reached Tocat, and 
were again welcomed by a delegation of the mis- 



TOCAT. 221 

sionaries and the native brethren an hour before 
our arrival in the city. This is in many respects 
the most important interior station of the mission. 
The Eev. Mr. Van Lennep has here a theological 
seminary, in which ten pious young men are pre- 
paring to preach the Gospel. In vacations they 
go out into all the towns and villages round about 
and labor as Bible colporteurs and Scripture 
readers among the native population. In a city 
ten hours distant they remained up all night, on 
one occasion, in arguing from the Scriptures and 
establishing the truth by the Word of God. 

The next day is the Sabbath, and I was much 
interested in attending their native services in 
Armenian and Turkish. In the evening a special 
meeting was called, and I explained to them the 
object of my visit, and the desire of the American 
Bible Society to aid in supplying the Scriptures 
in all the languages of the Bast. I also gave them 
an account of my visit to the soldiers in the Crimea, 
to the Copts in Egypt, and of my journey in Pa- 
lestine and Syria. They were deeply interested, 
and desired me to thank 'that great and good 
Society for remembering also the Armenians in 
Asia Minor.' The Protestant Church numbers 
twenty-five members, and the congregation usually 
from forty to sixty. There is also a Sabbath 
school and day school, in which the Scriptures are 
taught to the children. The next day I visited 
19* 



222 GRAVE OF HENRY MARTIN. 

the Bible depot, a large room in the principal 
street of the city. There have been sold during 
the last year, ninety-seven copies of the Scriptures 
and parts of Scriptures in Armenian, Greek, and 
Turkish. One hundred and ninety-three copies 
have also been distributed by the colporteurs in 
the city, and the towns, and villages around. 
Here, likewise, the demand is increasing: two 
hundred additional copies have just been ordered 
from Constantinople to supply the depository. 

" In the afternoon I made a visit to the grave 
of Henry Martin, who died at Tocat, in 1812. It 
was most interesting to stand beside the tomb of 
that devoted missionary, who ( labored so many 
years in the East, and translated the Holy Scrip- 
tures into Hindostanee and Persian.' The East 
India Company are about to erect an elegant 
monument to his memory, in the grounds of the 
American mission, where his remains will be re- 
moved and deposited. I have just held an inter- 
view, this evening, with a converted Mussulman 
from Aintab. He obtained a copy of the New 
Testament at Beyroot some years ago, became 
convinced of the truth of the Gospel, and has 
since distributed more than one hundred copies 
among the Kuzul Bashis Koords and Turks 
around Arabkir. He has changed his name from 
Mohammed to Kreker, or Gregory, and gone into 
all the towns and villages of that region, every- 



LETTER TO HIS MOTHER. 223 

where preaching the Word. I inquired his 
opinion of the Bible. - I believe it to be the Word 
of God,' said he ; ' and Christ is the Son of God, 
who took upon himself our nature to save sinners. 
This he did by his atonement and resurrection, 
and afterward he sent his Holy Spirit to renew us 
unto newness of life.' I asked him whence he 
obtained this knowledge ? He replied, ' By study- 
ing the Scriptures alone.' Such is the power of 
the simple Word of God, to make even a follower 
of the false prophet wise unto everlasting salvation. 

u He is now on his way to Constantinople, to 
be baptized and fully embrace the Christian 
religion. 

" Faithfully and affectionately yours, 

"C.K RlGHTER." 

In a letter to his mother he speaks of his visit 
to the grave of Henry Martin, in a manner which 
shows that he was not unprepared in thought to 
find an early grave near this precious dust. 
There is something deeply touching and almost 
prophetic in the thoughts which he expressed 
on visiting this spot. 

" Tocat, Oct. 2, 1856. 

" I am now upon a journey to the interior sta- 
tions of the Armenian Missions in Asia Minor, 
and have time this morning only to write a hasty 



224 HENRY MARTIN'S GRAVE. 

note from this most interesting place. Here 
Henry Martin lies buried — that devoted mission- 
ary in the East, who in India translated the Holy 
Scriptures into Hindostanee and Persian, and died 
with fever at Tocat, on his journey to Constanti- 
nople. I have this afternoon made a visit to his 
grave. It was just at the hour of sunset. A 
mild and mellow light was shed over the scene, 
and I could not but feel my devotion quick- 
ened, and faith strengthened beside the last rest- 
ing-place of this man of God, cut off in early 
manhood, in the midst of his active labors, in a 
far distant land. Again a voice came to me — 
1 What thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy 
might, for in such an hour as ye think not the Son 
of Man cometh.' 

" Tocat is beautifully situated at the head of a 
fertile valley, abounding in gardens, vineyards, 
and fruit-trees of most luxuriant growth. The 
missionary brethren came out to welcome us in 
the name of Christ ; and after we had spent a few 
days with them in delightful Christian intercourse, 
sent us on our way rejoicing. My travelling com- 
panion is the Eev. Henry Jones, secretary of the 
Turkish Missions Aid Society, a man of devoted 
piety, and an excellent Christian gentleman. Our 
object is to visit all the missionary stations in 
Asia Minor, to witness the work of the Lord in 
connexion with the Bible cause, and the cause of 



pilgrim's progress. 225 

missions, and to establish, a branch of the Evan- 
gelical Alliance as far as may be practicable at 
each station. 

" From Tocat we traversed the bold and rug- 
ged mountains, constantly viewing picturesque 
and beautiful scenery, and in two days came to 
Sivas, a second missionary station of the Ameri- 
can Board. We were somewhat alarmed by the 
reported attacks of robbers by the way, but 
* through the good providence of God, arrived in 
safety. The missionaries and native brethren 
came out on horseback, two hours in advance, to 
give us a cordial welcome. Indeed our whole 
journey seems more like Pilgrim's Progress than 
any I have ever yet made. The land is beauti- 
ful, and the climate most delightful. Though 
there are occasional perils and dangers in the 
way, yet all is 'the King's country,' and must 
one day be converted to Christ. At each station, 
too, we hold such sweet communion and fellow- 
ship with our Christian brethren in this far oft 
land, as can only dwell in kindred hearts. We 
are entertained in the ' palace called Beautiful.' 
and sleep in the ' chamber of Peace,' as at times 
we repose two or three days from the fatigues of 
our journey. Here, in Sivas, we administered 
the communion of the Lord's supper to the little 
church gathered in the name of Christ, and we 
did indeed sit together in heavenly places in 



226 ARABKIR. 

Christ Jesus, with his elect ones in this Moslem 
land. On the morrow we went on our way, 
escorted by our good friends some distance on 
the plain, where we parted, commending each 
other to the blessing of heaven in all our labors. 

" In six days, over mountains, through wind- 
ing valleys and extended plains, we reached the 
missionary station of Arabkir, in the borders of 
the ancient Cappadocia. It is a city of gardens 
in the midst of the mountains, and exceedingly' 
beautiful for situation. Here we were received 
again by warm Christian hearts, and rejoiced to 
witness their good work, and cheer them in their 
arduous labors. 

" We also joined in celebrating the communion 
with them and their native church, and much 
enjoj^ed the season. The hearts of the native 
converts are overflowing with love and gratitude 
to those who have sent to them the Bible and 
missionaries of the gospel of Christ. They crowd 
around us, and shake our hands with tears in 
their eyes. 

" Again we pursued our journey, and at the 
close of the day came down to the river Euphra- 
tes, one of the four rivers that flowed from the 
Garden of Eden. It runs here with a swift cur- 
rent, through a narrow gorge in the mountains — 
a broad and noble stream. And inspiring indeed 
were my first impressions in looking upon this 



KHARPOOT. 227 

ancient river that flowed from the paradise of our 
first parents. 

" Crossing the Euphrates, we spent the night at 
the town of Maden, on the opposite bank. Here 
also we joined in a social prayer meeting with the 
little Protestant church that has received the pure 
faith of the gospel through the labors of the 
American missionaries. They were delighted to 
be assured that we in England and America be- 
lieved the same Bible and gospel with them, and 
that we could hold fellowship together in the 
name of a common Saviour. 

" The next morning we rode on our journey 
(we travel entirely on horseback in this land ; there 
are no roads for carriages, only mountain foot and 
bridle paths), and came to Kharjpoot, situated on a 
fortress rock that commands a splendid view over 
a wide extended plain. This is one of the more 
recent missionary stations, and no church had yet 
been formed. Our visit was considered a favor 
able occasion for organizing a church, and we 
were glad to assist in examining the candidates, 
and admitting them as members of the church of 
Christ. One of them was the father of a family, 
with his young daughter, and another a converted 
Armenian priest, who seemed to receive the truth 
anew with full simplicity and sincerity of heart. 

"The next day we continued our journey over 
the plain, and across the rugged mountains, and 



228 DIARBEKIR. 

in three days reached Diarbekir, a large walled 
city, situated at the head waters of the Tigris, on 
the borders of the plains of Mesopotamia. We 
spent another delightful Sabbath with the native 
and missionary brethren here, and held sweet 
communion and fellowship together. One of the 
latter was an old friend of mine in college, and 
we enjoyed much our visit in the recollection of 
former scenes, and in relating our various experi- 
ence since we separated. 

" The climate is mild and genial at this season, 
and the scenery varied and picturesque. Through 
the kindness of the American Ambassador at 
Constantinople, I have a large firman from the 
Sultan, bearing his great seal, which secures us 
the particular attention and entertainment of all 
the Pashas and Governors on the way, so that we 
are exceedingly enjoying the tour. In addition 
to this, we are cheered in our visit and encouraged 
in our labors at each station, and thus go forward 
rejoicing in the Lord, and giving thanks at the 
remembrance of his holiness. 

" On the following day we took our departure 
for Mosul. We are now mounted on a raft of a 
hundred inflated goat skins, and glide beautifully 
down the Tigris, the Hiddekel of the Scriptures-, 
another of the four rivers that flowed from 
the Garden of Eden ; ' that is it which, goeth 
toward the east of Assyria. 7 A neat little house 



ON THE TIGRIS. 229 

of poplar poles covered with wax cloth, to pro- 
tect us from the sun and rain, and fitted up with 
poplomans and lined within for our comfort. A 
guard of soldiers have volunteered to accompany 
us, free of expense, and sleep round us at night. 
Thus we float on with the current. It is the per- 
fection of travelling without the rattling of 
wheels, without dust, without steam even. The 
stream floats us on night and day, and at inter- 
vals we whirl past rocks, and dash swiftly down 
the rapids. The mountains and rocks rise in 
grandeur and sublimity on either side, as the 
noble river winds its way through. 

" We spent the Sabbath at Hassankeefa, a city 
hewn out in the solid rocks like Petra in the land 
of Edom. It is now crumbling to ruins, and the 
miserable population live in the tombs of the 
former dwellers in the rock. Yesterday we 
passed the river Chabur, the ancient Chebar, that 
comes down from the mountains of Chaldea, and 
flows into the Tigris. Here the Prophet Ezekiel 
saw his sublime visions in the land of the Chal- 
deans, by the river Chebar, when the heavens 
were opened and Jehovah manifested to him his 
peculiar presence and glory. I enjoyed anew 
these spiritual scenes as we gazed long upon the 
banks of that ancient river. 

Nov. 9. — To-day at noon we are in sight of 
the walls and minarets of Mosul, and Nelly 

20 



230 INCIDENTS. 

Yonas, the tomb of the Prophet Jonah, that 
covers the ruins of the ancient Nineveh, l that 
great city of three days journey.' 

" Thus the Lord has protected and prospered 
us on our way, and followed us with goodness in 
all our journey. In the words of the Psalmist 
we would exclaim, c Bless the Lord, our soul : and 
all that is within us, bless his holv name. 7 

" Yours, &c. C. N, K." 

Below are given some of the incidents of the 
journey, communicated to the American Bible 
Society : 

" As we left Tocat, Hagop Agha, the head of 
the Protestant community, and all the students 
of the seminary, in a body, accompanied us on 
our way to a hillside that overlooks the city. 
They then gathered around us in a circle, and 
we commended them to God and the Bible as 
their rule of faith, and the Guide of their lives, 
and exhorted them to show forth the light of the 
Gospel of Christ in this dark land, and be faith- 
ful unto death, that they might receive the crown 
of life at his right hand. One of their number, 
in return, thanked us cordially for our visit, and 
our societies for sending them the Bible and the 
Gospel of salvation, and prayed that the peace of 
God might abide with us on the journey, and the 
blessing of heaven rest upon all our labors in the 



sivas. 231 

East. We then traversed a rugged, mountainous 
region, and in two days reached Sivas, a second 
missionary station of the American Board. The 
brethren, as before, came out on horseback, one 
hour in advance, to welcome us in the name of 
Christ. The city is beautifully situated upon an 
elevated plain between two ranges of limestone 
hills, with a stream of pure water flowing 
through. It contains a population of nearly 
50,000 ; of whom 36,000 are Turks, 12,000 Ar- 
menians, and 300 Greeks. The Scriptures are 
kept publicly for sale at four different .points in 
the city, and a new depository is about to be 
opened in front of the principal bazaar. There 
have been sold during the last year : Armenian 
Bibles, twenty -three ; Testaments, thirty-five ; 
Psalms, sixty-seven ; Turkish Testaments, twenty- 
three ; Grrseeo-Turkish Testaments, ten ; making 
158 copies of Scriptures. 

" They likewise wished a large additional sup- 
ply for the coming year. I then called upon the 
Armenian bishop at the monastery. He is an 
amiable, venerable-looking man, and received 
me with the greatest politeness : l Safa guel- 
duig ; khos guelduig ; ' — (You are welcome ; 
most welcome). I explained to him the object 
of the American Bible Society — to furnish the 
Bible in all the languages of the East ; stat- 
ing, that ' in America, every family who desires 



232 PUBLIC MEETING. 

it has a copy of the Bible ; and American Chris- 
tians desire that every family in the East may 
also receive the Word of God.' He says, ' This 
is a very good work. Every family of my peo- 
ple also has, or can have the Bible if they wish. 
They can receive it both in the ancient and 
modern languages.' 

" This was regarded as a most important 
admission by an Armenian bishop in the presence 
of the missionaries — that the Bible should have 
free circulation among his people. 

" In the afternoon a public meeting of the Pro- 
testant community was held at the mission 
chapel. The Eev. Mr. Jones, from England, 
addressed them in relation to his society, and I, 
from America, in behalf of the Bible Cause. 
They were greatly interested in the account of 
our new Bible House at New York, and all the 
operations of the Bible Society, of which they 
had never before heard. And it was most pleas- 
ing to receive their warm expressions of gratitude 
for thus receiving the Bible and the Gospel of 
Christ at our hands. The next day was the Sab- 
bath. "VVe attended service in the native lan- 
guages, and then administered the communion of 
the Lord's Supper to the little church gathered 
here ; and it was an occasion of deep interest to 
sit around the table of our Lord with these 
brethren in a strange land. 



KOOEDS. 233 

" In the afternoon, two of the Kuzelbash 
Koords, from a village twelve hours distant, 
called upon us. One is the son of the sheik, or 
chief man of the village. They expressed a 
desire to become Protestants, and embrace the 
Gospel of Christ. I asked them why they wished 
to change their religion. They replied : we for- 
merly worshipped a cane, or staff, with which the 
sheik, or priest, beat us, to drive away our sins. 
We used to meet once a week and receive this 
beating, and repeat certain incantations. Then 
we confessed our sins to the sheik, and once a 
year offered a sacrifice of sheep to this cane. We 
no longer believe that this can save us. A kitab 
(good book) taught us better.' 

" ' Whence did you receive this Book ?' 
" { We know not,' they say. ' It teaches us 
that Christ is alive, and the other prophets are 
dead. It teaches us to love our enemies, and 
pray for them. It is ten years since we began to 
learn these truths.' 

" l What is the name of this Book ?' 
" i We call it Boyurook ' (book of authority or 
command), they answer. l A khojah, or teacher, 
reads to us from this Book, the sheik explains it, 
and we then pray to God through Christ, as his 
Book teaches. 3 

" I tell them we also have the same Book in 
America 1 , and call it ' Ingil " (Gospel of Salvation). 
20* 



234 coNVEKSATioisr. 

" They answer, l We would be delighted to 
have a good missionary from America come and 
live among us, to instruct us in this way of salva- 
tion. We are called Protestants by the Koords, 
and our enemies beat us and drive away our 
flocks because we will not worship idols as they 
do.' 

" We tell them they must expect to suffer per- 
secution for believing in Christ ; but if they are 
faithful, God will deliver them from the hand of 
their enemies ; that they must return to their vil- 
lage, and preach this same Gospel of Love and 
Salvation even to their persecutors. 

" l Inshallah' (God be praised) ! they both ex- 
claim. They tell us that 500 others are ready to 
receive the Gospel with them, but for fear of the 
savage Koords. We then promised to call and 
represent their case of persecution to the Turkish 
authorities, that they might enjoy liberty of con- 
science to believe in the Bible and Gospel of 
Christ, as the late firman of the Sultan declares 
to all the subjects of his empire. Such is the 
influence of a single unknown Testament, to 
teach these poor Kuzelbash, in the interior of 
Asia Minor, the folly of their idol worship, and 
lead them to believe in Christ as their only 
Saviour from sin. On the morrow we set out on 
our journey. The brethren accompanied us some 
distance on the plain, and then bade us farewell, 



SOWIKG SEED. 235 

commending our way to the Lord. We spent the 
night at the small Armenian village of Oolash. 
The priest and chourbagi (chief man of the vil- 
lage) called to see us, and the conversation soon 
turned upon the Bible and Testament. Our 
dragoman, who is a zealous Protestant, at once 
enlisted, and preached the Gospel to the little 
company for two hours with much earnestness. 
"We trust that some fruit may spring from the 
good seed sown by the way in that quiet village. 
In another village where we passed the night, the 
moodir, or Turkish governor, inquired if we were 
travelling through the country to make all the 
people Protestants. We answered, that 'our 
object was to give the Bible and preach the Gos- 
pel to all who wer£ willing to hear and receive 
it.' To our great surprise he replied, ' This is 
according to the Sultan's decree.' We were 
delighted thus to find that such liberal ideas were 
gradually penetrating into the interior of the 
empire. 

" In four days more we reached Arabkir, a city 
of gardens in the midst of the mountains. It con- 
tains a population of 30,000, of whom 20,000 are 
Mussulmans, and 10,000 Armenians. There are 
also 300 enrolled in the Protestant community. 
This is a most important centre of missionary 
operations. Twenty-two native helpers are em- 
ployed; of these, six are preachers, two are en- 



236 THE SCHOOLS. 

gaged at the Bible depots, two are colporteurs, 
and twelve are teachers. All are more or less 
engaged in the work of circulating the Scriptures. 
There are six schools, containing one hundred 
pupils, in which the Bible and Testament are 
made the chief books of instruction. I also visited 
the Bible shop in the midst of the business bazaars 
of the city, and found there a large Armenian and 
Turkish Bible lying open, that any who passed 
by might read the Word of God. There have 
been disposed of from thence, within the last five 
months, eighteen Bibles and one hundred and 
three Testaments. I likewise visited two of the 
schools, and found the children diligently study- 
ing the Bible and Testament, and learning the 
way of salvation. Then I called upon the chief 
vartabed of the Armenian Church. He received 
me very cordially, and said, 'he taught all his 
people that they must have the Bible and read it. 
He had a copy of our Modern Armenian Bible, 
and would examine it, and if the translation were 
correct, he would at once recommend it to his 
people. 7 He was desirous also to have the "Word 
circulated among the Kuzelbash. It was our 
duty to endeavor to enlighten and Christianize 
them. He wishes to preach only what is found 
in the Bible, and prays that Koords and Mussul- 
mans may all receive the truth as it is m Jesus, 
and be made happy in the love of Christ. 



NATIVE PREACHER. 237 

"As I leave, he presses me warmly by the 
hand, and says, ' If we both live in the faith of 
the Gospel, we will meet again in heaven.' He 
seemed to be a man of excellent liberal spirit for 
a chief ecclesiastic in the Armenian Church. 

"We afterward visited the school under his 
direction, and found a class of larger boys trans- 
lating the Bible from the ancient to the modern 
language, which they can understand. The 
teacher says that ours is a correct translation, and 
does not differ from the ancient version. Thus 
the Bible is penetrating among the Armenians 
in their schools and families, and we trust will 
soon bring them from the darkness and deadness 
of superstition to the light and life of the Gospel 
of Christ. I was much interested in the experi- 
ence of one of the native preachers. He first ob- 
tained a copy of the ancient Armenian Bible at 
Aleppo: with this he retired to a cave for two 
years, and fasted and prayed. Then Christ re- 
vealed himself to him, and told him to go forth 
and preach repentance, and keep the Sabbath day 
holy. In obedience to this command he would 
hold up a serpent, and in the name of the Lord 
beseech all men to repent. At that time he suf- 
fered much persecution ; now, these .old things 
have passed away, and all things become new. 
He is an earnest and devoted preacher of the Gos- 
pel in all the towns and villages around, and, 



238 PROTESTANT CHURCH, 

from his faithfulness and zeal, is called ' the Apos- 
tle to the Gentiles.' I was greatly pleased to find 
the Bible work of so much interest and import- 
ance at Arabkir, on the borders of the ancient 
Cappadocia. 

" The next day we set out upon our journey, 
escorted on the way by one of the missionaries 
and several of the native brethren. We passed 
through a finely cultivated country, abounding in 
ploughed fields and growing grain, and in six 
hours came down to the river Euphrates, one of 
the four rivers that flowed from the garden of 
Eden. It here runs with a swift current through 
a rugged gorge, winding among the mountains. 
Crossing the stream in a primitive scow, with a 
long rudder that sweeps through the current, we 
reached the town of Maden, picturesquely situated 
on the opposite bank. Here a little church of 
Protestants is gathered through the labors of the 
American missionaries, and they have a small 
depot for Bibles and Testaments in one corner of 
their chapel. It was the evening for their social 
prayer meeting, and they soon all came in to bid 
us welcome. Then their native preacher con- 
ducted the service, reading from the Scriptures 
and offering prayer. And afterward we addressed 
them in behalf of the Bible and Mission Cause. 
They listened with deep interest, and seemed 
greatly encouraged to feel that Christians in Eng- 



KHARPOOT. 239 

land and America received with, them the same 
pure Bible and Gospel of Salvation. 

" It was a peculiar delight to join in the wor- 
ship of God with these brethren on the banks of 
the river Euphrates. 

"In the morning early we rode over the moun- 
tains filled with silver Qre, and came to a fine hill 
country abounding in springs of water, and villa- 
ges perched upon* the hillsides. Thence crossing 
a fertile plain, and ascending the steep hillside, 
we reached the fortress-built town of Kharpoot, 
that overlooks the whole plain and the hundreds 
of Armenian villages around. The view was 
most beautiful, as we arrived at the hour of sun- 
set and twilight in the East. 

"Kharpoot is one of the more recent mission- 
ary stations of the American Board, and is in the 
centre of a large Armenian population. There 
are thirty cities within this field, and 366 villages 
on the plain, containing 100,000 Armenians, 
20,000 Koords, and 5,000 Kuzelbash, all acces- 
sible to missionary effort. The city is the seat of 
the pashalic, and a mart of traffic from all parts 
of Asia Minor. I was glad to find the Scriptures 
kept publicly for sale, in various languages, near 
the principal business bazaar: here Turks, Ar- 
menians, and Koords from the mountains, come 
to purchase the Bible. There have been sold, 
during the last year, twenty- two modern Armenian 



240 BLIND BOY. 

Bibles and seventy-one Testaments ; five Ancient 
Armenian and two Turkish. Testaments; eight 
Koordish Gospels ; fifty Armenian and five Turk- 
ish Psalms; and four English, one Arabic, and 
one French. Testament; making 169 copies of the 
Scriptures. I visited the two Protestant schools, 
numbering thirty-three pupils, in which the Scrip- 
tures are daily taught. Theiy system is to com- 
mit verses of Scripture, and repeat them on the 
Sabbath. One little boy, five years old, recited 
for me nearly the whole of the first chapter of 
Matthew correctly and well. Also a blind boy 
seemed quite in advance of the rest in his know- 
ledge of the Scriptures. It was interesting to 
know that the Bible is likewise taught to the 
blind in this far off land. Thus the children are 
instructed to meet and overthrow the corrupt 
doctrines of the Oriental churches, and defend a 
pure faith from the Word of God. It is worthy 
of remark, that the Bible is always made the 
standard of appeal in every discussion among the 
common people. In the evening we attended the 
examination of candidates preparatory to organiz- 
ing the first Protestant church at Kharpoot. Ten 
presented themselves for admission. I was much 
pleased to find all not only sound in doctrine, 
but also spiritually acquainted with the Scriptures. 
" The next day was the Sabbath. In the morn- 
ing we attended service in the new chapel near 



OKGANIZING A CHUBCH. 241 

Castle Eock. It was filled "with, a large and at- 
tentive congregation ; and after sermon, I briefly 
addressed them in relation to the Bible Cause, en- 
forcing upon them the duty of circulating the Bi- 
ble and preaching the Gospel in all the towns and 
villages around. In the afternoon a still larger 
audience assembled in the Mission Chapel, to wit- 
ness the formation of the first evangelical church 
in the city. The ten candidates then came for- 
ward, gave their assent to the confession of faith, 
and were all baptized and received into member- 
ship of the Church of Christ. Among the num- 
ber was a converted Armenian priest, who became 
convinced of the truth by studying the Bible, and 
now received the Gospel anew, in full sincerity 
and simplicity of heart. Afterward the Kev. Mr. 
Jones and myself administered to them the com- 
munion of the Lord's Supper ; and it was a pecu- 
liar delight to sit down for the first time with 
these elect ones around the table of Christ, and 
partake of the emblems of his death and atone- 
ment for the sins of the world. We trust and 
pray that this may be the beginning of kindling 
again the pure light of the Gospel of salvation in 
all this land. In the evening a Turkish effendi, 
wearing a large white turban, called to see us. 
He said, ' I have a Testament, and am reading it 
with much, interest ; but I cannot understand the 
doctrine of the Trinity.' We said to him, that 

21 



242 BIBLE BURNING. 

we first proved that the Bible was from God ; and 
as this doctrine was revealed in the Bible, we be- 
lieved its truth ; though it might be above the 
comprehension of our finite minds. He received 
the remark in silence, and went his way to read 
again this wondrous Book. The Rev. Mr. Dun- 
more has also a class of ten young men, to whom 
he is giving a course of Biblical lectures, and pre- 
paring them to go forth and distribute the Bible, 
and preach the Gospel in all the region round about. 
We were much interested in the encouraging de- 
velopments of the missionary work at Kharpoot, 
and both remarked how entirely it was begun and 
carried on through the instrumentality of the Bible. 
At Diarbekir the native brethren called in to 
see us, and one of them related the beginning of 
the good work in the city. A case of Bibles was 
first sent to Mardin. There they were seized by 
a rich Catholic merchant, and locked up to keep 
them from being circulated. The pasha after- 
wards executed this man in order to obtain his 
property, and the Bibles were thus set at liberty, 
and brought to Diarbekir for sale. A Syrian 
dyer bought one of them, and began to read it 
aloud at night. This interested one of his work- 
men, who also obtained a copy, and commenced 
reading it ; then others of the people, till the 
bishop became alarmed, and ordered all the 
Bibles to be collected and burned. Still, some 



PERSECUTIONS. 243 

were not given up, and the good work went for- 
ward, until one of the Syrian bishops himself 
renounced the errors of his church. He after- 
wards went to England, and brought out a large 
number of Bibles, and put them in circulation 
among his people. Much persecution followed ; 
still the work advanced, in the providence of 
God, till many were awakened to the truth, and 
some have remained firm to the end. 

"It was most interesting to hear these perse- 
cuted ones themselves relate their simple story, 
and tell what they had suffered for the sake of 
the Bible and the Gospel of Christ. 

" I also called upon the Armenian bishop. He 
was a venerable old man, with a flowing white 
beard, and received me with the greatest polite- 
ness. I expressed to him the desire of the Ameri- 
can Bible Society to furnish every family with the 
Bible in the modern language, which all can un- 
derstand. He replied, 'It is eyi, chok eyi' — 
good, very good. ' The bible teaches us the way 
to heaven. There is one Saviour for English, 
Americans, and Armenians. Through the blood 
of Christ we all find salvation, and we are broth- 
ers in Christ Jesus.' He says, i It is a shame if 
every family who can read does not have the 
Bible.' As we leave, he presses us warmly by 
the hand, and remarks, 'In Christ, I hope we 
may meet in heaven.' 



244 BIBLE CLASS. 

"It is pleasant thus to find that more enlight- 
ened views are beginning to prevail among the 
patriarchs and bishops of the Oriental churches, in 
reference to the circulation of the Bible and fel- 
lowship of the Gospel. On the Sabbath we 
attended the large Bible class held in the mission 
chapel. There were 140 present, seated upon 
their knees in Eastern style. After the lesson, I 
addressed them in behalf of the Bible Cause. 
They listened with tears in their eyes, and then 
crowded around to shake me by the hand and 
thank me and our Society for sending them the 
Bible and Gospel to teach them of Christ and the 
way of eternal salvation ; and it was a scene of 
deep interest, as Syrians, Chaldeans, Greeks, and 
Armenians, all came forward to express their 
gratitude in the name, and for the love of 
Christ. 

" In the afternoon, we celebrated with them the 
communion of the Lord's Supper, and truly sat 
together in heavenly places in Christ Jesus, call- 
ing to mind his sufferings and death upon the cross 
for our salvation. 

" One hundred and sixty copies of the Scriptures 
have been sold and distributed from this station 
during the last nine months. They also send out 
native helpers to sell and distribute the Scriptures 
in the towns and villages around, and to make 
tours in the mountains of Koordistan. Thus, 



CITY OF ROCK. 245 

through various means, the Word of God is hay- 
ing fre$ course and is glorified in this ancient 
land. 

"At Hassankeifa, the city hewn in rock, I 
counted seven large mosques, in the finest style 
of Saracenic architecture, now crumbling to ruins 
near the city. As I sat among these ruins read- 
ing the Bible, one of the Turkish soldiers, who 
had taken passage with us upon the raft, stepped 
up to me, and asked if it was the ' Ingil Sheriff ' 
— the holy Gospel. I answered, ' Yes, and I also 
have one in Turkish, if you wish.' Immediately 
upon my return he came to me, and begged a 
Testament ; and as I gave it to him, he began at 
once to read it aloud, that all his companions 
might hear ; and every day since, upon the raft, 
I have heard him reading his Testament aloud to 
himself and his fellows with much earnestness. 
Our earnest prayer is that it may lead him to re- 
nounce the religion of the false prophet, and sin- 
cerely receive the truth as it is in Jesus. 



21* 



CHAPTER XX. 

HIS JOURNAL. 

Mr. Eighter kept a journal or diary, contain- 
ing brief notes of the events of each, day*, during 
all the time of his second absence from home, 
until his last illness. Several volumes of such 
notes were returned to his friends, but they are 
so brief as not to admit of being transcribed. 
They were more full on this last journey than 
tlfey had been before, and it is the source of very 
deep interest to those who were acquainted with 
him, and it will be to all into whose hands this 
volume may fall, that his last records were so 
full. They show more conclusively than the 
testimony of others, how truly his heart was de- 
voted to the great work in which he was engaged 
—how untiring he was in its prosecution, and 
how cheerfully and even joyfully he arose each 
day to enter upon its duties and toils. This 
journal is given entire from the day of his reach- 
ing Mosul. 

November 8th, 1856. 
" A splendid clear morning, and are rejoiced at 



mosul. 247 

the prospect of reaching Mosul in a few hours, 
and meeting with our excellent Crhistian friends 
there. 

" At noon we came in sight of the minarets 
and walls of Mosul and Nebly Yonas, the tomb of 
Jonas covering the ruins of ancient Nineveh, on 
the opposite side of the river. It is beautiful in the 
distance, under the clear sunlight of an oriental 
sky. The shores are clothed with green ; the 
river flows with a broad and majestic current; 
the walls rise grandly in front, and I greatly 
enjoy the scene as we float on quietly toward 
both the ancient and modern city. See several 
of the native women on the banks of the river, 
their long black hair flowing down their shoulders 
in graceful style. The shores are also planted 
with watermelons that are just gathered for the 
market. 

" The city now stands out fully before us with 
its walls, battlements, minarets, and towers, in 
stately oriental style. Sail beside the city walls 
• — count 300 women washing and beating clothes 
by the river side. Come to anchor near the 
bridge of boats ; are received by a mingled crowd 
of turbaned natives ; a guide directs us through 
the muddy streets, like Stamboul, towards the 
house of the American missionaries ; meet Mr. 
Marsh and Dr. Haskell coming to meet us on 
horseback — insist upon our mounting and riding 



248 THE SABBATH. 

— streets, coffee-shops, quite like Eastern cities. 
Arrive at the mission house — large court with a 
large tree and singing birds in the centre — cordial 
welcome ; see Mrs. Marsh and Mrs. Lobdue and 
the children. Eide out upon the plain outside of 
the city ; quite like Egypt in the sky and view, 
and mild, mellow light. Excellent Arab horses ; 
much enjoy the ride, also a fine walk on the 
housetop and view over the city. Have a de- 
lightful social prayer-meeting with the missiona- 
ries in the evening. 

Sabbath, 9th. 

" Am awaked by the cheerful singing of birds 
in the court. This morning see Kos-ma-chiel who 
was formerly a Catholic Nestorian priest, and 
was in Eome five months where he became a 
Protestant. 

"Attend the Bible class in the chapel; fifty 
or sixty were present, seated on their knees in 
Eastern style — venerable, fine-looking men wear- 
ing large round turbans. I address them in 
behalf of the Bible cause, visit to Egypt, the 
Crimea, and the Kuzelbash. They listen with 
much interest, and then come forward to shake 
me by the hand and thank the American Bible 
Society for sending them the Bible and gospel of 
salvation. It was an impressive scene as these 
Syrians, descendants of the old Assyrians, in 



EVANGELICAL ALLIANCE. 249 

sight of the ruins of ancient Nineveh, thus ex- 
pressed their gratitude for receiving the word of 
Grocl at our hands. 

"I was much pleased with the neat chapel and 
intelligent congregation. In the evening have a 
meeting for organizing a branch of the Evangeli- 
cal Alliance. After hearing of the Turkey 
branch of the Alliance, and discussing the matter 
with much interest, they unanimously and cor- 
dially expressed their desire to form a branch, 
and thus be linked with Christians in all parts of 
the East and the world. It was a meeting of 
much interest. They cheerfully came forward 
and signed their names in Arabic to our rules 
and regulations — fourteen members, all who could 
write. 

"The women wear a black mask upon their 
heads, which, when it is drawn, entirely conceals 
their face. 

Monday, 10th. 
" Another very delightful morning. Eide on 
horseback to the Pasha's palace. Very pleasant 
reception by the Pasha in his audience room, 
overlooking the Tigris. Hamdi Pasha, a fine- 
looking gentlemen of the modern school, heartily 
shook hands with us, and bid us welcome. He 
had not often the honor of a visit from English 
and Americans; entertains us with chebouks, 



250 PASHA., 

preserves, and coffee in oriental style. He hoped 
that a friendly intercourse with each other would 
increase ; it would be to our mutual benefit. He 
remarked that now Mussulmans and Christians 
and Jews were becoming brothers. My friend 
said we have one Father. ' Yes,' he replied, ' Allah 
w^as Lord of all the earth ; not only the God of 
the mountains but also of the plains.' I remarked 
his views were the same as the Sultan's, as de- 
clared in the Hatti humayoun. ' Yes,' said he, 
' the Firman was read in Arabic and Turkish in 
the grand court of the palace to all the people, 
and it would be his object to have it fully carried 
out.' He greatly rejoiced in it. In comparing 
the present with the past great advance was 
made. The meaning of the word Koort was 
originally wolf, and it was now dog, and he 
hoped they would soon make it sheep. He 
pressed us to take a guard of his soldiers that we 
might pass with honor through the country. He 
rose as we left, and took leave of us with friendly 
salutations, l salam safa guelding Khosh guelding,' 
— welcome, much welcome. He would do us the 
favor of returning our visit. Then we call upon 
the Deftudar Kyiah, who received us in a similar 
cordial manner, entertained us in the same style, 
and expressed the same enlightened views in re- 
gard to English and Americans. The Pasha had 
been six years from Stamboul, and his secretary 



POPULATION. 251 

the same. We were greatly delighted with, our 
visit thus far, in the interior. Call to visit the 
Bible depot, at the large new Khan of the Eng- 
lish consulate, near the two principal gates of the 
city. Bibles in Arabic, Syriac, ancient and 
modern — a very public place and well known in 
the city. Copies of the Scriptures sold during 
the last year ; 217 books, of which 34 were Scrip- 
tures and parts of Scriptures. Call upon Mrs. 
Eassam, wife of the English Consul ; fine house, 
large court, garden in the centre, slabs from 
Nineveh in the pavement, and beautiful sedab or 
alabaster underground apartment below. Then 
visit the dispensary and see Dr. Haskel in his 
labors of love, prescribing for the crowd of pa- 
tients of all classes, Moslems, Christians, and 
Jews, women, men, and children, who daily come 
to him. They average forty or fifty each day. 
The system is first to preach the gospel to them, 
and then give them medicine for their diseases — 
Arabs from the desert, Koords from the moun- 
tains, Moslems and Christians from the city. 

" Mosul has a population of 45,000; Moslems 
36,000; Christians 7,500; 1,500 Jews; about 
two-fifths ancient Syrians or Jacobites; two- 
fifths Chaldeans or Papal Nestorians ; one-fifth 
Papal Syrians; 180 enrolled in the Protestant 
community ; fifteen church members ; attendance 
at service (average fifty-five); language used 



252 THE PASHA. 

entirely Arabic. A Bible class of twenty or 
thirty ; two boys' schools numbering sixty pupils ; 
three natives are employed in going from house 
to house to teach the men and women to read the 
Bible in the families ; have three preachers — 
Jeremiah Shemmas, deacon, Kos Machiel (for- 
merly a Papal Nestorian priest), Behnan, from 
the seminary of Aleih ; three teachers ; have 
three out stations at Jezerch, a village near Na- 
hauan, where the Nestorian priest and his people 
are Protestant, numbering 100. He teaches the 
people to read the Bible. 

" Spend a very pleasant evening with the French 

Consul, his adopted daughter, and Mrs. E 

quite like an American evening party — save 
the variety of languages spoken, English, French, 
Italian, Turkish, Arabic, and Greek. 

Tuesday, 11th. 
u After the rain it is mild and genial this morn- 
ing. This morning the Pasha, according to 
appointment, calls to visit us, accompanied by his 
defterdar and an interpreter. He brings his own 
chibouque and fingaw, says that one American 
friend has brought him two others, and he is now 
rich. I tell him that I hope the ships sailing from 
America on the chart before him will bring him 
many more. He smiles approbation and says 
that he felt in his heart that there was something 



A RIDE. 253 

good near liim, but lie was not aware of so great 
an affair so close beside him. He remarked that 
some physicians give a medicine to cure one dis- 
ease, others give a medicine to heal and renew 
the system. So a good government should seek 
for gradual reforms. I remarked, his views en- 
tirely coincided with the ideas of the Sultan, in 
the Hatti Sheriff. I told him that we were so 
much pleased with his liberal sentiments we would 
be happy to present him with a copy of the Bible 
that he might learn what we in England and 
America believed. He expressed his thanks, and 
said it would be valuable in two particulars ; it 
would always remind him of his true friend ; and 
it would be good for instruction, as being the book 
of God. He was exceeding affable and gracious 
— remarkably intelligent, and ready at repartee — 
a good specimen of an active-minded Turk. 

" The conversation continued for a half hour 
more, and he took his leave in Oriental style. 
His Secretary, when we inquired with regard to 
fine Arab horses, said, the son of the Pasha had 
one, and his own were the best in Mosul. 

u He invited us, in the court, to see his, a noble 
animal of full blood and breeding, whereupon he 
gave us the favor of riding her to visit ancient 
Nineveh, and he himself volunteered to accom- 
pany us, as he was acquainted with Mr. Lay- 
ard and his excavations. We rode out in grand 

22 



254 NINEVEH. 

style, six in our party — crossing the floating 
bridge oyer the Tigris, we galloped across the 
plain and along the line of the ancient walls 
which are distinctly traceable to the mound of 
one of the palace gateways, Here we dismounted 
and descended into the trenches under ground. 
I was amused to find here one of the largest 
human-headed winged bulls standing in its origi- 
nal site at the entrance of a temple. And near 
by was a full length figure of a priest, holding in 
his hand the sacred cone in offering sacrifice to 
the deity before him. Both were cut in solid 
stone, and were of huge dimensions. On the 
opposite side stands another of similar size to 
guard the porch of the temple. Then we walk 
in and examine the sides of the room. Slabs are 
inlaid, exceedingly interesting. We then walked 
to the exterior top of the mound and traced the 
line of the ancient walls of the city seven miles in 
circuit. Yonder is the buried ruin of the temple 
palace of Koyunjuk, and beyond the mound and 
tomb of the prophet Jonas, over which a splendid 
Moslem mosque is now erected, and a little Mos- 
lem village built around it, which has not been 
excavated underneath. Descending, we mounted 
our horses and galloped within the city walls. It 
is now a ploughed field, as the common houses 
were of sun-dried bricks, all was consumed, and 
crumbled to ruins. Then we came to the palace 



RELICS. 255 

mound of Koyunjuk. This has been extensively 
excavated, and here the most valuable articles 
were found. We descend into the trenches, and 
come to the grand hall of the palace; here were 
splendid column pedestals, a finely wrought slab 
of pavement, and slabs and remains of ancient 
art and skill, extending far. Then we walked 
over the mound, saw various shafts and trenches, 
and at length descended and came to another 
temple — four huge bulls at the gateway ; one of 
them at the side covered with cuneiform inscrip- 
tions, and in the hall slabs of battle and triumphal 
scenes, attacking a fortified town, casting up a 
mound, battering-rams, hurling stones ; and an- 
other represents ancient Tyre, palm trees, fish, a 
man carrying a banner, etc. ; another represents 
a hill country, etc. Also we see the instruments 
of music played, cymbals, tamborine and harp. 
We could have wandered a whole day here. Next 
we rode to the village of Nebly Yonas. Ascend 
to the Mosque. The dignified old Moslem admits 
us to the Mosque. It is elegantly built in a dome 
style, and richly carpeted within. We walk to 
the tomb of the prophet underneath a small 
dome; here we look through a grated window, 
strung with many-colored pilgrim rags. Then 
we ask to enter within to the tomb itself. After 
some little hesitation, they light their long sacred 
candles, and unlock the heavy door. Solemnly 



256 FEENCH CONSUL. 

they advance praying to Allah, and bow on 
the knee as we come in front of the tomb. It 
is richly carpeted with Persian carpet. We 
descended six steps and walked around the tomb. 
It is covered with rich green silk, and above 
a splendid gold cloth, given by the Pasha 
of Busru. Then we came into the court of the 
Mosque, and ascend the beautiful glazed brick 
minaret. The view was magnificent, in the clear 
sunlight, of the ancient city ; its walls and gateway, 
towers, temples — the winding Tigris stretching 
afar — the gardens opposite — the flocks and Arab 
tents, and the mountains of the Kurdistan rising 
majestically behind, a scene of vivid interest I 
shall never forget. Then we descend, mount our 
horses and gallop over the plain and across the 
river to Mosul. 

" Make a pleasant evening call upon the French 
consul, at his house, a good specimen of French 
politeness. Learn the news, political crisis 
coming on, and the prospect of another Congress 
at Paris. 

"Have a beautiful moonlight view from the 
housetop of Mr. Marsh. The pure and mellow 
light shedding over the scene. Venus just setting 
in the west and Jupiter shining clear in the sky, 
like the views of moonlight scene from the house- 
top in Jerusalem. Talk late in the evening with 
Mr. Marsh on various interesting matters. 



AKCHBISHOP. 257 

Wednesday, 12. 

Call first upon our friend, the Pasha's def- 
terdar, a Christian. He receives us in a most 
cordial manner, entertained us with narghile, sher- 
bet, coffee, and preserves, etc., in oriental style. 
Then he introduced his wife, a fine-looking, tall 
woman, splendidly dressed in figured silk skirt, 
gold embroidered vest, golden necklace, and 
golden head-dress, inwrought with precious stones. 
Express our pleasure at seeing a native Christian 
lady in a social call at Mosul, far in the East. 

We call our wives in America our better half, 
but Moslems degrade them. Thinks a Moslem 
would be killed by the people for becoming 
Christian, but not by the government. The 
authorities would execute the murderers. He 
himself wears the decoration of Mejedie, the 
first ever conferred on a Christian. Three papal 
Syrian priests were present, who had been to 
Eome, and assisted in the entertainment. They 
spoke Italian. 

Then the son of the Pasha sent his Arab horse 
for us to see. A large iron grey, splendidly 
formed, strong, a noble creature from the Shum- 
mur tribe. 

Afterward call upon the Syrian Archbishop, a 
venerable man with a long, flowing beard, intelli- 
gent and affable ; received us with great courtesy ; 
says he makes the Bible the only rule of faith, 
22* 



258 ARCHBISHOP. 

preaches from the word of God alone; read us 
one of his sermons in Syriac, beautifully written, 
on the new heart— except a man be born again 
he cannot enter the kingdom of heaven. If a 
sinner came to inquire the way of salvation he 
would show him the word of God. Thy word is 
a light to my feet, etc. He seems thoroughly 
evangelical in his views, and wishes to publish 
them in a book. The word of God is like a net 
to catch sinners, and pull them out of their sins. 
Tell him we hope he will become the Luther of 
the Syrian church — one-third of his people sym- 
pathise with him in these spiritual views — we must 
walk by the word of God. The heavens and the 
earth pass away, but the word of the Lord endu- 
reth for ever. Tie is a thorough Bible man. Tell 
him I am glad to hear that he founds his faith on 
the word of God. I ask him if he wishes his peo- 
ple to have the Bible in their families, to read and 
learn the way of salvation. He would rejoice in 
it, and he himself will distribute and sell the 
Bible to all who desire it. He wishes Syriac, 
Arac, and Arabic in Syriac character (gershuni). 
He prayed that himself and the missionaries 
may all be one in their spiritual labors for 
their people, and that the time might soon 
come when they would preach in each other's 
pulpits, and partake of the communion of Christ 
together around the table of Christ. Imme- 



dr. grant's house. 259 

diately after he wishes the Dr. Haskell to prescribe 
for him. 

Then call to visit the house of Dr. Grant, now 
occupied by a Syrian family. The two women 
are at home, one of them knew Dr. Grant. He 
had healed her of a disease. The Lord have 
mercy on him. The other was very beautiful 
and dressed in a profusion of gold ornaments, 
nose jewels, and bracelets and anklets. They 
were exceeding polite. Saw the room in which 
Dr. G. died, looking out on the Tigris, with stained 
glass windows above. (May our last end be like 
his. See the man who saw his death scene.) 

Here is a beautiful view from the house-top 
over the city. Mr. Laurie and Layard afterward 
lived here. 

Then call upon Mrs. Eussan, visit the Protes- 
tant school of twenty-seven Syrian boys. An- 
swer Bible questions and one of them read from 
the Testament very fluently— nine years old. 
Mrs. Marsh and Mrs. Lobdell have a meeting 
one day in a week, in which the Scriptures are 
read and explained to them and prayer is offered. 
The average number of twenty attend, also a Bi- 
ble class on Sunday of fourteen members. There 
is also a Bible society organized among the church 
members, appropriating a fund of a hundred pias- 
tres a year for distributing the Scriptures to the 
poor. 



260 BUKIAL GROUND. 

" Eide outside the city walls at tlie hour of sun- 
set to see the (American) missionary burial-ground. 
Visit the graves of Prs. Grant and Lobdell, Mr. 
Laurie, Mrs. Mitchell and Williams, Mr. Hins- 
dale, and the children of the missionaries who 
have died here. It is beautifully situated on 
a slightly elevated ground, one mile from the 
city, in sight of the gardens, river Tigris, Jo- 
nah's tomb, and the snow-crowned mountains 
of Kurdistan in the distance. Blessed are the 
dead that die in the Lord. 

"Thursday, 13. 
1 'Have a very pleasant call from the Syrian 
Archbishop Behnan (Maphriaiij see Mbsheim). He 
wishes our assistance to secure justice to one of 
his Syrian people. We tell him there is an Evan- 
gelical Alliance at Constantinople, formed for this 
very object, and we would be glad to have him a 
member. Read to him the list of officers, the 
Dutch ambassador, Bishop Grobat, Mr. Nicolay- 
son. He replies, it is very good, and he will 
think of it. He says the Papists have much op- 
posed his work. I answer they have also opposed 
us in circulating the Bible. No Papists are mem- 
bers of this Alliance, only those who receive the 
Bible as their rule of faith. He says woe to him 
that stancleth alone, see Jeremiah. We are one 
if we are born of the Holy Spirit, one in Christ 



THE PASHA. 261 

Jesus. Tell him our desire to introduce the Bible 
into his school. He will be very thankful to 
have them. A very excellent, evangelical, intel- 
ligent, and interesting Archbishop of the (Orien- 
tal) Syrian Church. 

1 'In the evening have a meeting of the teachers 
of schools, and the boys who go from house to 
house to teach the natives, both men and women, 
to read, and instruct them in the Scriptures. A 
chapter is read in the Bible, questions asked, and 
an appropriate prayer offered by one of the teach- 
ers, and then we both addressed them on the im- 
portance of their work. 

"Fkiday, 14. 

" In the morning the kiljah of the Pasha calls. 
He is a very affable and courteous man. Tell 
him that my name originally signified Richter, 
Judge, cadi in Turkish, and English it is Eigh- 
ter (Daha Dogree). He says, we love you. your- 
self and still more for your name. I ask him for 
his name, and its signification. Ismidt (Glory). 
Tell him I am happy to see that the glory of his 
name has not departed. His ancestors won glory, 
and mine justice and right. He was a fine speci- 
men of a complimentary Turkish courtier. 

" Engages to send us a bourne ti and cavasses 
for our journey in the mountains. 

" Then we arrange with our katergio. After 



262 RIDE. 

we had finished our arrangements, to our great 
surprise, one of these rough muleteers burst forth 
with a volley of English words that perfectly 
amazed us. 

" Bide out with the ladies just at sunset and 
golden twilight. The evening star, the purity of 
the western horizon bounding the desert afar, and 
Jupiter brilliant in the blue sky, formed a scene 
of picturesque beauty I shall never forget, more 
like heaven than a scene of earth. 

"Iii the evening the Syrian Archbishop sends us 
his servant to bear his Christian salutation and a 
sermon on the Word of God, saying that his mind 
has been spiritually stirred up by our visit, and 
he is more desirous than ever to be zealously en- 
gaged in the cause of Christ. The discourse was 
translated to us, and was an excellent scriptural 
sermon. "We wrote his Grace an epistle in be- 
half of evangelical Christians in England and 
America, and requesting a copy of the sermon for 
publication ; also the Archbishop's views on the 
' all important doctrine of justification by faith.' 

''Saturday, 15. 
" In the morning we ride across the floating- 
bridge on the Tigris, and then gallop on and 
around the walls of Nineveh. We set out at the 
tomb of Jonah, and riding upon the top of the 
wall, we came to the angle of t\e wall that com- 



WALLS OF NINEVEH. 263 

mands a view down the river, at the south, to- 
ward Nimroud. Then we rode on, passing by the 
gateways at the sides, and came to an angle on the 
east that looks toward the snow crowned moun- 
tains of Kurdistan. The walls are still 20 feet 
high, and steep, wide enough for a horse to gal- 
lop on the top, though built of sun-dried bricks, 
and subject for two thousand years to the action 
of the elements and the hand of man ; at the bot- 
tom they are at least forty feet wide. Passing 
northward, we observed at the side traces of an 
outer wall, forming a wide trench between. We 
also distinctly marked gateways at intervals upon 
this side. In the centre a river flows directly 
through the city. On the northern angle there 
is a large mound, and also a palace gateway at 
the west, where huge winged bulls were found 
and sculptured slabs. The view from this point 
is beautiful, up the winding river toward the dis- 
tant mountains, as well to Mosul and the desert 
stretching far beyond. Then we rode to Koyun- 
juk, filled with excavations, and returned to our 
point of starting Nebly Yonas. 

a rp^Q r i ver originally, in all probability, flowed 
near the walls, and the gates were more frequent 
on the river side. The walls are now ploughed 
and sowed with grain, and Nineveh is also a 
ploughed field, and used as a place for spreading 
nets to catch birds. It was most interesting thus 



264 LAST SABBATH. 

to circumvent the walls, and behold the complete 
desolation of this ancient city under the judgment 
of God. We occupied an hour and a half in our 
ride of eight miles. The air was pure and brac- 
ing, and much we enjoyed the scene. 

" Returning we held a conference, by special 
appointment, with the Syrian Archbishop, at the 
house of the English Consul. He expresses a 
willingness to join the Evangelical Alliance. He 
also desirep to leave the errors of his church, and 
unite with the Church of England, if he can meet 
with sympathy and support. Or he will give up 
all, if need be, and hire a chapel and there preach 
only the Gospel and the Word of God. He seems 
to be very sincere, and we trust and pray that the 
Lord will abundantly strengthen him to do his 
will. It was a deeply interesting interview. In 
the evening made our final arrangements for de- 
parture on Monday. 

" Sunday, 16. 
" Attend Arabic service early in the morning, 
at the hour of sunrise. Mr. Marsh preaches on 
the third commandment. It is a pleasant hour to 
meet together for the worship of God. At eleven 
Mr. Jones gives us a sermon in English, 'My 
heart is fixed,' etc. Then we call upon the Arch- 
bishop and find him quite ill. He is unable to 
enter farther into the subject of the Evangelical 



LEAVE MOSUL. 265 

Alliance ; wishes it to be carried forward in writ- 
ing through. Mrs. Bussam. He seems very sin- 
cere, and entirely disposed to take the Bible alone 
for his rule of faith, and the Gospel for his hope 
of salvation. I tell him our prayer will be that 
the Holy Spirit may guide him in the way of all 
truth, and that we may meet in heaven at last. 
In the afternoon we have the communion service 
when Mr. Jones and I address them. It was a 
most interesting and solemn occasion. In the 
evening the native brethren meet at the house of 
Mr. Marsh, and he questions them upon the preach- 
ing of the day, and conducts prayers in Arabic. 
Again they thank us for coming from England 
and America to visit them in the name of Christ. 

"Monday, IT. 

" The Pasha sends his salaams, and regrets that 
himself, defterdar, and suite could not escort us 
out of the city, as the post had just arrived. 

"At noon the katugi and his animals come, 
and the cavasses, ready for our departure. We 
set out in due time, a highly respectable party in 
numbers and appearance. Dr. Haskell joins us. 
The native brethren on foot accompany us, and 
our friend Houaza Yohanna, wearing his decora- 
tion, and mounted on his fine Arab mare, beauti- 
fully caparisoned, escorts us across the river and 
some distance beyond. A cavass from the Pacha, 
23 



266 JOUENEY. 

and four zabtiers as a guard, accompany us. My 
Arab steed, Emir, is in full spirit, and we gallop 
on beautifully oyer the plain. The snow-covered 
mountains are in front, tinged with purple light, 
and the whole western sky is flooded with golden 
light. The air is mild and genial, and much I 
enjoy it. Mr. Marsh also joins us for the first 
night. Just at twilight we reach Tell Kef, a 
large town of 2,000 inhabitants, all Papal Nesto- 
rians or Chaldeans (Mussulmans and Christians). 
We are most comfortable, in a large, well-finished 
room, with a good fire, and an excellent dinner. 

"Tuesday, 18. 

" Have a comfortable night. The view from the 
country is beautiful. Gallop on over the plain 
past two Syrian villages, and in four hours arrive 
at El Eosh. It is beautifully situated just at the 
base of the mountain range. 

" The fig, pomegranate, and evergreen trees are 
growing beside the fountain and stream that flows 
through. This was the birthplace of the Prophet 
Nahum and the Elkoshite. He has often ploughed 
these fields and looked upon these scenes. We 
are very cordially received by the Kahyah Yusef, 
a Chaldean. He says that English, Americans, 
Chaldeans, are all one in Christ. Christ is our 
Master and Head. 

" He speaks in the highest terms of Dr. Grant; 



GAZELLES. 267 

says lie was an excellent man, and lias been in the 
village and in this very room. 

" After lunch, visited the tomb of the Prophet in 
a small church underneath the mountain. It is 
a small round tomb, covered with Persian cloth. 
We then ride on to a Yesidi village. It is very 
neat and comfortable. A woman rims down the 
hill to the doctor, and begs for medicine. Then 
we ride over a stony road past several Yesidi vil- 
lages. There were two large mounds on the 
plain. Oleanders are growing by the brooks. 
We start up gazelles near the mountain. They 
are beautiful creatures as they nimbly leap among 
the rocks. Just after sunset we reach the Yesidi 
village of Baadri. It is situated in a little valley 
with a stream flowing through, and planted with 
green trees. It is very neat and thrifty in ap- 
pearance. 

"Hassein Bey, to whom we have letters of intro- 
duction, receives in very gracious manner, shak- 
ing us cordially by the hand, and bidding us wel- 
come. He is a young man of amiable and agree- 
able address. The village contains a population 
of 500. 

"Wednesday, 19. 
" Have a very comfortable night. In the morn- 
ing our chief calls upon us and takes a cup of 
coffee. Then we call the Moolah, and present 



268 THE BIBLE. 

him with a copy of the Bible. He receives it 
very reverentially, and his priest began to read 
both in the Old and New Testament of the Crea- 
tion and Christ. Tell him we love this much in 
England and America. That we have much 
money, but we value this above all. That comes 
from the earth, this from God. He says he will 
read in it every day, and also to the people of his 
village. Tell him this speaks of Jesus Christ, 
who came from heaven, and through faith in 
Christ we hope to reach heaven. It was a most 
interesting scene. 

" Then the Bey walks with us to a hill that over- 
looks the village. Here is the ruin of his father's 
Palace, destroyed by Earoudoz Bey. The view 
is beautiful. Over the plain are sixty villages of 
Yesidis. As we come down we enter a native 
house. It is very neat and well constructed. 
Now we mount our horses, and the chief, with 
twenty horsemen, his son, Hassan, accompanies 
us. As the word is given, and the horses gallop 
on, the spears glitter in the sunlight, the music 
sounds. It is a gay and brilliant scene. Two 
are richly dressed in gold-embroidered red suits. 
The sheik is dressed in a light brown suit, neatly 
embroidered, and mounted on a fine black horse 
of Yesidi breed. Hassan, his son, is dressed in 
scarlet, and though only seven, rides a grey mare 
beautifully. It is a beautiful view over the hill 



DEVIL WOKSHIPPEES. 269 

as they gallop around in circles, and then close 
around their chief. In one hour we come to a 
white pointed tomb ; they dismount and kiss a 
flat stone in front, repeating a short prayer, and 
then ride on, singing as they go their native song. 
In another hour we come to a small ravine, 
through which a clear stream flows, and it is 
planted with oleanders and green trees. 

We now move on in single file for a half hour 
— come in sight of the white spires of Sheik Avi. 
Descending to a small valley they all dismount 
and pull off their shoes, and walk up to their 
sacred shrine. The chief folds his hands in front 
and walks barefoot in solemn style. It is a beau- 
tifully shaded place — green olive trees, oaks, 
with autumn tint and various shades ; the brook 
rustles through, and the birds are singing in the 
branches. I walk beside the Bey, and we enter 
the outer court of their temple. He and his men 
all walk around and kiss the sacred stones, and 
then we sit down under the shade of a large over- 
spreading vine to lunch. A stream of clear water 
is running through, and birds are singing beau- 
tifully. The blacksnake and hatchet are upon 
the wall outside. It is one of the most interest- 
ing visits I have ever made, and all are so amia- 
ble and courteous I cannot realize that we are in 
the midst of the hated devil worshippers. Then 
the door of their temple was opened, and we 
2S* 



270 NESTORIANS. 

entered. A large fountain of water is in one side, 
and at the other two tombs with curtains drawn 
before them. One is said to contain the devil's 
head. Lamps are kept continually burning be- 
fore them. I then presented the sheik with a 
copy of the Bible, in Arabic, to be kept in their 
temple and read at their festivals, and whenever 
any one came who wished to read it. We then 
gave our cards to Hassein Bey and gave him our 
parting salutations. He was exceedingly gracious 
and gentle to the last. I was greatly pleased 
with him, and trust our visit will do good to the 
Yesidis. He gives us two horsemen, with spears, 
and one footman, as a guard and guide. The 
valley is exceedingly romantic and beautiful, 
planted with the fig, the olive, and the oak, and 
resounding with the notes of singing birds. We 
now pursue a hilly winding road — past black 
Koordish tents and small villages, and then come 
to a wild ravine with a stream dashing over the 
rocks and the*mountain rising steep on either side 
— a scene of great wildness and beauty. The 
road is rough and steep. In two hours more 
climbing up the mountain side, we came to the 
village of Bebosi, all Chaldeans or Catholic 
Nestorians. 

t; Thursday, 20. 
" Sleep well in a warm native house. The views 



SPINDUKA. 271 

at sunrise from the housetop in the midst of the 
mountains are beautiful. The reddening and the 
rosy light. The village is partly in ruins. Eide 
on through a rocky wooded glen, where figs and 
olives grow in the valley, and oaks cover the 
mountain side, and rest at an angle of the road in 
a shady spot refreshed by the cooling breeze. In 
a half hour we come to a point that commands 
a view over a fertile valley with villages at the 
side, and a wild deep ravine winding through the 
mountain. Descending thence, we lunched under 
a wide-spreading oak, with this scene stretching 
before us. We rode on over steep, rough, rocky 
mountains, and in four hours arrived at the vil- 
lage of Spindura, upon a sloping hillside. There 
was much excitement upon our arrival; nearly 
the whole village turned out on the housetops to 
witness the important event. The population is 
three hundred and fifty, entirely Moslems. 

"Friday, 21. 
" The patients come round in the morning to 
show their diseases and receive their medicines 
with much gratitude. "We ride three hours over 
a very rugged mountain, and lunch in a quiet 
little valley by a clear stream flowing down the 
mountain. Then three hours more over a rough 
road intersected by ravines and come in sight of 
Amadia, perched high upon the rocks. We 



272 MOODIK. 

toiled up the steep hillside late in the evening, 
and find the large gate shut. We rap at the gate, 
and they hail us from the wall to inquire who we 
are, and where we came from. Our cavass replies, 
that he is Achmet Effendi, the Pasha's man, and 
a distinguished party had arrived. They, how- 
ever, had heard our guns of salute fired and sus- 
pect us of being a party of robber Koords, fifteen 
in number. The cavass says we have come from 
the Pasha, and have a firman from the Sultan. 
The capugi replies, I do not know who you are ; 
and thus we are kept waiting an hour in the cold 
and dark. At length the Moodir and several of 
his principal men came with lanterns, and the 
gates were opened with great carefulness and dis- 
play. How great was our delight when our good 
friend Shemmas Jeremiah of Mosul, embraced us, 
and bid us welcome. The Moodir also extended 
both hands, and bid us welcome. He had walked 
down from his palace to receive us, and his suite ac- 
companied us to the Serai. There his largest room 
fitted for our reception, and a warm fire made 
us most comfortable. Immediately he ordered an 
oriental dinner of six or eight courses, rice, 
chickens, mutton, cakes, preserves, etc., and closes 
up with chibouk, coffee, and sherbet. He gives 
us also a warm cloak of fur. Our room is hung 
round with various arms, swords, pistols, guns, 
for impressive effect. 



A PEIEST. 273 

"Saturday, 22. 

" A beautiful, clear morning of pure air. The 
Dr. has many patients, the Moodir s wife's sister, 
the Usbashi (Major), etc. One of them says he 
is not sick, but wishes to get fat like the Moodir. 
Go to see three full length sculptures of kings, 
cut in the rock outside the wall, very ancient, now 
much broken and defaced. Then we make a call 
upon the Usbashi (Major), at the barracks. The 
Pasha's commissioners are there. They rise as 
we approach, and receive us upon carpets and 
cushions in the open air. The sky is pure, and 
the air delightful, and the view of the mountain 
ranges, the valley and villages, and the whole 
panorama around is magnificent. 

" The priest from Deirra, a Nestorian village, 
one hour distant, calls to see us, population fifty. 
Six can read, have the Bible in the church, and 
have Testaments in the village ; wishes all to have 
the Testament. He preaches when they have the 
sacrament, twenty or thirty times a year. He 
preaches repentance, has a congregation of forty ; 
has prayers every day, morning and evening, 
and two services on Sunday. Just now a 
band of the Moodir's Koordish soldiers return 
from one of the mountain districts, armed with 
guns and swords, on foot and on horseback, with 
the music of drums, in great style. They had 
been out to gather taxes from the villages around. 



274 DARE. 

Then we call upon the Moodir and Commissioners, 
in liis reception room, and have an audience with 
them ; very pleasant. In the evening Shemmas 
Jeremiah relates his history and experience. He 
was a Catholic Nestorian or Chaldean monk, in a 
convent near Elkosh. He was directed to the 
1st of Timothy, 4th chapter, first three verses. He 
reflected upon this, went to the missionaries at 
Mosul, Dr. Perkins and Mr. Stocking, from 
Oroomeah. He went with them and taught in 
their schools, and there embraced the truth. Ama- 
dich has a population of 2,500, of whom 2000 are 
Moslems, 350 Syrians, 100 Nestorians, and 50 
Jews; formerly it contained 14,000, and was the 
residence of the Sultan. 

'•Sunday, 23. 
"This morning the brother of Osman Bey, 
Abuzed Bey, the Koordish chief, calls to see us. 
We then receive a call from the Moodir. He 
offers us his horse to ride out and visit the Nesto- 
rians in Dare. We descend the steep hill-side 
without the walls. On the right is a beautiful 
valle3 r , planted with trees and gardens. In a few 
minutes the priest, on horseback, and a number 
of his people come out to meet us, and escort us 
to their village. We climb a steep hill and then 
come down to Dare, a beautiful little village under 
the high mountain rock. A pure spring of water 



INTERESTING PEOPLE. 275 

gushes out and flows down the valley. Trees and 
fertile gardens with nuts, pomegranates, figs, and 
grapes are in front. We visit the church, a large 
stone building with three arched rooms. They 
have cotton, nuts, onions, and various fruit offer- 
ings given to support the church. "We send to 
call the people, and they assemble, old men, 
women, and children, priest and deacon, thirty in 
number, when we all preach to them the Gospel 
of salvation, through faith in Christ. They listen 
with much interest and reverence, and respond 
frequently to the word of everlasting life. 

" Then we sit out with them in the open air, 
they gather around on their knees in a circle, and 
say they will put a chain upon us to keep us long 
with them. The summer retreat of the Mosul 
missionaries is here. 

" There are no pictures in the church but a 
small cross, which they say they kiss from love 
to Christ. Then they bring us a lunch of pome- 
granates, honey, nuts, eggs, and bread, which we 
eat in the shade, and much enjoy it together. 
After which we talk further of Christ and his 
cross, etc., and then ride down to Komani, past 
fields of rice, cotton, wheat, tobacco, and gardens 
of various fruit trees. Komani has a new, neat 
church, and contains a population of 800, all JSTes- 
torians. The people are delighted to see us, and 
salute us with much respect and reverence. We 



276 DR. GRANT. 

called them into the church, and spoke to them 
of their sins, Christ, repentance, and eternal sal- 
vation. They listened with intense interest and 
frequently responded, and seemed greatly to enjoy 
the truth. They desire much to have an Ameri- 
can missionary to come and live among them, to 
teach them the Bible and to preach to them the 
Gospel of salvation. Eight in the village can 
read and they have no Bible. It was a Sabbath 
of great interest among the mountain Nestorians. 
They are a simple-hearted, pure-minded people, 
and entirely ready to receive the Gospel. 

"We also visited the house where Dr. Grant 
lived in Amadia. There he spent some time in 
the midst of his labors of love and mercy to this 
people. The owner of the house, a venerable old 
man, lived with him. He says since the days of 
Adam in the flesh, there was never such a man. 
He prayed much, read his Bible, and preached 
the Gospel to all. The Holy Ghost was with him 
in all that he said and did. 

" Monday, 24. 
" This morning the Moodir calls upon us, and 
the Usbashi, or commander of the fortress, and a 
number of patients came for medicine. Then a 
Moslem sheik and the Usbashi, or Major of the 
troops. Afterward the Commissioners of the 
Pasha came in to smoke a chibouk and take cof- 



0SMA1ST BEY. 277 

fee with, us, and then Osman Bey, the Koordish 
chief, a very bold, fearless man in appearance, 
and having much of the fierce spirit of his native 
mountains. See also the woman, a widow and 
her daughter, who had been stripped of all her 
possessions by a plundering Koordish chief, and 
listen to her tale of oppression and wrong. Saw 
also one Jew, a probable descendant of the ten 
captive tribes. He says there are 500 Jews in 
Amadia. They have been waiting 1800 years for 
(Christ) the Messiah, and he has not come yet. 

"Tuesday, 25. 

" Aalam Effendi Moodir,.of Amadieh, a very 
kind, hospitable man. 

" A cold foggy rainy morning. The snow is 
on the mountains. The Moodir, mounted on his 
Arab horse, with a band of his attendants and a 
band of music, escorted us out of the city, and then 
he gives us his salaams in parting. We ride over 
to the Nestorian village of Bibudi. ' The villagers 
all gather on the housetops to welcome us ; they 
are exceedingly friendly. It is a wedding day, 
and they are all dressed in their gay clothing. 
The church is a very neat stone building with a 
low door. They all come around, priests, dea- 
cons, men, women, and children, and we preach 
the Gospel to them ; tell them to believe the 
Bible, trust in God, have faith in Christ, and 
24 



278 NESTORIAN VILLAGES. 

pray for the Holy Spirit to dwell in their hearts, 
and guide them to everlasting life. They heartily 
respond, and greatly desire a missionary to live 
among them, and teach them the way of eternal 
salvation ; they wished that we should stay with 
them. The village is beautifully situated under 
the mountain range, and overlooking the valley. 
We then pursue our way. The fog rests on the 
mountain, and clears from the landscape before 
us. The sun shines out underneath the clouds 
upon the white waterfalls and snow-capped peaks, 
like a scene of resplendent glory, more beautiful 
in its effect than any I have ever before seen. 
Pass through two Chaldean Catholic Nestorian 
villages, and arrive at evening at Daoudich. The 
Moodir Achmed Effendi, a very pleasant gentle- 
man, receives us with much hospitality and gives 
us a cordial reception in his palace castle. The 
landscape to day was most beautiful. The fields 
are cultivated with grain, rice, and olive trees. 
The mountain ranges rise on either hand, and the 
valley stretches before us in picturesque and 
varied beauty. 

" Daoudich contains a population of eighty 
Catholic Nestorians. A small Nestorian village 
is about one hour distant. "We have a very ani- 
mated conversation in the evening with the 
Moodir, on the subject of religious liberty. He 
says there is the same God over Moslems, Chris- 



NEKESHKO. 279 

tians, Jews, and Yesidees, and all should be 
brothers. 

"Wednesday, 26. 

" A fine view from the castle fort, of the rugged 
snow-crowned mountains and beaiitiful fertile 
valley around. The Moodir, with his attendants 
on horseback, accompanies us a short distance 
on the way. We ride on three hours over a 
hilly country well cultivated, growing grain and 
grapes. Guards receive us on the road in military 
style. Then we come to the village of Baroski ; 
300, all Mussulmans, very neat. We lunch in a 
comfortable place. Nice dried grapes are brought 
to us. 

" We take a guard of five men, and travel over 
a similarly cultivated country, and arrive in two 
hours at the village of Nereshko for the night. 
There are sixty inhabitants, all Moslems; the 
women go unveiled. Our room is filled with 
wheat, rice, and barley, in sacks piled to the roof. 
The situation is elevated and beautiful. Fevers 
seem to prevail in all this region, resulting prin- 
cipally from irrigating the rice and tobacco fields. 

" Thursday, 21. 
"We ride over a hilly country planted with 
wheat, grain, and cotton, and in two and a half 
hours come to the Koordish village of Tel Akro, 



280 CHEBAE. 

about fifty inhabitants, situated under the hillside. 
Then we pass across a branch of the Kabour, and 
beside the large river itself, flowing with a rapid 
current. The strong castle of a robber chief rises 
alone on the rugged mountains of Kala. We 
lunch in a rocky glen beside- a little stream of 
pure water. 

" Then we continue on our way and come to a 
Koordish encampment, cochers, robbers, in a little 
valley of black tents. Afterward we ride along 
the river Kabour, the ancient Chebar, and in 
two hours come in sight of Zakho. A large 
tower castle rises in front, and two bridges across 
the river ; the first called Del Ali, pretty woman, so 
called because a Koordish chief saw her there. We 
arrive at 4 p.m. at Zakho, and are received very 
respectfully at first by the Moodir, but a Catholic 
insists upon having us put in a shabby room. 
We send for the Moodir, and assert our rights 
with the Sultan's firman, and he then gives us 
the first place and good attention. * The Moodir 
is Shemdin Agha, a fine-looking Koord with a 
black beard. Zakho has a population 2,000 ; 
1,500 Jews, 500 Moslems, 40 Christians. 

" The Moodir very politely brings grapes, figs, 
pomegranates, etc., for our entertainment, and we 
spend a very pleasant evening, smoking chibouks 
and drinking coffee sociably together. 



DIARBEKIR. 281 

"Friday, 28. 

"We are now in the Pashalic of Diarbekir. 
After breakfast the Moodir calls and brings his little 
son, a fine boy, with his sword girt on. Then go 
to visit the Jews ; find them in the synagogue at 
their prayers ; see the Kabbi, a venerable old 
man with a white beard; have been here 200 
years ; show me their Hebrew books, and a copy 
of the law rolled up like a scroll. They gather 
around me with much interest ; are pleased to 
know that I have been to Jerusalem ; they come 
from all lands. A very interesting visit. The 
Moodir mounted on a fine Arab mare, with his 
guard of honor, escorts us on the way. We cross 
the bridge of Del Ali, and one hour and a half 
along the plain, come to the village of Durnoc, 
now Moslem, formerly Christian. There is here 
a deserted church now used as a stable. Now 
we ford the deep river, and ride over the plain 
one hour, and lunch beside a running brook. 
We gallop on over the plain, see forty or fifty 
gazelles, and large birds like ostriches. Here the 
great battle between Darius and Alexander was 
fought. In two hours we arrive at the village of 
Narhawur. 50 population, 25 Protestants and 
25 Catholics. Stop at the house of Shemmas 
Paulo, Deacon Paul, a Protestant, who receives 
us with much rejoicing. The priest, a Protestant, 
calls in to visit us, and many of the villagers 
24* 



282 ezekiel's vision. 

gather around. He is in the employ of the mis- 
sionaries, and teaches school in his own house ; is 
a pleasant-looking man with a black beard. 

" The situation of the village is beautiful, on a 
little mound, near a stream of water, overlooking 
the plain. The sunset scene is lovely from the 
house-top, the deep, golden light in the west, and 
the rosy tint resting on the snow-capped moun- 
tains, and the whole landscape stretching before 
me of unusual beauty. The river Kabour flows 
through, and here doubtless the Prophet Ezekiel 
saw his sublime visions of Jehovah most high. 
In the evening fifteen or sixteen of the Nestorians 
gather in the room of the Kahy ah, seated on their 
knees in a circle, and we speak to them of Christ 
and the Grospel of salvation. They listen with deep 
attention. They then tell us of the oppression of 
the Moslems. There are twenty-two men, and 
they pay one-tenth of their grain, 1332 piastres 
tax, and soldiers are quartered upon them, from 
two to twenty every night without pay, and as it is 
on the high road, it is a serious grievance. Every 
forty -four Christians must pay 5000 piastres for 
one soldier. 

"Saturday, 29. 
" Sleep in the same room with our horses, three 
apartments, harem, male sleeping-room, and stable. 
The sunrise view from the house-top is magnifi- 



THE TIGRIS. 283 

cent, over the eastern mountains. Yonder comes 
the powerful king of day rejoicing in the East. 
What golden glory gilds his chariot wheels, shed- 
ding over the snow-crowned mountain tops. We 
ride on two hours over the plain, have another 
gazelle chase, and then we come in sight of the 
Tigris again. It comes flowing down with a 
whirling, eddying current. We ride two hours 
beside the river, and lunch in view of the blue 
mountains, stretching far in the distance. Soon 
we come upon an eminence near the Tigris, to the 
castle and minarets of Jesireh, and then in two 
hours along the river-side, we arrive at Mansoira, 
a Nestorian village of 300 population. It com- 
mands a fine view of the river, the mountains, 
and the plain around. The Kahyah comes out on 
foot to receive us, and politely kisses our hand. 
He quarters us in a spacious native house, with 
two large rooms, and a stable attached, separated 
by a hall. Here we expatiate in grand style, 
much entertained by the habits of the natives, 
baking in a round oven ; a young girl of sixteen 
pounding bulgoar in a stone mortar, with a huge 
mallet. They gather in our room in the evening; 
have no Bibles or Testaments in the village. A 
Koordish chief, Bzdesher Bey, came and plun- 
dered the village, and carried away all their Tes- 
taments and religious books. 



284 VILLAGERS. 

"Sabbath, Nov. 30, 1856. 

"Mansoria, a Nestorian village. A clear and 
cloudless morning. Have a splendid view over 
the river, and the hills round about from the 
house-top. The priest calls to see us, a pleasant, 
amiable man. Present him with a copy of the 
Ingil in Chaldean and Syriac. Shemmas Eremiah 
reads and explains it to him. He says it is very 
good and he receives it with much gratitude and 
thankfulness. 

" Then we assemble the villagers in the church 
with the priest, and give them the open Gospel, 
and tell them to read it, and follow its teachings 
to guide them to heaven. Tell them to believe 
the Bible, have faith in Christ, and pray for the 
Holy Spirit to dwell in their hearts and sanctify 
them unto everlasting life. They pay most devout 
attention and frequently respond ' Yes, yes, it is 
true.' 

a It is most interesting to preach to these poor, 
oppressed Christians, who believe in Christ, on the 
banks of the ancient Tigris. Entreat them to 
pray that Moslems, Nestorians, Jacobites, Yezi- 
dees, all may receive the same Gospel and become 
brothers together in Christ Jesus. The dress of 
the women ; white head-dress, loose robe, long 
braid to the hair, bracelets and beads on their 
arms, and anklets on their feet, and many silver 
coins on their head and neck. The men wear a 



MR. STODDARD. 285 

conical felt cap, bound around -with a red figured 
turban. In the afternoon they came to the Hakem 
for medicine, and are very friendly. At sunset 
see the ground where the great battle between 
Beder Khan Bey and Rescind Pasha was fought. 
A Koordish chief, who plundered the Christian 
villages, and was taken captive by the Turks, is 
now a prisoner in the island of Crete. 

" Also look over to Mount Judy, where Noah's 
ark is said to have rested, a high mountain, 
covered with snow. Beyond, near Elkosh, is 
Am Sifna where tradition relates that Noah built 
his ark. 

"In the evening the priest comes from Shah, 
the bishop feared to come because he thought we 
might make him Catholic or Protestant. Isaac, 
the teacher, comes with him, who has been in- 
structed in Oroomiah by Mr. Stoddard ; give to 
Isaac a Testament to carry to Maraha, a Nestorian 
village, two hours distant, about 150 population, 
fifteen can read ; they very much desire a Bible, 
send also a Bible and Gospel by the Priest Isaiah 
to the Nestorian bishop, Mar Joseph, at Shah, a 
village six hours distant, 200 population ; send 
also a letter to testify that American Christians 
love much the Nestorians and desire them all to 
receive the Bible and Gospel of salvation. We 
dine upon a young kid of a goat. A girl sits at 
the outer door with a dish of porridge in her hand 



286 NESTORIAN PRAYERS. 

to give some from a spoon to all the poor who 
come to receive it. Shemmas Eremiah is very 
entertaining in conversation. Koordish proverb, 
1 If he see me I am friend, if he not see me I am 
thief. 7 Nestorian prayer in church, glory to God 
in the highest, on earth peace, good will to men, 
then the Lord's Prayer. Cry from the minaret, 
Alia hou achbar, twice repeated, Allah la il Allah, 
etc. The Catholics come in the evening and we 
preach the truth to them. 

"Monday, Dec. 1. 

" Attend the Nestorian prayer in the morning 
before sunrise. The priest alone, in a dark room, 
repeats them from memory ; two prayers and five 
or six psalms. He can repeat all the Psalms by 
heart. One old woman comes, none of the peo- 
ple. We ride to Jesireh, have much detention in 
crossing the river ; find there a new Moodir, Sadik 
Agha, a fine-looking, energetic man, who receives 
us with much politeness. The Medghis come in, 
Cadi, and various dignitaries, ten in number; 
2,000 population, 1,500 Moslems, 500 Christians. 

" Meet with Lord Henry Ker, of the English 
embassy to Persia, travelling by post, and bearer 
of despatches to Diarbekir and Aleppo. He dines 
with us in Anglo-Turkish style. We then bid 
farewell to our friends, Shemmas and the Doctor, 
and ride in company with his Lordship two hours 
upon the road. He is a very affable and pleasant 



MOUNT JUDY. 287 

gentlemen, twenty years of age, and has travelled 
much, in the East. "We ride two hours longer 
over a very stony road, and arrive just at sunset 
at the Koordish village of Hemdik; 10 houses, 
50 population ; situated in the midst of the plain, 
bounded by snow-crowned mountains. 

i; Tuesday, 2. 

" Have a splendid sunrise view from our house- 
top over Mount Judy, where tradition relates that 
Noah's ark rested, and the dove plucked the 
olive branch from the plain. 

"In one hour came to the village of Babin, an 
old ruined town. The Onbashi refuses us a horse- 
man. We continue our way past two small 
Koordish villages, over a wretchedly rough, 
rocky road, and lunch at noon on a little green 
spot in sight of the village of Ainser. Just before 
sunset arrive at Deir Ona. The Moodir is hold- 
ing his medghis in the open air, clothed in a scarlet 
cloak. He is very civil — says he will give me 
horsemen, and begs me not to report the Onbashi 
to the Pasha, who dishonored the Sultan's firman 
— One hundred and fifty population, Moslems and 
Jacobites. Hadji Suleiman Agha, very civil — 
comes himself on his fast horse, one half hour, to 
make ready a konak for us. 

11 We spend the night at the Koordish village 
of Atim — forty population ; ten Jacobites. 



288 views. 

" Wednesday, 3. 

"We are in the saddle at sunrise ; in one hour 
we cross the plain with the Sinjar hills on our left 
and the Marian mountain on our right, and the 
vast (chul) desert stretching before us, we come to 
the village Bannet, on a little mound — one hun- 
dred and fifty Jacobites, Armenians, and Moslems. 
The villages are all upon raised mounds ; peasants 
are ploughing and sowing in the fields, and the 
land is productive. 

" The white church of Nisilin is seen in the 
morning sunlight far away. 

" We lunch at noon in sight of the snow-crowned 
mountains just rising above the wide spreading 
plain like peaks of light and purity exceedingly 
beautiful. A raised mound gives us a splendid 
view in all directions ; stop at the village. The 
Kahya Shuhuro is very polite and cordial in his 
greetings and attention. We then gallop on across 
the plain, passed several mound-built villages, 
and in two hours come in sight of the large bar- 
rack of Nisilin. Mule falls sick on the way; 
treatment and tears of muleteers. Meet several 
troops of soldiers, a Koordish chief with his guard 
— see the women coming to the wells with their 
rope to draw water ; arrive at sunset across the 
river Chebar at "Nisilin. Again we see another 
river where the Prophet Ezekiel is said to have 
seen the sublime visions of Jehovah and his glory. 



ROMAN EUINS. 289 

We find a curious room full of soldiers seated 
round a good fire, smoking and drinking coffee. 
Call upon the nakie of Moodir ; send for the 
Usbashi, and dispatch two horsemen for our 
mules. Have a long konak, and comfortable 
quarters for the night. 

" Thursday, 4. 

" See the ancient river Chebar from the house- 
top winding far through the plain. We ride two 
hours over the plain. On the left partly desert, on 
the right cultivated land, and arrive at the ruined 
barracks, Eusser Sercha Hhan. A few miserable 
Arabs are quarrelling over their measures of 
barley ; a half dozen stone huts filled with women 
and children are inclosed within the ancient walls. 

" We lunch to-day upon the open plain. Then 
in two hours we come to Bar a. It is well situated 
on a hillside in front of the great plain$ and beside 
a stream of pure water. 

"Here are extensive old Eoman ruins, temples, 
theatres, bridges, immense blocks of hewn stone, 
and all the marks of their ancient power. Also 
many tombs and sepulchres cut in the rock. Two 
hours more over hill and valley bring us at sun- 
set to the village of Hariri; three hundred and 
fifty population — all Arabs, who spend the win- 
ter in their houses here, and in summer take their 
tents and flocks^ and go out into the desert. The 

25 



290 PATRIARCH. 

Kahaya Seid Hassein is a good specimen of the 
Arab character ; invite him to come to England ; 
have a pleasant talk with him in the evening. 
The Shammar Sinjar and Anasee, occupy the 
whole of the desert to Baghdad and Damascus. 
He says the Sinjar are no more ; they have become 
Yezidee. The village is situated near an old 
mound, and beside a well and running water. 
See a large caravan of camels coming in the even- 
ing to rest here. 

" Friday, 5. 

" Beautiful morning; see women and girls draw- 
ing water from the well with their own ropes, to 
water the mules and camels, as in Scripture days, 
in ancient Mesopotamia. 

"We then ride across the fertile plain to the 
mountain side. Mardm rises high above us with 
a castle fortress higher still. The air is pure and 
bracing. The son of the Kahya, mounted on his 
fine Arab horse, performs feats of horsemanship 
in curves and circles around us. Climbing over 
the rugged, rocky ascent in one hour, we come 
to the convent Deir Zaferran, the residence of the 
Patriarch of the Jacobite Church, in the East, 
Patriarch Jacob. It is beautifully and securely 
situated, commanding a wide view over the plain 
and desert. There is good water, cistern, well, 
fountain, springs. Grapes and figs are cultivated, 



RELIGIOUS SERVICES. 291 

and wheat and barley. The Patriarch and his 
vakel are absent. Two of his Eahab and Shemmas, 
Priests and Deacons, receive us very kindly and 
provide ns with eggs, cheese and bread for refresh- 
ment. They show us through the convent, and to 
the church. It is adorned with red-colored paint- 
ings of the Saviour, the Apostles, Saints, and the 
Virgins upon the walls. They do not worship 
these as do the Catholics, but pray to Christ alone. 
They have a large silver gilt Gospel before the high 
altar. I find a copy of the Bible in Arabic and 
Syrian here. 

" They pray seven times a day, and spend the 
remainder of their time in writing manuscripts. 
They pray at midnight and before sunrise, mid- 
day and sunset ; three times in the church. The 
wooden bell, struck with a large stick, sounds the 
hour for prayers at noon. We attended the ser- 
vice in the church. They cross themselves, bow 
down, chant their prayer from a book, then draw 
aside the curtain from before the high altar, 
where a lamp is burning, then cross and prostrate 
themselves, and chant a short prayer again. 
The chapel is hung round with glass and gilded 
lamps. They all go forward and kiss the cover 
of the Gospel and the stone of St. John. They 
listen with much interest and with tears in their 
eyes to our spiritual conversation, after service. 
We tell them they must pray for the Holy 



292 MARDIN". 

Spirit to guide them in the way of all truth. 
The Saviour promised to his disciples to give 
them the Comforter, to dwell within them unto 
everlasting life. They must pray not only with 
the lips, but wittuthe heart. A very interesting 
visit. We then came into a smooth winding path 
among the hills (stone churches cut in the rocks, 
rise high above), and in one half hour we arrive 
at the Jacobite village of Kala Mora (Woman 
Castle). High above is a strong castle held by a 
woman against Tamerlane the Great, until he re- 
tired from its walls. A few minutes more bring 
us in sight of Mardin, a strong walled city on 
the mountain side, overlooking the plain and 
desert that stretches 280 miles towards the south. 
A strong fortified and strongly guarded castle 
commands the whole. Mardin has a population 
of 10,000; 5,000 Moslems; 2,000 Jacobites; 
2,000 Armenians; 400 Chaldeans ; 500 Assy rians ; 
100 Jews. We are met at the gate by a cavass, 
who conducts us to the house of Howadji Yaseph, 
a Catholic Armenian of large wealth. He re- 
ceives us very hospitably into an elegantly car- 
peted and cushioned room, and makes every 
effort to contribute to our entertainment. The 
Pasha also sends his Usbashi (major) to meet and 
accompany us to the Eonak, and inquire what is 
our wish. Then we pay him a visit at the house 
of Suleiman Agha (Caimakan). Aali Pasha re- 



bishop. 293 

ceives us with, great courtesy. He is a noble, 
soldier-like man, of much, personal presence. He 
was engaged in the war on the Danube and at 
Kars. He is a great friend of General Williams 
and the English. We tell him that our journey 
thus far in the Turkish empire, from Stambou], 
has been very agreeable, as we have a great fir- 
man from the Sultan. We have been treated 
with much politeness by all the Pashas, Moodirs, 
and officers of the Sultan. Only one Usbashi 
have we met with who said he did not know the 
Sultan Abdul Medjid or his firman ; neither did 
he care for the Pasha, and he would give us no 
guard. He immediately sends for his usbashi, 
(major) and orders the corporal to be removed 
from office, arrested, and brought to Mardin in 
irons. Thus summarily is justice dispensed in 
Turkey. He was dressed in Frank style, and 
very cordial in his manner. 

" Eeturning thence, the Jacobite bishop (Matran 
Joseph) calls upon us. A fine-looking, benevo- 
lent, venerable man, .very like the archbishop of 
Mosul. He loves much the Bible, is well in. 
structed in the Scriptures, arid desires all his 
people to have the Bible. It comes from God, 
tells us of Jesus Christ and the Gospel of salva- 
tion, and guides us to heaven. 

" We tell him if we both pray for the holy spirit to 
dwell in our hearts, we may hope to meet in heaven. 
. 25* 



294 pasha. m 

"We then go out to take a Turkish bath. Our 
host has it all made ready, clean, and scented 
with incense. We are greatly refreshed, and re- 
turn with a good appetite for dinner. Our host 
dines with us at his round table, loaded with 
various and excellent dishes, pilaff, meats, peaches, 
etc. We have pleasant spiritual conversation at 
dinner ; he seems to be a true Christian at heart. 
He is a noble specimen of an Armenian gentle- 
man, dressed in a fur robe, with black hair and 
eyes, intelligent and affable. He wishes to send 
his children to America, or England to be edu- 
cated. He is an adopted son of the Sultan, and 
all his property falls into his hand when he dies. 
He is also the head of all the Eayahs in the 
city. 

" Our beds are made in comfortable style, and 
we retire very agreeably for the night. 

" Saturday 6. 
" A magnificent morning. The Aali Pasha and 
the Carmakan Suleiman Agha call upon us this 
morning at our konak. We have a very plea- 
sant visit with his Excellency ; he is exceedingly 
courteous and polite. A fine, commanding man. 
Our host accompanied us on horseback without 
the walls of the city. The road is more steep, 
rugged, and rocky beyond description. In two 
hours and a half we lunch on the sunny mountain 



LAST LETTEE. 295 

side, near a stream of cool water, and have before 
us a wide-reaching view of the surrounding land- 
scape." 

These were probably the last words that Mr. 
Eighter wrote. On this day he complained of 
being unwell, and in a few days he was no more. 

The following was found in his coat pocket 
after his death, and was broken off like his own 
career, in the midst : 

" Mosul, Asia Minor, Nov. 14, 1856. 

"My Dear Mother: How greatly we have 
enjoyed our visit to this distant missionary sta- 
tion, on the river Tigris, near the city of Nineveh, 
to which Jonah preached at the command of the 
Lord ; and they repented in sackcloth and ashes, 
and ' God repented of the evil that he had said 
that he would do unto them and did it not/ but 
afterwards overthrew the city for their sins with 
terrible destruction. 

" The good missionary brethren have given us 
almost an angel's welcome in this far-off land. 
Yesterday we rode out to visit the ruins of Nine- 
veh, that was destroyed by fire, and is now buried 
beneath the crumbling earth of sun-dried brick. 
The gateways, palaces, and temples have been 
excavated in deep trenches. We descended un- 
derground into these, and there saw the huge, 



296 * RUINS OF NINEVEH. 

humai?.-headed winged bulls, standing where they 
were worshipped, at the entrance of the palace 
temple. 

" We saw also the battle scenes of the ancient 
Assyrians traced upon the walls of their temples : 
the king in his chariot, the discharge of arrows, 
the conflict and victory, and the captives brought 
from far. The siege, too, of a walled city, the 
towers, battlements, and palm-trees of ancient Tyre, 
that was conquered by the Assyrians. The cunei- 
form, arrow-headed, ancient writing, describing 
these scenes, was also traced upon the blocks of 
stone underneath. It was most interesting to see 
with 



CHAPTER XXI. 

LAST ILLNESS AND DEATH. 

"While Mr. Righter was making the entry in 
his note-book with which the preceding chapter 
closes, he was suffering from the attack of disease 
which terminated his valuable life. No account 
of this last illness could be given in such fitting 
and expressive language as that which is con- 
tained in the letters of his travelling companion, 
Rev. Mr. Jones, and of the missionaries at Diar- 
bekir, where it pleased God, in the great kind- 
ness of his providence, that his life should be ter- 
minated. Nowhere upon the face of the earth, 
save in the home of his parents, could he have 
breathed out his life with more tender evidences 
of the loving-kindness of his heavenly Father, 
into whose home he was taken. He died lite- 
rally in the midst of brethren and sisters, and all 
the offices which long love could have performed 
were bestowed upon him. The letter of Dr. Nut- 
ting, at whose house he died, gives a full account 
of his last illness, and this is first quoted : 



298 LETTER. 



LETTER FROM REV. DAVID H. NUTTING, M.D. 

"Diarbekir, Assyria, December 16th, 1856. 
"To the Parents, Brothers, and Sisters of 

"the late Eev. C. 1ST. Eighter. 

" Dear Friends — A sad duty now devolves 
upon me : I am to undertake to give you an ac- 
count of the last sickness of your son and brother. 
You will have learned from the letter of Eev. 
Mr. Jones, his companion in travel, that Mr. E. 
did not consider himself sick until the 6th instant, 
the day they left Mardin, a city about fifty miles 
soiith of this, although he had for two or three 
weeks previous had little appetite, and sometimes 
complained of chilliness. At their noon lunch 
that day, when he made his last entry in his jour- 
nal, he complained of being very chilly, although 
he had three coats on, and was sitting in the sun, 
and had his servant hold an umbrella to protect 
him from the wind. I^rom that place they had 
ridden on only about two hours, when, as Mr. E. 
still felt cold and somewhat ill,, it was thought 
best that they turn aside to a village, called Zalin- 
kir, to spend the night and Sabbath. They hoped 
that by taking some thoroughwort or sage tea to 
induce perspiration that night, and resting the 
next day, he would be well and able to proceed 
to Diarbekir on Monday the 8th. But Monday 



MR. JONES. 299 

came, and he was not well : had suffered much 
pain in right side and shoulder, and had some 
feverishness. Mr. Jones administered some medi- 
cine to him (very suitable to his condition, I think), 
and it operated favorably, and the next morning 
he was much better. It was decided that Mr. 
Jones go on with one servant and zabtier to Diar 
bekir that day (and inform me of Mr. B.'s sick- 
ness, so that I could go clown to meet him), 
leaving Mr. E., with the other servant, and zab- 
tier, and carterj ees, to start on two or three hours 
after sunrise, when the morning frost would have 
disappeared. He hoped to be able to proceed 
five or six hours that day, and the following to 
reach this city. That evening Mr. Jones came, 
and to our great surprise Mr. E. came, not with 
him. He immediately told us that he left Mr. E. 
ill a few hours out, but that he was much better 
that morning, and hoped he would be able to 
come easily the one day's journey in two. 

" In the morning, after breakfast, with our 
good Deacon Shimas, I rode down the river on 
the road to Mardin, hoping to meet Mr. Eighter 
three or four hours from the city. It was a clear, 
lovely day, like pleasant October days in N. E., 
and the road was excellent. We had proceeded 
about three and one half hours, when we met 
Mr. Eighter's servant, carterj ees, and baggage. 
We asked where Mr. E. was. They said he had 



300 MEETS MB. E. 

gone on before with, the cavass or zabtier, and 
were surprised that we had not met him. We 
concluded he had taken another road, and turn- 
ing, followed on after him. At the Tillage of 
'Cahby-kir' we overtook him. He had stopped 
to rest a few moments, and was standing before a 
house with, a crowd of natives around him. As 
I rode up I was struck with his unusual slowness 
in greeting me. He did not seem particularly 
weak, but spoke and moved like a man benumbed 
with cold. He said he had come very easily, and 
was not much, fatigued. He was sipping a little 
brandy and water, which he said he found much to 
refresh him. I asked him if he would not go into 
a house and lie down awhile before proceeding. 
He thought it unnecessary and not desirable, par- 
ticularly as it might make us late in reaching the 
city. Soon we mounted and rode quietly on. 
He was on an Arab horse, which, he bought in 
Mosul, and which, he said carried him with very 
little motion and jar. He was very glad to be 
informed that several letters for him had arrived 
since be went to Mosul, and said he had antici- 
pated having a feast of letters when he reached 
Diarbekir. When we were about a mile and a 
half from the city we were met by Mr. Walker 
and Mr. Jones, whom he was much pleased to 
see, and thanked for coming to meet him. 

" It was nearly four o'clock when we reached 



AT DIARBEKIE. 801 

my house. "We took him immediately up into 
our parlor, and he sat for awhile by the stove in 
the rocking chair, before having his overcoats, 
riding boots, and hat taken off, fearing he might 
take cold if his outer clothing was removed too 
suddenly. He then walked about the room a 
minute or two, and, at my request, laid down 
upon a lounge. Soon I brought the letters to 
him, and he looked them all over, and said he 
knew from whom each one came, by the hand- 
writing and postmarks. He then laid them aside 
saying he was then too much fatigued to read 
them. Mrs. N. then brought him a cup of tea 
and soda crackers, and he sat up by the table. I 
had brought to him also a wash-bowl, etc., but he 
seemed not to have resolution sufficient either to 
wash, or take the tea even ; and requested me to 
allow them to stand by him a little while. After 
sitting awhile he seemed to revive, washed, drank 
his tea, and proposed to go down to dine with us, 
but did not go, as I thought it would be too 
much for him in his exhausted state. Soon I 
asked him to the bed-room adjoining the parlor, 
and he laid down saying he felt very grateful for 
such a comfortable bed and pleasant room. I was 
with him all the evening, and though he did not 
sleep, he seemed to be resting. He had consider- 
able fever, as he said he had had for three or 
four nights previous. At 11 o'clock he thought 

26 



302 GROWS WORSE, 

he needed nothing more and should sleep : and a3 
Mr. Jones was to sleep in the same room, and his 
servant in an adjoining one, he said it was entirely 
unnecessary for me to sit up longer, and he 
begged I would retire. I did so. 

"Early in the morning {Thursday) I went to 
his room and he seemed much better, had slept 
considerable, and his fever had abated. He con- 
tinued thus till 10 o 7 clock, when he began to have 
pain, first in his side, then in his back, and then 
all over. He said, c Doctor, something is wrong — 
something has given way within.' Soon he was 
relieved of the pain, and seemed quite easy. I was 
with him all the forenoon, endeavoring to ascer- 
tain as definitely as possible, the nature and state 
of his disease. I at first suspected it might be dis- 
ease of the liver ; and upon examination I found 
there was a slight enlargement, just below the ribs 
on the right side. Not long before now, as I was 
sitting by him, he said, ' Doctor, I think I ought 
to tell you I am deranged; but you need not 
mention it to others.' I thought that perhaps 
want of sleep and nervous exhaustion had brought 
his mind into such a state, and that it would soon 
pass away. A little before noon I had occasion 
to leave the room for a few minutes, and upon 
returning I found Mr. Jones sprinkling water into 
his face. He said that Mr. E. was taken with 
shivering and trembling, and seemed to faint. 



ENGAGED IIST PRAYER. 303 

As I came up to the bed, I saw lie was still trem- 
bling, and his lips were moving as if in prayer. 
Just then lie seemed to faint, saying, 'lam going, 
I am going.' I applied some spirits of camphor 
to his nose, and he. revived, saying, 'Lord, I will 
repent.' The servant told me that while I was 
out before noon, Mr. E. was much engaged in 
earnest prayer. For six or eight hours from this 
time he answered none of our questions, although 
he turned his eyes sometimes towards the person 
who addressed him. All this time I was with 
him, and felt exceedingly anxious for him. I 
looked upon the shivering I had seen as an indica- 
tion that the inflammation of the liver had resulted 
in suppuration, and an abscess was being formed ; 
and then he could not probably live many days. 
I thought that he probably, too, had a presenti- 
ment that his time was short, and that he was en- 
deavoring by meditation and prayer to secure a 
preparation for the great change that awaited him, 
and during these hours, many, many were the 
prayers I offered that our heavenly Father would 
be near to comfort and sustain him as he ap- 
proached the valley of the shadow of death. In 
the evening he had several naps, and each one in 
succession longer than the one preceding. At 
nearly ten o'clock he awoke from a quiet sleep of 
more than half-an-hour, and seemed to be himself 
again. He said he had been in a trance. He had 



304 LETTERS. 

known all that we had said to him but was unable 
to answer our questions. We then moved him 
into the parlor, where we had prepared a bed for 
him. He sat up nearly a half hour, and conversed 
quite freely, and then laid down. He seemed 
very comfortable, and said, c All is peace and joy.' 
At a late hour I left him, with one of his faithful 
servants to watch with him, and Mr. Jones sleep- 
ing in the same room. He had not as much fever 
as the previous night, and slept considerable. 
Next morning {Friday) at five o'clock I went in 
to see him, and he said, l Doctor, I have had some 
refreshing sleep, and am much better, will you 
please to bring me those letters from my dear 
friends, I think I am able to read them now.' I 
brought them, and he opened and read them all, 
excepting one, which he said he knew contained 
nothing but a draft on Baring Brothers, I think. 
In the letters from his two brothers he seemed 
much interested ; and he told me they contained 
good news from his far-off home — which to him 
was like cold water to a thirsty man. After 
breakfast, we had family prayers in the parlor, 
and he seemed to enjoy the season very much. 
A portion of Scripture having been read, he united 
with us in singing the 402d hymn of the L Temple 
Melodies,' commencing : 

" l How firm a foundation, ye saints of the Lord, 
Is laid for your faith in his excellent word.' 



BETTER. 305 

As lie sang the last verse I could but feel tliat 
no one could sing it with the heartfelt confidence 
he evinced, unless he had in exercise a strong and 
living faith in Christ. That day Mr. R. appeared 
so decidedly better, that we began to hope that 
my previous conclusion in regard to his disease 
was incorrect, and that he would recover. I think 
also that he had hope that he would soon be well. 
Mr. Jones was very anxious to prosecute the jour- 
ney as soon as possible ; and he asked Mr. R. if he 
should contract with a muleteer to be ready to 
start with them on the following Monday for Ain- 
tab. He replied, i Yes, I think it would be well 
to do so.' That night he had more fever than 
during the day, but not as much as the first nights ; 
and during the greater part was in a gentle per- 
spiration ; yet he was rather restless and did not 
sleep, as I hoped he would. Saturday morning, 
instead of finding him better than the previous 
' day, he did not appear quite as well, and our 
hopes were somewhat lessened. In answer to Mr. 
Jones' inquiry, he said that the contract had bet- 
ter be made for Tuesday instead of Monday. His 
fever began to appear more like a hectic than a 
remittent fever. Still he seemed very cheerful and 
hopeful. That evening, thinking that it was very 
important that he should sleep, I gave him a 
powder of morphine. 

" Sabbath morning, when I asked him how he 
26* 



306 WORSHIP. 

was, lie replied, l much better, Doctor, I slept a 
part of the night, and oh ! it was such a refresh- 
ing sleep ! I am all right now, Doctor — all right.' 
Not long after this, as he was apparently waking 
from a nap, I heard him utter these words, 'Who 
doeth all things well.' He slept considerable 
during the A.M. In the p.m. he said he thought 
a warm bath would do him good. I was then 
just going to meeting and told him that, on my 
return, I would see about his having a bath. 
When I returned from our place of worship I 
found he had ordered the servants to bring hot 
water, etc., and had taken his bath. He told me 
it was the most delightful bath he had ever taken, 
c Such pleasurable physical sensations.' Mr. and 
Mrs. Walker called in after meeting, and he 
seemed very happy to see them. He said that 
that had been the happiest Sabbath of his life — 
1 So quiet, so peaceful, so joyous, so glorious.' 
Soon after he heard us inviting Mr. Jones to 
preach that evening to the members of this sta- 
tion, and he said, ( yes, friend Jones, do give 
them a sermon ! ' 

"Mr. Jones, Mr. and Mrs. Walker, Mr. and 
Mrs. Knapp, Mrs. Nutting and myself, met in our 
dining room at 7 o'clock ; and after the usual in- 
troductory exercise conducted by Mr. Jones, he 
preached a very excellent sermon from the seventh 
verse of the 57th Psalm. After that we sang 



DELIRIUM. 307 

several hymns, accompanied by the melodeon. 
In the meantime Mr. E. was attended by the two 
servants. At nine o'clock I went up to his room 
and found him apparently very happy and in- 
clined to talk much. I told him we had enjoyed 
our meeting exceedingly, and felt sorry he was 
unable to be with us. I asked him how he had 
been. l In a delightful state, Doctor ; oh, such 
glorious views as I have had !' Soon he began to 
sing— 

" l Awake my soul, stretch every nerve/ etc. 

and parts of several other similar hymns. I no- 
ticed that he appeared very much excited, and 
threw his arms about in a restless, nervous way, 
and I was not long in coming to the conclusion 
that he was delirious. We tried to keep him 
calm and quiet, but he grew worse for several 
hours. Mr. J. and Mrs. N". were up till after 
midnight, and (with two servants) I was standing 
by him all night. Frequently, after a few mo- 
ments of sleep, he would break out in singing, or 
would speak as if preaching, or making an ad- 
dress. Once or twice he said, ' Oh, I see the glory 
of the Divine Nature, nearer and nearer it comes 
— how beautiful — how glorious P The latter part 
of the night he began to be more quiet, and in 
the morning, Monday, he slept considerable ; and 



308 SINKING. 

during the day lie seemed nearly free from deli- 
rium, and always answered our questions intelli- 
gently. His pulse was quicker and weaker than the 
preceding day, owing, I thought, in part, at least, 
to the excitement of the night before. Towards 
evening, Mr. Jones having gone over*to Mr. 
Walker's, Mr. E. requested me to send for him, 
and said he had something to tell him. i I want 
to tell him of the glory of God.' In the evening 
Mr. Walker came, and kindly offered to sit up 
with Mr. E. that night ; and give me an opportu- 
nity to rest. Having given direction in regard 
to the medicine to be given, before 10 I retired. 
Just before Mr. E. requested Mr. W. to wind up 
his watch. During the night he was somewhat 
delirious, but not nearly as much so as the preced- 
ing night. He was in a gentle perspiration 
most of the time, and in the morning, at 5 o'clock, 
when I came into the room, he seemed very quiet, 
but extremely sensitive to cold, and frequently 
repeated the words — ' keep me warm — keep me 
warm.' I found his pulse much weaker than it 
was the preceding day. He said he had no pain, 
and was very easy and quiet. After breakfast, 
as I was by him, I inquired w T hether any of the 
letters he had just received were from his father 
or mother ; and he said there was no letter from 
them, but two were from his brothers, and when 
he became stronger he would write to them. I 



DEATH. 309 

told him I would not tire him with questions, for 
he needed rest. 'Yes,' he replied, ' after I have 
rested awhile, I shall be better.' Sometimes he 
would say — 'God is good;' and several times he 
prayed — 'Lord, deal gently with thy servant.' 
He continued quiet, and sleeping much of the 
time till half past-ten. I was with him all the 
time, and knew he was gradually growing weaker, 
but did not think he would leave us so soon as 
he did. I found at that time his pulse no longer 
perceptible, and his breathing was short though 
easy. I went and told Mr. Jones that I feared 
he would not be long with us, and when I re- 
turned to the bedside, I found his eyes open and 
fixed. I spoke to him, but he made no reply, 
though he continued to breathe till about eleven, 
when his spirit quietly left the frail body, and 
soared away to the blessed mansion where sick- 
ness, suffering, and sorrow are no more. So his 
prayer was answered. The Lord did deal gently 
with him, and his end was perfect peace. I have 
not time now, my dear friends, to write more. I 
deeply sympathize with you in your loss. I, as 
well as the others of our station, became very 
much interested in Mr. Bighter; we loved him 
as our brother. We still love to think of him as 
our brother — a brother not lost, but before us 
gone to a happy land, where after a few years, 
at longest, we hope again to meet, and never part." 



LETTER FROM REV. GEORGE C. KNAPP. 

" Diarbekir, Turkey, Wednesday, Dec. 11, 1856. 

" Dear Afflicted Friends : You will learn 
from the particulars of accompanying letters from 
other members of this mission station of the Board 
such intelligence as will cause your heart to bleed ! 
Dear friends, it is a sad as well as an unexpected 
task that we are called upon, by the inscrutable 
ways of Providence, to perform, while we think 
what must be the anguish of spirit we shall occa- 
sion to each one who reads ! May the Lord grant 
you his grace to comfort and strengthen your 
hearts under the present bereavement. 

" Yes, your beloved son and brother, Chester 
N. Righter is no more ! This day it has been 
our mournful duty to commit his remains to the 
grave ! 

" Little did we think eight weeks ago when he 
spent several days with us, the very picture of 
health, exhibiting so freely his characteristic cheer- 
fulness and resolution, that we should ever be 
called to perform so sad a duty ! Here ended his 
earthly pilgrimage in a twofold sense. How true 
that the Lord's ways are not our ways, and it is 
not in man to direct his steps. 

" In anticipation of your wishes to learn the 
particulars respecting the burial services of our 



FUNERAL. 311 

departed brother, I will endeavor to give you 
them as faithfully as my time will admit. 

" Our brother died about noon of yesterday ; 
and we chose to depart from the established cus- 
tom of this people of burying the dead on the 
same day of their decease, that we might make 
the desired arrangements without confusion. 

" Owing to this mission station being in its in- 
fancy no Protestant burial-place has been secured ; 
but our good deacon, Shemmas Sulleba, kindly 
offered us a space owned by him in the Syrian 
burying-ground. To feel secure from my fears 
of dissatisfaction the bishops and patriarch of that 
church were consulted, and they had no objection 
to his being buried there, if Shemmas was willing. 

" Two of the best carpenters in the city were 
furnished by the English Consul, by whom they 
were employed, who made the coffin of unusually 
fine boards from Erzroum, which, fortunately, 
Brother Walker had purchased a year ago. It 
was made of the same shape common in Ame- 
rica ; and, according to the English custom, co- 
vered with fine black cloth. The inside was trim- 
med with white cambric, very tastefully plaited by 
our ladies. In this the body was deposited, and 
becomingly attired, according to the American 
custom. 

" And now imagine yourselves seated with us 
in Dr. Nutting's spacious sitting-room. It is one 



312 EXERCISES. 

o'clock P.M. In the east end of the room, seated 
on a sofa, is H.B.M.'s Consul, Mr. Holmes, who, 
with his lady, had come to mingle his sympathies 
with ours ; Major Gardin, an English officer, but 
now a tourist and the Consul's guest ; Mr. Mat- 
trass, the Consul's Secretary, and Dr. Nutting; 
while at their right is Kev. A. "Walker ; Kev. Mr. 
Jones, from England, and Secretary of the Turk- 
ish Missions' Aid Society, and myself; and oppo- 
site us three are the ladies, Mrs. Holmes, Walker, 
Nutting, and Knapp. 

" This number probably constitute all the 
Franks speaking English in this city. Nearly in 
the centre of the room stands the table upon 
which are the sacred remains ; and the other half 
of the room is crowded with the Protestant breth- 
ren and others. In the spacious court before us 
are several hundred persons, as also many are on 
the roofs of the house, all anxious to witness the 
funeral of a foreigner. 

" The religious exercises were as follow : 

" 1. Singing the first twelve verses of the 90th 
Ps. to a chant. 

"2. Prayer by the writer. 

" 3. An excellent and appropriate address by 
Rev. Henry Jones, based on Ps. xc. 12. 

" 4. Address by Rev. Mr. Walker in Turkish. 

" 5. Prayer by Rev. Mr. Walker in Turkish. 

" 6. Singing, ' I would not live alway.' 



BURIAL. 313 

" The above exercises occupied a little over an 
hour. The remains were then borne on a hearse 
by sixteen of the most prominent men of the 
Protestant community. These were preceded by 
two cavasses furnished by the Pasha as a mark 
of respect ; after the bearers were the Consul's 
two cavasses. Then followed on horseback Eev. 
Mr. Jones, the Consul, Maj. Gardin, Mr. Mattrass, 
Eev. W., myself, Dr. S., and Harji Hargoss, the 
Consul's Interpreter, and member of our church. 
Then followed a large concourse of people, as we 
proceeded through the main street leading to the 
western gate. The ladies had taken another street 
more retired and unobtrusive. 

" Twenty minutes brought us to the gate, and 
passing through we turned to the left, passing 
along some ten or twelve rods under the high 
walls, after which, a sharp bend to the right, 
winding our way mostly among the prostrate 
tomb-stones about twenty rods, brought us to the 
newly-prepared grave. 

" The weather was mild and serene, and there 
being no snow to be seen, the heavens being clear, 
it resembled a genial day in spring. 

" The exercises at the grave were : 

" 1st. Singing, 4 There is an hour of peaceful 
rest.' — Tune, Woodland.* 

* These three tunes we found in the " Temple Melodies.' 

27 



314 GRAVE. 

" 2d. Prayer by Kev. Mr. W. 

" 3d. Prayer in Turkish by one of our church, 
members. 

" 4th. Benediction by Eev. Mr. W. in Turkish. 

" The grave of ample dimensions, between seven 
and eight feet deep, in the hard, red-clay soil, then 
received its sacred trust. Under and about the 
coffin, upon which was placed a firm construction 
of boards, was deposited a large quantity of char- 
coal, to render more feasible disinterment should 
it ever be desired. 

" There were several hundred spectators, and 
throughout the whole day there was perfect 
order. 

" Our task was done! But oh! what an im- 
pressive lesson to mortal man ! Here is one, who 
a few days since had as good a prospect of a long 
life as any of us, possessing apparently a firm, 
robust constitution, but now numbered with the 
dead ! Let this teach the frailty of man. Let 
this people, as they reflect upon the noble mis- 
sion of our faithful departed brother, in furnish- 
ing them the lamp of eternal life, consider how 
much efforts for their salvation do cost, and like- 
wise the additional guilt of refusing that Gospel 
thus costing so much sacrifice of life. May we, 
who are permitted to remain here awhile longer, 
improve by this sad event, seeking to have our 
hearts sanctified, becoming more faithful in our 



dr. schaufflee's lettee. 315 

Master's service, and better prepared when he 
shall summon us hence. 

" Your affectionate 

Brother in Christ, 

"Geo. 0. Knapp." 



LETTEE FROM REV. DR. SCHAUFFLER. 

"Bebek, Constantinople, January 15, '185?. 
"Mr. Eighter — Very Dear Sir: The relation 
which I sustained to your beloved son, now no 
more among the l pilgrims and strangers ' of this 
world, leads me to send you an expression of my 
heartfelt sympathy with you in your heavy be- 
reavement. Your son was our next door neigh- 
bor, constantly in our family circle, of which he 
was almost a regular member. In days of sick- 
ness he knew he could freely call upon us, as for 
parental sympathy and care; and in his many 
and useful labors, he consulted with me as an 
older laborer in this field. "When he left us, he 
committed to me the Eecords, etc., of the Evan- 
gelical Alliance, of which he was the first Secre- 
tary, and it was my solemn duty to convoke the first 
committee meeting after his decease — to commu- 
nicate to them the intelligence of our sad bereave- 
ment, and to propose the resolutions relative to 
his death, and the choice of another secretary. 



316 LETTERS. 

Your dear son was beloved by all who knew 
him, and his usefulness, his zeal for the glory of 
God and the good of souls, was manifest to all. 
Even the Greek family with whom he lived (a 
plain poor family), appreciated his worth, loved 
him as a member of their household, and served 
him, especially in days of illness, with a tender- 
ness which showed that their hearts, not their 
pecuniary interest, dictated their conduct. I was 
the more delighted to see this, as it is so rare a 
thing to get the true, heartfelt affections of this 
nation. When the news of his death came, our 
servant girls, returning from their humble habita- 
tion, remarked ' They are crying themselves sick 
over there, because Mr. E. is no more.' And so 
I found them afterwards, sorrowing as for a bro- 
ther. Perhaps you may improve, some time, an 
opportunity to send them some trifle of an object as 
a recognition of their kindness to your dear son. 
A small thing would be of great value to them, 
given on Mr. K.'s account, and lead them to feel 
that their humble and unostentatious affection for 
their friend was appreciated, and encourage them 
in cultivating the better sensibilities of human 
nature. You will excuse this suggestion, which 
is made under the impression that such small 
gifts are a blessing to him that gives, and to him 
that receives, far, far beyond its pecuniary value, 
which in such cases quite vanishes out of sight. 



LETTERS. 317 

""We have been in the room of your son to see 
what he left behind. We find that he lived as 
4 a pilgrim and stranger on the earth.' There 
are, however, objects enough that will interest 
his parents and other friends, and they shall be 
sent to you faithfully — viz. his remaining clothes, 
and the articles he made daily or frequent use of, 
• and some curiosities he had gathered. I found 
three books written full with pencil, like notes 
by the way, or diaries. I have not examined 
them, nor shall I do so, as they may contain 
subjects of a private character. You will receive 
them unread by any one, if Providence brings the 
box to you in safety. 

" And now, my dear sir, feeling somewhat 
acquainted with you. and Mrs. E., from having 
seen several times your daguerreotypes (now 
with several others in my keeping), I cannot but 
express to you that this affliction may be so blest 
and sanctified to you and your dear family, as that 
you shall, one and all, devote yourselves to the 
same Saviour w T hom your departed son loved and 
served, and whom he now beholds and will be- 
hold forever. I am sure, no member of your 
dear family will take it ill, if an old missionary 
friend of their sainted son and brother beseeches 
them to prepare by faith in Christ, for a happy 
meeting with the dear one they will never again 
see on earth, in a better world, where, { those that 
27* 



318 LETTERS. 

meet shall part no more, and those long parted 
meet again.' Be ye likewise ready, for in an hour 
when ye think not, the Son of Man will come. 
How happy, if on that day, when the Lord Jesus 
shall make up his jewels, you will be found then, 
none wanting, an unbroken, undiminished family, 
never to weep again. The Lord that gave him 
grace, grant it to you all, and thus magnify in you 
all the riches of his grace. 

"With kind, sympathizing remembrance to 
Mrs. E. and every member of your family, 
"I remain, yours truly, 

" W. Gr. SCHAUFFLER." 



CHAPTER XXII. 

TEIBUTES TO HIS MEMORY. 

Some of the tributes which have been paid to 
the memory of Mr. Eighter will form an appro- 
priate close to this volume. Those who have 
read the record of his life, as it has been sketched, 
will need no farther testimony to the strength of 
affection with which he was regarded by those 
who were intimately acquainted and associated 
with him, and to the loss which was sustained 
by the cause to which he had devoted himself. 
But it is proper that some of this testimony 
should be preserved. 

The following letter was addressed to the Secre- 
tary of the American Bible Society, by Rev. Dr. 
Dwight, one of the Missionaries of the American 
Board in Turkey : — 

" Constantinople, January 10, 185*7. 

" My Dear Sir : — By the last post letters were 

forwarded from this place to New York, and I 

think one at least to yourself, communicating the 

deeply afflictive intelligence of the early and sud- 



S20 LETTERS. 

den departure of our dearly beloved brother and 
fellow-laborer, and your Agent in Turkey, the 
Kev. Chester 1ST. Eighter. I find it impossible to 
make it appear a reality to my mind, he was so 
recently among us ; was so young, so ardent, and 
energetic in his work, and apparently so neces- 
sary to all the good enterprises going forward in 
this land. But it is, alas ! too true. We shall 
see his face and hear his voice no more, nor will 
he any longer aid us in bearing the burdens of 
the ' day (not c night ') of toil 7 in this land. He 
has been called to a higher service, and we would 
not that he should return to us, if that were possi- 
ble. But we are permitted to mourn over our own 
bereavement, and over the loss that has been sus- 
tained by the good cause here, in. consequence of 
his removal. And we are called upon to humble 
ourselves before the mighty hand of God, and 
confess our sins, that call for such rebukes and 
chastisements. We will also pray that He will 
soon send out other laborers to take the place of 
our dear brother and of others who have fallen 
in these whitened fields. 

" I hope that your Committee will be early 
directed by Providence to another man, to ap- 
point to fill the place thus vacated. Of its 
importance I need not speak, except to bear testi- 
mony, as one upon the ground, that there is 
plenty of work for such an agent to do. 






LETTERS. 321 

" But to return to Mr. Righter : I think you 
will fell that your loss is a great one. This is 
the universal feeling here in regard to ourselves 
and this land. We had all become exceedingly 
attached to him. He was so kind in all his ways ; 
so gentle in his spirit ; so gentlemanly in his 
manners ; so active, energetic, and persevering in 
every good word and work, and especially in his 
great work on which his whole heart was set, of 
disseminating as widely as possible, among all 
classes, the pure Word of God ; that everybody 
admired and loved him. 

a I am personally unacquainted with his parents 
and friends, but I beg through you to offer 
them my sincere condolence ; and if it will be 
any comfort to them to read these few lines 
which I have penned in the sincerity of my 
heart, I beg that you will give them the oppor- 
tunity. 

" I take the liberty of enclosing for you and 
also for them, if you think it best, or for any 
other use you may think it proper to make of 
them, two letters received by me in reference to 
our dear young friend's death. 

- ■ It became my duty to announce the event to 
the Hon. Carroll Spence, our Minister at the 
Porte, and also to Rev. Horace M. Blakiston, the 
very worthy chaplain of the British Embassy 
here, and these are their replies. They will tell 



322 RESOLUTIONS. 

you in what esteem your late agent was held in 
this country. 

" I remain, my dear Sir, 

11 Most truly and sincerely yours, 
" H. G. 0. Dwight. 

" To the Secretary of the American Bible Society." 

At the meeting of the Board of Managers of 
the American Bible Society, held March 5th, 
1857, soon after the intelligence of his death was 
received, after appropriate remarks by *the Bev. 
Dr. De "Witt, the following minute and resolution 
were unanimously adapted : 

" Intelligence having been received, since the last 
meeting, of the decease of the Bev. Chester N. 
Bighter, the Society's Agent for Turkey and 
adjacent countries, the Managers would here 
record their deep sense of sorrow in the loss 
of this valued helper in our great Bible work. 
Their hopes of his usefulness, which were strong 
in the beginning of his labors, have been more 
than realized in his subsequent history. His 
communications from the Turkish capital, from 
Greece, from the Crimea, from Egypt, Bales- 
tine, Asia Minor, and lastly from Mesopotamia, 
all exhibit a union of good judgment, prudence, 
and * industry, united with a modest, catholic 
piety, which have greatly endeared him to the 



RESOLUTIONS. 323 

Board, and rendered his loss a trial. That the 
Board have not overvalued their deceased friend 
is made apparent by the sympathy manifested in 
his death at the various mission stations which 
he visited, and by other classes of men around 
him, both in public and private life. 
" While the Managers, therefore, record their sor- 
row at the death of their worthy Agent, they 
would at the same time be grateful for the good 
which he was permitted to accomplish ; also for 
the many kind attentions which he received in 
his last illness, and for the manifold expressions 
of regard for his memory in that ancient land 
where his labors and his life ended. 
"Resolved, That a copy of the above record be 
transmitted to the relatives of the deceased, and 
to those missionary and other friends at the East 
who have shown so deep a sympathy in the loss 
sustained. 



" Copy of Eesolutions passed at a meeting 
of the Committee of the Constantinople 
Branch of the Evangelical Alliance, 
held in Pera, January 13th, 1857. 

"Resolved, That the news of the sudden death 
of the Eev. C. N. Eighter has filled us with sor- 



324 RESOLUTIONS. 

row and dismay, and that we deeply deplore tlie 
loss of so useful a laborer in the Bible cause, and 
so active a member of this Committee. 

" That while we bow with humble submission 
to the Divine will, we would express to the 
afflicted parents and friends of the deceased our 
sincere sympathy, commending them to the con- 
solations of Divine Grace, and praying that they 
may all meet in Glory an unbroken family. 

" That these resolutions be forwarded to the 
parents and friends of our lamented fellow-la- 
borer in America." 

The above resolutions were moved by the 
Eev. Dr. Schauffler, of the American mission, 
and after an expression on the part of the various 
members of the Committee present, of their high 
esteem for Mr. Eighter, they were unanimously 
adopted. 

Attest, 

Edwin E. Bliss, 

Secretary. 
Constantinople. Jan. 23, 1857. 



FHOM HON. CAEEOLL SPENCE, UNITED STATES 
MINISTEE FOE TUEKEY. 

11 Constantinople, Jan. 7, 185?. 
" My Deae Sie : I have just received your 
note informing me of the unexpected decease of 



LETTERS. 825 

Mr. Righter. The very^kind personal relations 
which have existed between Mr. Righter and my- 
self, since his stay in this empire, causes me to 
lament sincerely his untimely death. My inter- 
course with him for the last two years enabled 
me to form a correct opinion of his worth as a 
man, and his piety as a Christian ; and while his 
bland and amiable manners secured for him my 
friendship, his zeal and energy in the prosecution, 
of the pious task in which he was engaged elicited 
for him my sincere respect. Pious, without be- 
ing austere — a sincere believer in the doctrines 
of the religion professed by him, without being 
intolerant — he gained the friendship and esteem 
of many, and avoided the enmity of all. His 
good common sense, his winning manners, his re- 
ligious zeal, tempered by Christian charity to- 
wards all, his energy and perseverance of charac- 
ter, peculiarly fitted him to discharge the duties 
of the calling to which it was his intention to 
have devoted his life. 

"Although his stay here has been short, his 
efforts in behalf of Christianity have been untir- 
ing, and the good he has done here, by the distri- 
bution of the "Word of God, will remain behind 
him as a monument of his pious exertions, and 
will, as it developes itself in coming years, keep 
alive his memory in the recollection of those who 
were witnesses of his Christian labors. 
28 



326 LETTERS. 

" If it be a consolation to his relatives to learn 
that, in fighting the great battle of Christianity, 
he died upon the field of his struggle in its behalf, 
still longing to continue the conflict, that consola- 
tion is theirs ; and may the knowledge of that 
fact, if it does not reconcile them to his loss, at 
least soothe them with the hope, that their loss in 
this world will be his gain in heaven. 

" I beg you, should you write to his relatives, 
to unite my condolence with your own upon this 
melancholy occasion, and to express to them the 
deep regret I feel at the death of one for whom I 
entertained a sincere friendship. 

" I am, my dear sir, truly yours, 

"Carroll Spence. 

" Rev. H. Gr. 0. Dwight, Constantinople." 

Eev. Henry Jones, his travelling companion, 
writes : 

" There was everything in his life and death 
calculated to afford comfort. He was a faithful 
and zealous servant of God, sincerely and, ear- 
nestly desirous of promoting His glory and the 
salvation of souls by disseminating that gospel 
which is the power of Cod. As an agent of the 
American Bible Society, no one could labor more 
devotedly or with more untiring zeal. Wherever 
we journeyed, in every village, or city, or by the 



LETTEES. 327 

way, however wearied I might be, he lost no op- 
portunity of promoting the most blessed object, 
so dear to his heart. Scarcely had we arrived at 
any mission station, when his inquiries would be 
for the Bible store, if there was one, and what 
arrangements could be made for the distribution 
of the Word of God, and his anxieties would 
never cease until he had accomplished his object. 
Nor did he confine his labors to those who were 
likely to appreciate them. He would spare no 
pains to obtain an entrance for the Bible when 
all others had failed to procure one. Well do I 
remember his dragging me over many weary miles 
to give the Bible to the Yezidees, or Devil- wor- 
shippers, and when he had succeeded, by dint of 
most judicious management and prayerful anxiety 
in obtaining a promise from the Yezidee chief 
and his priest, to read the Word of God, his joy 
was unbounded, and his prayers most fervent that 
God would bless it to the conversion and salva- 
tion of that benighted people. Such was his life ; 
and his death, though it occiirred in a far-off land 
and far away from the home of his fondest earthly 
affections, was attended with many circumstances 
which cannot fail to afford satisfaction and com- 
fort to the friends who loved him so dearly." 

The correspondent of the London Christian 
Times makes the following record of the event in 
a letter to that paper : 



328 LETTEES. 

" Constantinople, Jan. 8, 1857. 
" News lias just readied this city of the sudden 
death of the Kev. 0. N. Eighter, at Diarbekir, on 
the 16th ult. He was the Agent of the American 
Bible Society in Turkey, and the Corresponding 
Secretary of the Constantinople Branch of the 
Evangelical Alliance. He left this place in Sep- 
tember last, in company with the Eev. Henry 
Jones, Secretary of the Turkish Missions' Aid 
Society, for a tour in Asia Minor and Armenia, 
for the purpose of visiting all the missionary sta- 
tions of the American Board. They proceeded 
as far as Mosul, and came, on their return, to 
Diarbekir, where Mr. Eighter sickened of fever, 
and died within a very few days. He was, in 
many respects, a rare man, and his loss will be 
most deeply felt in this country and in America. 
He was, emphatically, 4 a burning and a shining 
light,' laboring with untiring zeal, for the spread 
of God's Word among all classes of the popula- 
tion of Turkey, and at the same time endeavor- 
ing, by all means, to promote throughout this 
land the great objects of the Evangelical Alli- 
ance. And I may mention, for the interest it 
will excite in Britain, that during the war Mr. 
Eighter was unwearied in his endeavors to fur- 
nish the soldiers of the allied armies, and also the 
Eussian prisoners, with the Bible in their own 
vernacular tongue ; and with this end in view, he 



RECOLLECTIONS. 329 

even went to the Crimea, during that first winter 
of horrors, and was the means of administering 
comfort to many a poor, sick, and dying soldier, 
thus literally inheriting the ' blessing of him who 
was ready to perish.' " 

The following was furnished to the New York 
Observer by Wm. C. Prime, Esq., Mr. Eighter's 
travelling companion in Syria : — 

" RECOLLECTIONS 'OF RIGHTER. 

" My Dear Brother : — I feel" deeply the loss 
of our friend Eighter, and I cannot avoid giving 
you some of my personal recollections of him, as 
the companion of my last year's wanderings. He 
surprised me one evening at Thebes, by entering 
the cabin of my Nile boat, when I did not dream 
of an American being within a hundred or many 
hundred miles. My beard and bronzed face were 
as strange to him as his to me. We did not 
recognise each other. 

" ' I saw an American flag, and came over the 
river, hoping to meet an American,' said he. 

" ' You are right. I am from New York. My 
name is Prime.' 

" ' Is it possible? and mine is Eighter.' 

" I need not tell you my delight at this meet- 
ing. He passed the evening with me, and we 
talked over his adventures with you two years 
28* 



330 RECOLLECTIONS. 

before, as we strolled by moonlight through the 
vast corridor of the temple of Luxor, under the 
side of which my boat lay. 

" I met him again at Cairo, and he went with 
me to Jerusalem. It was not till after our arrival 
in the Holy City that he made up his mind to 
accept our invitation to join us for a few months 
of tent life on the hills of the Holy Land. He 
did at length join us, and was one of our little 
family of four who went wandering in the foot- 
steps of the Lord and the Apostles last spring, 
and whom, as the companion of many thrilling 
scenes, I shall never forget until I forget Jerusa- 
lem. 

" We bathed together in the Jordan, and in the 
Dead Sea ; we studied together the page on 
which Abraham read the number of his children, 
as brilliant nowhere as it is above the oaks of 
Mamre ; we were together cast away by a gale of 
wind on the Sea of Galilee ; snowed under three 
days on the side of Mount Hermon ; went to 
Damascus, to Baalbec, Beyrout, Tarsous, Ehodes, 
Smyrna, and Constantinople together : and during 
all this time of constant hourly intercourse by 
day and night, there was no one word of jarring, 
no difference of plan, nor anything that I can 
now recal of him, other than the most entire 
amiability, warm-heartedness (if I may use the 
word), and earnestness of desire to make all of 



RECOLLECTIONS. 331 

us happy. You will not think it strange that 

M and myself formed a warm attachment to 

him, and feel this affliction, as you said last 
week, like the loss of a brother. 

" I remember with the utmost pleasure his 
constant cheerfulness. Nothing overcame it. 
First up in the morning, he would always make 
the air around the tents ring with a pleasant 
morning song, and when, as not unfrequently, 
our position was perilous or disheartening, he 
was never discouraged. 

" His frank, hearty piety was always before us. 
He never yielded in a matter of duty one hair's- 
breadth. I remember especially the day of our 
approach to Damascus. It was Saturday. We 
had been under snow three daj^s on Hermon, but 
determined this morning to reach the plain and 
the city if possible. As the sun was setting, my 
chief muleteer informed me that the mules could 
not go on. It was still eight miles to Damascus, of 
which the minarets and domes were shining in 
the red sunlight above its groves and gardens. I 
ordered a halt around the baggage, and soon 
found that it was probably impossible to reach 
the city. Eighter alone differed from me, but 
solely on his own account. He had told me in 
starting with us, that he could not travel on Sun- 
day, and such was my own intention also. I 
now regarded it as my duty to remain with the 



332 RECOLLECTIONS. 

baggage, and come on to the city early on Sun- 
day. There was none such on his part, and he 
hired a guide and a fresh horse, paying a guinea 
for the two, and set off alone for the city. I re- 
member right well his cheerful face as he rode off 
that evening across the magnificent plain, waving 
his hand back to us as long as we could see him, 
and riding his horse as if he were born on horse- 
back. He was the best horseman, for an Ameri- 
can, that I have ever seen, riding always freely 
and gracefully. 

"You have said nothing of your adventure at 
Nablous, in which he saved you from Bedouin 
spears. There was nothing in all my journey 
that pleased me more in Eighter than his modesty 
at that spot. The Bedouins were again in com- 
motion when we were there, and the Governor 
of Jerusalem, with two hundred men, was a close 
prisoner in the walls of Nablous, not daring to 
venture out to go to Jerusalem, on account of the 
state of the Arabs. We were unmolested here, 
though we had to show our pistols the next day 
near Samaria. But his account of your adven- 
ture, on the ground precisely where it occurred, 
modest as it was, gave me a more thrilling idea 
of your danger, and of his noble interposition, 
than any previous descriptions had given. It 
was characteristic of him. He was impetuous in 
his feelings and actions, frank, faithful and noble. 



EECOLLECTIONS. 883 

" This journey to Mosul he had in mind when 
we were at Damascus. M. and myself intended 
to go on from Damascus, across the country, but 
the state of the interior forbade a lady to attempt 
this, and we reluctantly abandoned it. Still we 
talked with him of accompanying him this winter, 
a plan that was forbidden by our sad call to re- 
turn to America. When we read his letter last 
week in the Observer, describing his voyage 
down the Tigris, we again and again expressed 
our regret that we were not with him, and the 
very day that you sent me word of his death, M. 
had been saying ' Don't you wish we were with 
Eighter on the Tigris? 7 I have often before me 
the pleasures of that journey, yet to be made, but 
I know no spot in all the Bast to which I shall 
direct my steps with so much of interest and 
grief, as to the grave of our friend. You have 
already printed much that has been said by those 
who knew him as a missionary, perhaps it will 
not be out of place to print these memories of 
him by one who knew him *as a companion and 
friend. 

" W. C. P." 



334 TRIBUTE. 

From the Bible Society Record. 

ON THE DEATH OF THE REV. C. N. RIGHTER. 

THE PILGRIM AT REST. 

And he is gone, the young, the noble hearted, 
Who tenderest ties for his Redeemer burst, 

And strong in faith, the Word of Life imparted 
To those who for its precious tidings thirst. 

Yes, God was good;* for by his mercy cherished, 
He walked unhurt, where countless thousands bled ; 

And where his suffering fellow-creatures perished, 
The " strong right hand" his steps in safety led. 

Beside the bed where dying ones in anguish 
Appealed for aid to light them on their way, 

And where the weary in their sadness languish, 
He stood, " a gentle presence," day by day. 

I see the failing eye his face exploring, 

Which, like an angel's, beams with lucid light ; 

I hear his voice, God's precious words outpouring 
And holding Christ before the sinner's sight. 

Not the mere form, oh, not the sculptured image ; 

Not the carved ivory, nor the senseless wood ; 
Not the racked form, the marred and blood-stained 
visage, 

With pierced hands extended on the rood ! 

* Mr. Eighter " especially dwelt on the goodness of God : »' How good 
God is : O how good He is. 1 " — Mr. Walker. 



TRIBUTE. 



335 



Not this,- but as a God of rich compassion, 
The trembling sinner waiting to forgive ; 

Eeady to wash him from each past transgression, 
Beceive him to His arms, and bid him live. 

How many an eye, the mists of death o'erfilming, 
Has brightened at thy words of gentle power ! 

How many a heart has opened glad and willing, 
As to the rain, the parched and dying flower ! 

Glorious thy mission in that field of sadness, 
And well fulfilled, until thou journeyed on, 

With constant heart, upborne in Christian gladness, 
To other lands, by Christ already won. 

And as in devious ways thy feet were turning, 
The Book of G-od still scattering by the way, 

How brightly in thy heart His love was burning, 
A fire by night, a sheltering cloud by day. 

God was with thee, when o'er the current slowly 
Floated thy raft, borne on with praise to Him ; 

He never left thee, pilgrim pure and holy, 
In morning sunshine, or when clay grew dim. 

God was with thee ! and when amid the mountains, 
And in the glens, gleamed forth His power divine, 

He gave thee there to quaff the living fountains, 
Sweeter and purer than earth's costliest wine. 



His goodness led thee till thy feet had entered 
The little " Taclmor" where his children dwell, 

And gave thee rest where his dear Church has centred, 
Within the music of the Sabbath bell. 



S3 6 TRIBUTE. 

And then He called thee — oh, that voice so thrilling, 
All that it said we cannot learn below ; 

But that with triumph all thy heart was filling, 
Thy broken words have taught us well to know. 

Oh, what a Sabbath of intense communion 
Was that which G-od bestowed upon his child ! 

And, with his Saviour what a perfect union ! 
Oh, with what brightness the Deliverer smiled ! 

God's glory there was round about him shining, 
His holy presence all the place imbued, 

More and yet more the dying saint refining, 

While round him crowds of weeping brethren stood; 

As o'er her darling's couch a mother bending, 

Lest fright or pain should make the loved one weep, 

So by his couch his Saviour was attending, 
Until He gave " to his beloved sleep." 

Yes, thus He comes, and with his sweet caressing, 
Soothes the dear child that He had died to save ; 

Lays hands upon him richly filled with blessing ; 
And guards his ashes in a foreign grave. 

H. A. L. 

February, 1857 



THE END. 



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